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Smuggs Ice Bash 2017

11th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash

January 20-22, 2017

Smuggs Ice Bash 2017

Kick-off party | Drytooling Competition | Clinics | Slideshows & Speaker Presentation | Raffle | Camaraderie!

Free gear demos from the industries leading brands, clinics for the beginner to advanced climbers, multimedia slideshows by sponsored athletes, dry tooling competition and kick-off party, huge raffles and immense camaraderie in Vermont’s premier ice climbing destination, Smuggler’s Notch!

The goal of the Smuggs Ice Bash is to promote the sport of ice climbing, to educate climbers, to exhibit and demo new gear, and to share a weekend of fun, challenge, and inspiration with other winter enthusiasts in one of Vermont’s most amazing places, Smuggler’s Notch.

The Smuggs Ice Bash is managed by Petra Cliffs Climbing Center & Mountaineering School 105 Briggs Street Burlington, VT 05401 802.657.3872 www.petracliffs.com

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Friday Night Drytool Comp and Kickoff Party

The Drytooling Competition on Friday, January 20th is going to be (take your pick: awesome, inspiring, insane, off the hook, the best use of your Friday night ever, a damn good time)- it’s where you want to be. Come watch as some of the East’s strongest climbers converge to try their axe-wielding hands at hanging on and moving through obstacles on FoamIce, stalactities, steinpulls, and more…

Starting at 6pm @ Petra Cliffs Climbing Center
$5 Entry fee
Cash only for Raffle Tickets
Beverages provided by our gracious sponsors
Live DJ to keep the party going!
Public Demo’s: Drytool Route, Swing into Foam Ice, Climb with Dry Ice Tools
*Interested in competing? Email [email protected] for info. – Must have extensive ice/mixed lead climbing experience.

The Smuggs Ice Bash is managed by Petra Cliffs Climbing Center & Mountaineering School 105 Briggs Street Burlington, VT 05401 802-657-3872  www.petracliffs.com

Tri-Scam to Quartz Crack to Post Nasal Drip

Great Climbing at the 10th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash

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Photo by Tim Farr

Photos From Solo

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Photos: Matt McCormick on the 4th pitch of a rock route called “Quartz Crack”, a bit of a classic in Smuggs. Matt linked it up with what he and Peter Doucette climbed a couple years back, “Post Nasal Drip” – which climbs a small portion of rock up and left from the ice route “The Snotcicle”. Matt and Bayard then climbed the icy corner up, left and around to the top in the photos. The rock route goes up and right to exit.

Bayard Russel of Cathedral Mountains Guides (in green) is at the bolted anchor on the top of P3 of “Quartz Crack”, they got there by climbing the ice route “Tri-scam”.

Photos by Solo, flown by Doug Millen

~ Tim Farr

Membership / Staff Manager
Smuggs Ice Bash Coordinator
Petra Cliffs Instructor & Guide
AMGA Certified SPI, Apprentice Rock & Ice Guide
NY State Lic. Rock and Ice Guide
logo-petracliffs-conditions-2
105 Briggs St.
Burlington VT 05401
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Smuggs Ice Bash 2016 – Recon Report

01-12-2016

by Tim Farr

Smuggs Ice Bash 2016Petra Cliffs

The ice in Smugglers Notch is building fast! With the Smuggs Ice Bash taking place in a little over a week, January 22-24th, there should be plenty of ice and mixed terrain for all of us hungry and deprived climbers to whack away at!

This past Sunday’s heavy rain and thunderstorms that commanded the day didn’t impact the ice conditions quite to the level one would expect. Many of the climbs that were in condition and had been seeing ascents remained climbable. The biggest hit from the storm was to the snowpack. Practically non-existent in much of the Notch, many of the deep drifts and wallowing we are accustomed to by now just aren’t there this year. The heavy rain followed by several days of cold temps that went well below freezing at night have made traveling on the snow quick and easy. Strap on the ‘pons for the firm crust and away you go.
Many of the gullies used for approaching some of the longer climbs are nice and firm making for easy approaches and even extending the length of a few routes that are usually covered by feet of snow. There is still a lot of moving water and one could find holes and pockets where a boot could pop through soft snow, but the moving water is only going to aid in growing more and more ice with the extended forecast looking very good for continued ice growth.IMG_4414

