North East Ice

Your Ice Climbing Resource for the Northeast, and Beyond!

Ethics for Climbing Rock with Ice Tools – “Dry Tooling”

We have to be careful. Dry tooling causes damage to the rock. With time, the damage dry tooling causes becomes tolerated, accepted, and sanctioned by some. This will ultimately destroy a rock climb and the experience for future generations of climbers.

Some other articles you may like…

Wrestling the darkness

Wrestling the Darkness in Panther Gorge

By Kevin MacKenzie
Pam-crossing The South Basin Pond - Baxter State Park

BSP is open for winter camping as of December 1, 2020

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Baxter State Park - What you need to know with COVID-19 this winter

Flash Back – Ice climbing in 1986

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Southern-New-England-Ice-Guide-cover-photo

Southern New England Ice Guide

Todd Swain’s newly released book, An Ice Climbers Guide to Southern New England and Eastern New York. A must have guide book for ice climbers in the Northeast.

Festiglace Pont-Rouge 2020 – Pro Comp

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Competition Results & Photos
Panther Den with Waking Cerberus marked

Waking Cerberus

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Waking Cerberus on the Panther Den by Kevin B. MacKenzie

Upside Down at Pont-Rouge

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Not only is the ice steep at Pont-Rouge, it's also overhanging

Festiglace Friday #9

Climbing the loose shale of Pont-Rouge

Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2020

This Weekend! The Biggest Ice Climbing Festival in New England. Don't miss it!

Maidenhead (M7+ NEI5+)

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New and Adventurous mixed route at "The Lake"

Smuggs Ice Bash 2020 – Event Recap

The 14th annual Smuggs Ice Bash - Event Recap

Festiglace Friday #8

It's always good to find a comfortable rest on steep ice.

Smuggs Ice Bash 2020

This weekend! The 14th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash. The Fastest growing Ice festival in the Northeast. January 24-26 2020

Mountainfest 2020

ADIRONDACK INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAINEERING FESTIVAL JANUARY 17-20, 2020

Festiglace Friday #7

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Competing at Festiglace is not just about Ice Climbing.

Guy Lacelle – A Tribute

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it's been 10 years since Guy Lacelle was killed in an avalanche

Festiglace Friday #6

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Great ice climbing along the Jacques Cartier River. Pont-Rouge, Quebec

Festiglace Friday #5

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Yan Mongrain on a variation of Le Tube, Pont-Rouge Quebec. Festiglace Pont-Rouge

Logan Bread

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Looking for an alternative to energy/food bars? Logan bread could be the answer.

Panther Gorge – The Guide Book

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If you want to explore the remote Panther Gorge in the Adirondacks and get away from the crowds, this is a must-have guide

Festiglace Friday #4

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The best way to eat hot maple syrup as an ice climber in Quebec!

The Black Dike and Area Conditions 11-17-19

Angel Eyes did a flyby of the Black Dike area on Cannon Cliff Sunday 11-17-19
Standard-Rt.-NEice-Cover-11-14-19

2019-2020 Ice Climbing Season – Here We GO!

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Festiglace Friday #3

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Competitors compete for the greatest climber award - Festiglace, Pont-Rouge Quebec.

Festiglace 2020

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The return of FESTIGLACE!

Don’t Get Screwed!

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NEice takes a deep look at Ice Screws. What you need to know.

Climber Profile: Shawn Bunnell

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In the past two seasons, Bunnell has been quietly ticking off some of the region's hard traditional classics and has been on a tear recently.

#smuggsicebash2019

The 2019 Smuggs Ice Bash Drytool Comp. at Petra Cliffs. Photos & Results

Apex Predator

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Kevin MacKenzie, aka "MudRat" of www.adirondackmountaineering.com gives us a tour of "Apex Predator" in the remote Panther Gorge
Guy-Lacelle-After-the-fall-Featured-Image-1

This Dangerous Game

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Ice climbing is different than rock climbing. Good gear is never really ever guaranteed and neither is solid ice. - Confessions of an Ice Climbing Junkie.

Finding Big Ice in Newfoundland

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Hunting down where to ice climb in Newfoundland has never been easy. Information on first ascents and route beta, has always been difficult to get from previously close-mouthed visitors
Mt Pisgah big wall 12-26-18

Mt. Pisgah fly by 12-26-2018

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A Flight along the Big Wall of Mt. Pisgah, Lake Willoughby VT. by "Angel Eyes". #northeastice

Called On Account of Rains

Shawn Bunnell and Phil Schuld climbing “Called On Account Of Rains” IV 5+ (M4 R) on a bluebird day at Lake Willoughby VT

Climber Profile: Tyler Kempney

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Just six years ago ,Tyler Kempney, 27, from Carthage, New York, started climbing rock, learning the basics here in the Northeast. Now he's on the UIAA U.S. World Cup Men's Ice Climbing team, living in Colorado and just recently sent M15.

