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Be My Valentine?

Celebrating Valentine’s Day?  Ice Climbing, of Course!

The U.S. Census Bureau listed ways that couples celebrate Valentine’s Day. The bureau listed household participation rates as: Greeting Cards at 65%, Date Night at 44%, Candy at 38%, Flowers at 32%, but oddly enough,  ice climbing on the traditionally romantic day was not among the listed activities.

NEIce photo of the week February 18

NEIce Photo of the Week shows Laura from Southwestern Pennsylvania climbing a steep line(Wi5+) while spending the day climbing with her boyfriend Tim Anderson.  No candy,  jewelry, or flowers for this lady, “STEEP ICE” was her reply!  To read more about their special day out, check out Tim’s blog: http://climbpa.blogspot.com/

Winter is Here!

Sharpen your tools and get ready

Adams- Nov-29-2009-011

Lowe’s path on the way to Mt. Adams 11/29/09
Photo: Doug Millen

After a good start in mid October the ice conditions have gone continually down hill. But over Thanksgiving the higher elevations got hammered with snow. King-Ravive-nov-29-09-1Gray knob received almost 3 feet, in less than 24 hours and the cold weather has moved in. Mount Washington has been well below freezing since the front passed and the extended forecast is for continued cold weather. 6-10 day temperature forecast. …..DougKing-Ravine-nov-29-09

“General mountain travel will be challenging with new snow over rocks and ice. The ice climbing season is very young so expect thin ice conditions that will make rock gear more appealing than ice screws. If Wednesday night’s precipitation event does result in an inch of rain as the valley forecast’s state the thin ice will likely be wiped out again” more at …..USFS Avalanche Bulletin

Christopher Joosen, Snow Ranger
USDA Forest Service

Photos: King Ravine Mt. Adams NH / Alfonzo

Current snow depth

More weather information

New winter rules for Katahdin

Baxter State Park, Maine

Baxter_south_basin-AOCSolo climbers allowed, no minimum group size

Great news! I am packed and ready to go. Maybe I can find some ice up there.

See the park web site for more information. winter rules and regs and the NEice forum for discussion.

Source: post by greenmtnboy

Photo: South Basin from Chimney Pond by AOC

More info from apaulcalypse:

I just got off the phone with Baxter State Park (not sure if it was a ranger, just whoever picks up the 207.723.5140 phone line). According to the woman I spoke with,

a) There is no ‘gear inspection’ on arrival. You do not need to, say, have every item on a checklist, and the rangers will not deny you climbing based on what’s in your pack.

b) Climbing on Katahdin CAN still be closed down in bad weather. I asked for some examples of what constitutes ‘bad weather,’ and she listed wind chills significantly below 0, whiteouts, high avalanche danger, “things of that nature.”

c) Yes, you can climb any route as a party of two. There is no longer a minimum team size.

d) As far as she was aware, there were no designated start / end times for climbs; that is, you can climb whenever you want. She did caution that is inadvisable to be out climbing after the sun goes down, though.

e) Ropeless, technical, free-solo climbing IS allowed. If you want to hike or climb alone, there is a winter solo camping and climbing form to fill out, along with an itinerary. You can climb ropeless alone or with partners. There is no specific hardware rack required, just gear appropriate to the terrain.

– Also see the article By Steve Prettyman Winter Climbing on Mt. Katahdin