Posts

DMM Testing: SLINGS AT ANCHORS

SLINGS AT ANCHORS

October 4, 2013

A great video and report on the forces at work on slings in four different belay set-ups.

In a previous video we compared the impact forces generated using nylon and Dyneema® slings with a dynamic load. It clearly highlighted the importance of ensuring there is no slack in a system using slings. As an example, a 85 kg mass free-falling just 60 cm on to a 60 cm Dyneema sling (fall-factor 1), with an overhand knot in it, generated enough force to break the sling.

Extending this previous theme we’ve looked at using nylon and Dyneema® slings in four different belay set-ups

-DMM

I have always tied in with both ropes and used clove hitches…seems like this is the best way to tie in. – Doug Millen

Passion for Ice Climbing

UIAA Video

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Ice Fest Face Off – 2011

Mount Washington Valley NH

February 4, 2011
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click to see the video

The Winners!

Men’s – Josh Worley  /  Women’s – Janet Bergman

Video by by Julian Rodier – Climberism Magazine in collaboration with Juharo Productions
Source: Vimeo, Climberism.com

Will Gadd – Ice Climbing

Marble Canyon

 

ARC’TERYX Will Gadd Ice Climbing in Marble Canyon from ARC’TERYX on Vimeo.Arc’teryx athlete Will Gadd climbs a thin ice pillar in beautiful Marble Canyon, British Columbia.

Find out more about Will Gadd on his Arc’teryx page:

http://arcteryx.com/Athlete.aspx?WillGadd

"Power of Light"

Petzl_logo

Petzl, the originator of the modern headlamp, today announced the launch of a global “Power of Light” Photo/Video contest, in line with the launch of the new series of Tikka2 and Zipka2 headlamps.

A jury of international filmmakers and photographers, along with the viewing public, will weigh in on the best photos and videos created on one of two themes: “Illustrate the Power of Light”, or, “What Do You Do with Your Headlamp?”

Entries will be accepted beginning November 1st through December 31st, 2009, and the grand prize winner will receive their weight in Petzl gear – a package worth over $10,000. Loads of runner-up prizes are also up for grabs.

Here’s How It Works

• Participants submit one photograph or one video no longer than 2 minutes maximum on one of two topics:

“Illustrate the Power of Light” or “What Do You Do With Your Headlamp?”.

• A Grand Prize will be awarded for the best video and the best photograph. Each grand prize winner will receive their weight in Petzl gear.

• Runner-up prizes include a full selection of gear for a specified activity, the entire range of TIKKA2/ZIPKA2 headlamps, and more

• Rights-free music will be made available on http://video-contest.tikka2.com for entrants to download for use in videos.

• Awards will be based on criteria of originality, humor, quality and aesthetics.

• Winners will be announced in early 2010.

Jurors and filmmakers Josh Lowell, Sean White and Guillaume Broust have created and posted videos to inspire entrants (as jurors, the aforementioned will not be qualified to compete or win). The video jury includes Guillaume Broust, Bertrand Delapierre, Josh Lowell, and Shaun White. The photo jury features Stephan Denys, Tony Lamiche and Petzl’s own Laurent de Lafouchardiere and John Evans. To tip the scales, the public will have the opportunity to vote online.

For complete contest details, visit Petzl’s contest page http://video-contest.tikka2.com. The site features a cool calculator for entrants to estimate their potential winnings by calculating the equivalency of their weight in Petzl gear.

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Festiglace 2007

(c) Doug Millen