Called on Account of Rains

December 13, 2018

Called on Account of Rains (IV 5+) at Lake Willoughby, Vt., is one of the most elusive and coveted ice climbs in New England. On December 13, 2018, Shawn Bunnell and Phil Schuld found it in great condition on a bluebird day. This climb is a rare visitor and never one to underestimate. While the first pitch doesn’t form often, the upper ice is reliable and can be gained via the ledge approach on the far left for an excellent adventure.

“One of the best routes in New England, period.” Jon Sykes – FB

Shawn Bunnell on a Fat (typically thin and run out) first pitch. Much steeper than it looks here - Photo: Phil Schuld

Shawn Bunnell on the demanding and spectacular first pitch. The route is much steeper than it looks here. Photo: Phil Schuld

Looking down the first pitch. It's a long and steep one.

Looking down the first pitch. It’s a long and steep one.

Shawn Bunnell on the fantastic column pitch off the ledge

Shawn Bunnell on the fantastic column pitch off the ledge. Some years, this can be a continuous column. When doing the ledge approach, this is the first real ice climbing. It comes in early but can be wet.

Phil Schuld climbing the exit column.

Phil Schuld climbing the shaded exit column. One more pitch to go after this. Some snow and a few short curtains, and you are in the woods.

* Photos by Shawn Bunnell and Phil Schuld

 

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