Ice Climbing – December 1986

by Doug Millen

Cover Shot: Charlie Fowler on the spectacular

Cover Shot: Charlie Fowler on the spectacular “Fang”. Vail, Colorado – Climbing December 1986

I was cleaning out my bookshelves and came across some old catalogs and magazines. Take a trip back 35 years to the mid-’80s,  Things have changed a little since I started ice climbing. These publications brought back lots of fond memories. Heavy clothing, big boots, and the heavy tools that would often break. But back then we believed we had the best equipment and it was up to us to get to the top.

IN THE DEEP FREEZE

A commentary by Craig Reason / Climbing December 1986

Oh, Dropline is a grade 3. Let's do that one.

Oh, Dropline is a grade 3. Let’s do that one.

IN THE DEEP FREEZE. A commentary by Craig Reason on North American Waterfall Ice

IN THE DEEP FREEZE. A commentary by Craig Reason on North American Waterfall Ice


The world-renowned

The world-renowned “Repentence”, always delivers.

I have to disagree. Northeast Ice is Awsome!

Northeast Ice is Awesome! And I am glad I am here!

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The Gear

I found this old IME catalog. Have a look at the gear we used in the 80's. The new gear today is like cheating.

I found this old IME catalog. Have a look at the gear we used in the 80’s. The new gear today is like cheating.

Tools

Why do you need a curved shaft? And leashes, you wanted them and you tied your own.

Why do you need a curved shaft? And leashes, you wanted them and you tied your own.

Ice Protection

Make sure you get a rachet with your ice screws. And snargs, you want some but not if you are taking them out. ;-)

Make sure you get a rachet with your ice screws. And snargs, you want some but not if you are taking them out. 😉

Crampons

Do you want rigid or flexible? I want rigid. And Fangs were the best. Some still think that for steep ice, they excel, and I have to agree.

Do you want rigid or flexible? I want rigid. And Fangs were the best. Some still think that for steep ice, they excel, and I have to agree.

Style

What all the cool climbers were wearing

What all the cool climbers were wearing

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