First Blood M11 – St. Alban, Quebec

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I had never been to St. Alban, a dedicated dry tooling crag near Quebec City. My friend Marty Theriault, who lives only 10 minutes from the crag, had several times extended an invitation to sample the chossy riverside cliffs. Marty was about to be deployed so we had to make the trip happen soon. - Zac St. Jules.
Poke O Moonshine

Poke-O-Moonshine 12.01.18

Poke-O-Moonshine - A flight by "Angel Eyes" 12.01.18
Frankenstein South Face

Climbers racing the sun on the Bragg-Pheasant

Peter Doucette of Mountain Sense Guides and Mike Houser racing the sun on the Bragg-Pheasant / Frankensteins South Face, Crawford Notch NH 11/24/18
AMC-2019-Ice-Poster-Featured-Image

Boston Mountaineering Committee – 2019 Ice Climbing Program

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The Boston Mountaineering Committee will offer the 2019 Ice Climbing Program this winter.
NEM Matty Bowman Video 2017-2018

Glory, Suffering, and Psych Reprised 2016-2017

Majka Burhardt on the Black 10-24-18 Peter Doucette

The Black Dike 10-26-18

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An October ascent of the Black Dike 10-26-18

Ice Climbing Areas for BLUE LINES 2

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With the help of Jim Lawyer I have mapped out the Ice Climbing areas for Blue Lines 2 by Don Mellor.

Q&A with Photographer Brent Doscher

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Scrolling through his portfolio, I found myself getting drawn into the experience in which he was photographing.  An extraordinary photograph will take you on an adventure with a single image, and that is the ultimate goal of any photographer.

Fire on the Cote-Nord

"Both of us are in disbelief at what just happened. It was positively insane. It’s the last day of our trip and we’re three pitches up this absurdly steep four-pitch wall above the Riviere Sainte-Marguerite, five miles from the road."
Brent leading Scylla

Scylla and Charybdis

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Two New Climbs in Panther Gorge Adirondacks NY by Kevin MacKenzie Charybdis (WI4/400’): FA Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Laura Duncan, Brent Elliot Scylla (WI4/180’): FA Brent Elliot, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie "Kevin continues to find excellent climbing and adventure in Panther Gorge"

“Danse Macabre” M10

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The first day Lucho Romero impressively climbed and aided up the faint knife blade crack to the roof before handing over the reins. The second, we attempted some bizarre back-tensioned top rope setup, but I was far too chicken shit to commit to pulling on the holds in the ceiling.

Ethics for Climbing Rock with Ice Tools – “Dry Tooling”

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We have to be careful. Dry tooling causes damage to the rock. With time, the damage dry tooling causes becomes tolerated, accepted, and sanctioned by some. This will ultimately destroy a rock climb and the experience for future generations of climbers.

Labrum of Love

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"Watching Bayard mix climb is always entertaining. The guy’s so strong when he’s rock climbing he makes massive, dynamic leaps of faith from hold to hold, bouncing upwards with glee on teeny edges until he finishes the climb or falls off, unhampered by any type of discernable fear. In the wintertime, it’s pretty much the same."

MWV Ice Fest 2018 – Cathedral Ledge Video

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I want to give a shout out to the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest Crew. Thanks for all your hard work and congratulations on 25 Years. I wonder what ice climbing will be like in another 25 years. It boggles the mind! But for now, enjoy this footage I shot with my drone at Cathedral Ledge on Sunday. 

Roped Up: With Zac St. Jules

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“I’m pretty inspired by routes that don’t get climbed much. I think routes that require incessant vigilance on conditions are really cool because they demand focus on something that may never materialize. That just seems like a really sincere approach to the adventurous side of climbing.”
Naked A thread rappel anchor

Make a Naked A-Thread Rappel Anchor

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Steve House shows you how to make a naked A-thread rappel anchor for descending from an ice route. Steve will be at this years Mountainfest in the Adirondacks Jan. 12-14. Don’t miss his slideshow Saturday Night.

Update on the Proposed Skyline Lodge on Mount Washington

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A year ago, the Mount Washington Railway Company announced their intention of building a lodge at 5,600 feet on Mount Washington. Despite growing opposition, they still intend to move forward with their plans. The Protect Mount Washington campaign needs your support!
Doug Millen Climbing early season ice

The Hazards of Early Season Ice Climbing

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Yes, it is great to get that early season tick and bragging rights, but the risks are high for the inexperienced. Inexperienced? Think before you ice climb and have an honest look at your skill set, gear and abilities.

Go North, Old Man!

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Alden Pellett and Ryan Stefiuk take an early season road trip to The Mur des Crapaud Wall in Parc National des Grand Jardins in Quebec.

The Sound and The Fury

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Raphael Slawinski, Nick Bullock and Bayard Russell tackle the Stanley Headwall, just outside Banff National Park in British Columbia.
pinnacle gully up close

Conditions Update! 11.10.17

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We had some eyes on the conditions of two early season prizes on Wednesday the 8th! A close look at Pinnacle Gully revealed some unconsolidated and thin, but hopeful, frost and ice.

