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We End Where We Start

Time to go “UP!”Gothics North Face

The ice climbing season is coming to an end and the lower elevation climbs are melting away. But for the die hard ice climber, the best climbing  is just beginning. The snow in the higher elevations is consolidating,  the nights are cold, and the days are long and warm, Spring climbing in the Alpine Zones of the Northeast is one of the best experiences an ice climber can have. Make your plans now and get out before it all melts away.

Enjoy these  recent photos from “The Zone”

Doug Millen

Erik Weihenmayer Climbs Moose's Tooth

Jay Abbey and Erik Weihenmayer heading up Ham & Eggs Couloir on the Moose's Tooth in Alaska. Photo by Ian Osteyee.

Erik Weihenmayer, left, and Jay Abbey, right, heading up Ham & Eggs Couloir on the Moose's Tooth in Alaska. Photo by Ian Osteyee.

 

On The Moose’s Tooth

By Ian Osteyee, Adirondack Mountain Guides.

At the time Erik Weihenmayer had floated the idea of going to Alaska’s Ruth Glacier to climb the routes “Ham and Eggs” and “Shaken not Stirred” on the Moose’s Tooth, we had just barely finished climbing “.5 Gully” on Ben Nevis in Scotland. We still had a few climbing days left and already he was thinking about the next trip. That’s Erik though; he is really motivated to climb, more than many climbers I know.

So a few days later Erik and I, joined by Jay Abbey, flew up to Anchorage. Weather reports didn‘t look good but we already had the time set aside and the tickets had been purchased…..

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NEIce Season Round-up

NEIce 2009-2010 Round-up

tablets

Most of the Tablets at Lake Willoughby lying at the base a week ago. Photo by RAH.

NEIce opened the season with a new website as it reached the 10-year anniversary milestone, a fact which stands as a tribute to the region’s wonderful ice climbing community.  Temperatures this weekend hit an unusual mark for April reaching above 80 degrees Fahrenheit in New England. While there are still pockets of solid ice to be found on Mt. Washington, we take a look back at the highs and lows of the past season.

This past winter got off the an early start in mid-October but was slow to kick off as most routes didn’t form until early December.

Be My Valentine?

Celebrating Valentine’s Day?  Ice Climbing, of Course!

The U.S. Census Bureau listed ways that couples celebrate Valentine’s Day. The bureau listed household participation rates as: Greeting Cards at 65%, Date Night at 44%, Candy at 38%, Flowers at 32%, but oddly enough,  ice climbing on the traditionally romantic day was not among the listed activities.

NEIce photo of the week February 18

NEIce Photo of the Week shows Laura from Southwestern Pennsylvania climbing a steep line(Wi5+) while spending the day climbing with her boyfriend Tim Anderson.  No candy,  jewelry, or flowers for this lady, “STEEP ICE” was her reply!  To read more about their special day out, check out Tim’s blog: http://climbpa.blogspot.com/

The Ice Season is Off and Running!

Eugene Kwan follows on Hassig's Direct variation of The Black Dike on Cannon Cliff. (Photo by Kevin Mahoney)

Eugene Kwan follows on Hassig’s Direct variation of The Black Dike on Cannon Cliff. (Photo by Kevin Mahoney, IFMGA/UIAGM Guide, Mahoney Alpine Adventures)

Finally, colder temperatures have arrived, albeit a bit colder than most of us would have liked to start with but ice has formed all over the Northeast now. Many of the classic lines are in and the season is solidly underway! Even the often elusive “Called on Account of Rains”, WI5+, at Lake Willoughby has formed and been climbed already!

Millen Machine and Alfonzo are up in Baxter State Park this week testing themselves and the new climbing regulations. We’re looking forward to a fantastic trip report and great photos as always from the duo!

Enjoy, send hard, be safe and stay warm!