Throughout the Notch there are currently a number of things to climb, though many of the routes still have thin or mixed sections; I imagine this will fill in quickly. Up in the Blind Fate Amphitheater both Blind Fate and Norton-Gibney are in climbable shape and Blue Ice Bulge seems to have a couple of variations possible as well. One can hope that the ephemeral line left of Norton-Gibney, ‘Illogical Hydrology’, makes an appearance this year.
Hidden Gully has seen numerous ascents this season but the crux still seems to be the first 15 feet at its entrance. This year the typical thick bulge of WI3- ice that forms at its entrance has formed into a thin ribbon tucked into the right corner. Pull this crux, minding the top out, and the route will get much better with good conditions higher up in the gully. All three variations in the amphitheater are in climbable shape.

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The climbs found within the Easy Gully vicinity have held on and will be rebounding quickly over the next several days. Grand Confusion, Poster Child, Grand Illusion, Dominatrix and Black Sunshine are all in climbable shape or building fast for those willing to take on the challenge.

Grand Confusion is in climbable shape and the mixed route to its left, ‘Confusionism’ is a great route to climb if you’re waiting for a party on Grand Confusion or as the main objective.

Many of the routes closer to the road are all in climbable shape except for the odd thin or mixed move required with any deviations from the fattest line. With little snow on the ground, travel to and from these routes should be nice and quick.

As for routes surrounding the Ragnarock, Elephants Head and South Wall Areas, all are in some form of climbable shape, but all show evidence of varying states of delamination or require a few mixed moves. While Ragnarock’s P1 and P2 could be climbed, the top pitch seem like it could use a bit of growth. Give it a week with the expected forecast and the climbs in this area should fatten up immensely.
Come time for the Smuggs Ice Bash, next weekend, the Notch should be in great shape to host the flood of climbers hiking up the road to find their intended climbable lines.

~Tim Farr
Membership / Staff Manager
Smuggs Ice Bash Coordinator
Petra Cliffs Instructor & Guide
AMGA Certified SPI, Apprentice Rock & Ice Guide
NY State Lic. Rock and Ice Guide
105 Briggs St.
Burlington VT 05401
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Check out our Blog!
Follow us on Instagram!

 

Smuggler's Notch Ice Bash 2015

This Weekend!

Join NEice at the fastest growing Ice Festival in the Northeast! We will be at the notch road gate Jeffersonville side, dishing out hot soup and flying the drones. Hope to see you there.

 

January 23-25, 2015

Kick-off party | Clinics | Slideshows| Raffle | Camaraderie

Drytooling Competition: The East’s only Mixed Spectacle

Free gear demos, clinics for the beginner to advanced climber, multimedia slideshows, dry tooling competition, raffles and camaraderie in Vermont’s premier ice climbing destination, Smuggler’s Notch.

Don’t miss Saturday nights slide show by Climbing Magazine’s Golden Piton Award winner  for Ice Climbing for 2014, Will Mayo. Local hardman Alden Pellett and Michael Wejchert of North Conway will also be giving some great presentations.

The goal of the Smuggs Ice Bash is to promote the sport of ice climbing, to educate climbers, to exhibit and demo new gear, and to share a weekend of fun, challenge, and inspiration with other winter enthusiasts in one of Vermont’s most amazing places, Smuggler’s Notch. Learn forme some on the best guides around.

The Smuggs Ice Bash is managed by Petra Cliffs Climbing Center & Mountaineering School 105 Briggs Street Burlington, VT 05401 802.657.3872

See more here…http://www.smuggsicebash.com/about/     https://www.facebook.com/SmuggsIceBash

 

 Saturday Night, January 24th, 2015 @ 6pm

Presentations will take place at the Smugglers Notch Resort in the Meeting House Ballroom

CASH ONLY!

$20 for Italian Style Food Buffet and Presentation – Starting at 5pm

-or-

$5 for Presentation Only

Purchase Tickets in advance here:

Food and Presentations -or- Presentations only!