Back on the Sharp End

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After a Fall in the Mountains By William Bevans I climbed…

NEice 2.0

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The leaves are starting to turn and the nights are cooler. Soon…

The Technical Traverse

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Michael Wejchert, Ryan Driscoll, and Justin Guarino take New Hampshire's presidential range traverse to a whole new level. - The Technical Traverse.
Matty Bowman on the wet and thin Black Dike Traverse. 2-23-17

Unprecedented February in The Northeast

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Where are we and what's next? Remind me? What month was that? February…

Climbing Dreamline in Newfoundland

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Dreamline (WI6+, 1,260') February 21, 2017 Gros Morne…

Black Pudding Gully

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Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival 2017 Out For Some Exercise It's…
Tom Yandonon on Rhiannon, Chapel Pond

Featured Photos – ADK Mountainfest 2017

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We had a great time at the 21st ADK Mountainfest. We delivered…

Smuggs Ice Bash 2017

LOSING WEIGHT FOR THE NEW YEAR

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- By Alden Pellett y leg plunges through the crust…

Have you been Naughty or Nice?

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Merry Christmas to All This has been the best start to an Ice…

Cog Railway Announces Intentions to Build a 35 Room Luxury Hotel on Mount Washington

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When History Threatens The Future When I heard about…

Central Buttress – Mt. Washington NH

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Just thought I'd fire a cool shot your way to get the early…

It’s about Time, Where have you Been?

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Winter is finally headed our way Last weeks warm weather took…
Layering 101

Layering 101

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Dialing in your Alpine System for Optimal Performance and Protection By…

The Expected and Unexpected of Early Season

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Splashing through the rushing water currents on the trail did…
The Black Dike 10-26-16

“The Dike”, She GO! 10-26-16

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The Black Dike Cannon Cliff, Franconia State Park NH October…
Ice Climbers Guide to Nova Scotia

Nova Scotia Ice Guide – 2nd Edition

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Roger Fage has refined and updated his Nova Scotia Ice Climbing Guide and has generously put it online for free!

The Season in Review – 2015-2016

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The Ice Climbing Season in Review

A Solo Winter

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Winter came late, and not the best of winters, but I had a ton…
Lake Lake Willoughby VT

Solo at The Lake

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UP! Solo climbs the Last Gentleman, Promenade and China Shop…

By Tooth and Claw

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A new climb in the remote Panther Gorge, Adirondacks NY by Kevin…

DROPLINE

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Frankenstein Cliff, Crawford Notch NH Solo captures Jonathan…

Last Call

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"Last Call" FA: Peter Doucette & Travis Weil Jan…

Tri-Scam to Quartz Crack to Post Nasal Drip

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Great Climbing at the 10th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash Photos…
AMGA Steep Ice Tips YouTube

AMGA – Steep Ice Tips

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Peter has ticked off many new tricky ice and mixed climbs in…

Flight into Emerald City

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The First winter ascent of "Flight into Emerald City" M7+ The…

Flying High at Mountainfest

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ADK Mountainfest 2016 - Recap 20 Years of Mountainfest from…

Solo's First Trip to "The Lake"

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We have been waiting for winter and it is here! The ice is building…

Arethusa Falls

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Solo looking for Ice at Arethusa Falls

December UPdate – What the f&@k?

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New Hampshire The beginning of this ice season has been anything…

Weekly UPdate – November Rations

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On the day of the Black Dike ascent on October 19th, I was…

The KRONOS is HERE!

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THE KRONOS, THE WORLD'S FIRST 'T' RATED TECHNICAL ICE CLIMBING…
Ryan climbing some exposed ice during the trip - Alden Pellett

Newfoundland 2015

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A Trip Report by Ryan Stefiuk - bigfootmountainguides.com The…
Pi-day---fred-hillmans

“Pi Day”

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A New Ice Climb in the Remote Panther Gorge Adirondacks, NY by…

Burhardt and Siegel Start off the Ice Season with Impressive Ascent

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The Black Dike October 19, 2015 The first ascent of the Black…

Ice Climbing News

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North East Ice

1 week ago

North East Ice

Winter weather this weekend, June 18-19, 2022!!
This pic from June 9, 2016 taken at 4,750 feet on shoulder of Mt. Lafayette during a rescue of two dangerously hypothermic hikers.

This weekend, below freezing temps, high wind, and icing is forecast above 4,000 feet! Be prepared if venturing out!
From Mt. Washington observatory:
“The freezing line will drop to 5000 feet Friday night and with favorable upslope conditions, the higher summits that are above the freezing line could see some snow showers for the remainder of the forecast period. A few stray snow flurries could reach as low as 4000 feet. Freezing temperatures will result in icy conditions and the summits that remain in the clouds will likely see glaze or rime ice formation. As the low passes through, wind speeds will increase and will likely approach 100 mph Saturday night. Below freezing temperatures combined with increased wind speeds will make the already cold air feel even colder on exposed skin, increasing the risk for hypothermia or frostbite if not sufficiently prepared.” ... See MoreSee Less

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