5/4/22. Things have changed rapidly in Huntington. carter.ley reports “damnation was a little wack.”
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5/1/22. Pinnacle by bowen_zr
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4/30/22. Huntington still going strong today. Most things got climbed today; sadly Cloudwalker is baked out.
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JG and I climbed Cloudwalker on Thursday. I think it was fair. Climbable ice touched down, cracks were icy, and turf was frozen. However, the first pitch ice wasn’t protectable for me, so we took the finger crack of the rock climb instead. We gained the ice on the second pitch, protected by rock gear. The climbing was sensational.

Mixed climbing damages rock. I mainly mixed climb at alpine crags where the damage I cause is outweighed by natural rockfall and erosion. Mixed climbing this route has been controversial though and there may be no community consensus on how or whether to do it. I think it offers more to the climbing community as a 5 star mixed route than a 2-3 star rock climb, similar to Repentance. However, out of deference to the naysayers I’ve adhered to Scottish ethics: the route must be white and wintry looking from afar or icy. These conditions are scarce, but can appear after cold fronts, especially if they coincide with nor’easters.

Our choice was partly selfish, but not entirely. I propose that Scottish ethics are “the greatest good for the greatest number” in this case. Why? 1) the cost of entry (time and effort, I waited 2 seasons for conditions, availability and partners to line up) limits half hearted ascents, 2) it maximizes the quality of the climbing when it occurs, 3) it protects the vegetation, which might be torn out if it’s not frozen. I don’t advocate Scottish ethics categorically (#boltthedike ✊🏽), but in this case I propose they may be a fair standard. They minimize cost while retaining most of the benefit.

Regarding my recommendation a few days ago to adopt ski mountaineering tactics for alpine cragging, Huntington is a good example of where these tactics work in New England. That was our approach. JG and I had verbally agreed that if the rock were not covered in snow or ice we would ski. Skis sped everything up regardless.

Photo 6 credits: JG

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4/24/22. Pinnacle Gully. tylerodellvt reports no running water and quality ice.
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Bender Season Ender: What a season it was! Today, the tools were sharpened and stored and the summer wax was put on the skis. Though I generally stay away from "reminiscing posts" weeks/months/years after an event, preferring to prioritize The Now, the gear room wrap-up process provided me some time to reflect on what a stellar season it was, and I both want to share the energy and share the appreciation for all who were a part of it. Of course, it's impossible to fit it all into Instagram's 10 picture max; though I'll have to leave specific climbs and climbers out, this captures the spirit of the season and I thank everyone who swung a tool or shared a schuss with me.

P1: Newfoundland: Definitely exploring the wild fjords of Newfoundland was a highlight. Here's a photo of my partner Taylor Luneau taylor.luneau on the crux pitch of our day one FA, "Endicott's Wild Ride". A culmination of skills built through the season and over time, one that will continue.

P2: Raven and Glass: It'd been almost a decade since I'd first visited this area with Josh--way tooo long! Pushing it with the encouragement and experience of a Mixmaster like Josh Worley jwhorls really helped develop my overall skills and confidence this season, as well as to develop my general mixed climbing tactics. This photo is my send of Raven and Glass.
P3: Mad River Glen BC Program: This year Dave Knoop and I launched MRG's Backcountry Ski Program madriverglen . MRG's history and lore pervades the Northeast ski scene and it was wonderful to be welcomed into that community and to share the beauty of moving beyond the lift line with them. Photo: Brian Mohr, emberphotovt Ember Photography.
P4: Call of the Wild: For many years, I wasn't ready. For many years, it simply wasn't in. This year, the two coincided and with the comfort of climbing with a trusted and confident climbing partner, Peet Daneen peetdanen, I was able to heed The Call. So good.

I've run out of IG post space. Captions continue in the comments.

#iceclimbing #northeastice #neiceconditions #mixedclimbing #neclimbs #northeastclimbing #madriverglen #northernvermontuniversity #mountaincoldweathercompany #ortovox #voiceofthemountains ...

Knocked the dust the ice tools this year. Nothing extraordinary but it’s always nice to enjoy some ice! With spring weather coming it’s time boats and bikes! #neiceconditions #grivel #iceisnice #campusa #iceclimbing #sendit #getoutside #bluewaterropes #yough #blackdiamondclimbing #vertical ...