Cash Bar available too!

Smuggs Ice Bash 2011

The 5th annual Alpinist / Smuggs Ice Bash takes place this weekend.

Friday, January 28: Kick off the Ice Bash weekend at Petra Cliffs in Burlington!

6:45 p.m. Matt McCormick presents “Climbing & Culture” – world class photography and video from Pakistan’s alpine playground, the Charakusa Valley.

indoor ice climbing7:00 p.m. Drytooling Competition begins – watch the area’s best climbers battle it out to a winner take all finish.  Presented by Petzl.

Saturday & Sunday, January 29-30: the 5th annual Smuggs Ice Bash, the local’s ice climbing festival at the foot of Smuggler’s Notch, will be offering some great clinics for women, beginners, intermediate and advanced climbers alike, and a wicked slide show by Ian Osteyee at the village tavern, 6pm

For complete event info, schedule and clinics, visit: sunrise adventure sports.com

News 2/3/10

New Climb Smuggs 2010

Slinging icicles for gear, Alden Pellett persevered up a new route (Scotch and Water, WI5X, 300′) to right of Cloak and Dagger during the Alpinist Magazine sponsored 4th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash.
Photos by Jeremy “Rowdy” Dowdy

Smuggs Ice Bash Report 2010

Gadd and Emmett Suggest WI10

Will Gadd – The Endless Ascent – 25,414 feet of ice in 24 hrs. (video)

NEice Screen Savers – The first of many to come. Enjoy.

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Ice Bash Report 2010

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News Report

Report from ch3  / WCAX.com

NEice Forum Report

“Thanks Bert, for another great Ice Bash. Although the temps were a bit chilly the sunshine was sweet, and the evening events at the Brewski were a blast. I took a headcount during Matt McCormick’s slideshow and counted 85 people! Also, a big thanks to all who supported CRAG-VT‘s acquisition and stewardship efforts during the Ice Bash raffle, as well as the generous sponsors who provided the gear for the raffle (and demo gear). Can’t wait for next year’s Ice Bash!” – shredr24

NotDeadYetSmuggsHard, Bold Climbing in the Notch

Slinging icicles for gear Alden Pellett persevered up a possible new route (Scotch & Water,WI5X, 300′)  to right of Cloak and Dagger during the Alpinist Magazine sponsored 4th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash.  It was 10 below that morning but Alden and Jeremy found some fun in the sun and “fed the rat”.smuggsice3web


Photos by Jeremy “Rowdy” Dowdy
courtesy of Alden Pellett

Sideshow Review

Matt McCormick slideshow “Northern Revival” at the Brewski  Saturday was a look at the next generation of Northeast climbs and climbers. I was truly inspired. Matt is on the leading edge of new bold climbing here in the Northeast. You can see the the sideshow next in the Catskills, Saturday, February 20, 2010 at Rock & Snow during the Catskills Ice Fest – Doug

Thanks Burt for your hard work  and thanks to the sponsors and everyone who helped make this event happen. I look forward to next years Bash!

Smuggs Ice Bash 2010

The 4th annual Smuggs Ice Bash. A local ice climbing festival at the foot of Smuggler Notch VT.

Big news? Alpinist magazine has made Jeffersonville its new home and is helping with sponsorship of the Ice Bash this year.

Come Join the Bash!

# Socialize at the Brewski on Friday the 29th, 6pm

# Demos, clinics & slide show on Saturday the  30th

# Demos and clinics on Sunday the 31st

Northern Revival

Matt McCormick will present “Northern Revival” at the Brewski, Saturday Jan 30th – 6:00pm, a multi-media look at the next generation of Vermont climbs and climbers, including ice, rock, and mixed – all local. Free, AND, it coincides with the Ice Bash raffle, arguably the most booty filled, cheapest raffle in the festival circuit (proceeds go directly to Crag-VT, our local Access Fund partner – Bolton Quarry, Upper West Bolton, etc.) – Bert Severin

Ice Bash Going Green!

For more details see the links below

Source:  Smuggsicebash.com / NEice.com/forum