Called On Account of Rains

Shawn Bunnell and Phil Schuld climbing “Called On Account Of Rains” IV 5+ (M4 R) on a bluebird day at Lake Willoughby VT

Featured Photos – ADK Mountainfest 2017

We had a great time at the 21st ADK Mountainfest. We delivered some hot soup to the clinics, did some climbing and Solo had a good flight over “Cheese and Crackers” at Chapel Pond. Here are a few of the images I captured during my travels at this event. Many thanks to The MountaineerRock and River , the Guides and everyone involved for the great work they do for the community, and the participants.  Their friendliness and hospitality is unmatched. We can’t wait to return.

Photos from the 2017 ADK Mountainfest – Doug Millen

Cover photo: ADK Legend Tom Yandon getting started on Rhiannon, Chapel pond.



Central Buttress – Mt. Washington NH

Cental butress

Michael Wejchert climbing on the Central Buttress , Mt. Washington NH – Photo: Bayard Russell

Just thought I’d fire a cool shot your way to get the early season psych up.

That’s a new route on Central Buttress that Ryan Driscoll starting working on last year. He, Michael Wejchert and I went up there yesterday (12-4-16) and had another go. Ryan is killing it. We all took turns getting the gear in, but Ryan took it to the ledge on the top of the pitch. Fucking cold up there! He had to hang and warm his fingers up, otherwise he’d a done it. Guess we’ll just have to go back.


Ryan Driscoll – EMS  / Michael Wejchert – IMCS

Cathedral Mt Guids Logo Amb

CATHEDRAL MOUNTAIN GUIDES is a New Hampshire based climbing guiding service founded in 2008 by American Mountain Guide Association certified instructor Bayard Russell, Jr. and now run in partnership with local guide, accomplished alpinist and Piolet d’Or Recipient, Freddie Wilkinson. 

Peter Doucette and Silas Rossi Crushing It on Katahdin

Featured Photo

Peter Doucette on the

Peter Doucette pauses, momentarily to admire the wind-sculpted tentacles of the crux on the “Cilley-Barber” route in the South Basin of Katahdin, Baxter State Park, Maine – Peter and Silas Rossi had a great day out on 3/30/16. They started from a car at Abol Bridge, went up the Abol Slide trail to near the summit then descended into the South Basin three times climbing the “Chauvin-Cole”, “Cilley-Barber”, and “The Waterfall” before heading back to the car. The whole outing took 17.5 hrs and included 20 miles of travel and over 11,000 feet of elevation gain. An impressive feat from two of the best Alpinist in the Northeast.

Source: Peter Doucette and Silas Ros

Pinnacle Gully

Huntington Ravine – Mt. Washington, NH

LTC working his way into the good stuff.

LTC working his way into the good stuff. @greenezo via Instagram


Way In The Wilderness

Kancamagus highway, NH

Doug Millen finding great conditions, and not even a single drip of water on "Way In The Wilderness".

Doug Millen finding great conditions, and not even a single drip of water on “Way In The Wilderness”.

Photo by Jim Culem



Mt. Washington Hotel

Early season snow on the mountain

High and Dry, Mt. Lincoln NH

“High And Dry” ( erroneously named Woodman/Dorcy in my post Spirit, the names of the FA team) is an excellent introduction to the wonderful climbing in Franconia Ridge back country.  The approach up the Dry River is straight froward and easy. Depending on conditions of course. One starts this adventure by parking at the Old Bridle Path/ Falling Waters Trailhead, the same parking lot for Lincoln’s Throat.

In a short distance (.2m) turn right on to the Falling Waters trail. Hike this trail for ~ 1.5 miles until the last brook crossing ( L to R side) and then follow the Dry Brook directly to the base of the slide. The finish of this climb is on the Franconia Ridge just south of Lincoln’s summit, where it gets craggy at the little detached tower. This section of ridge is one of the most aesthetic in the state.

Friday 2.8.13 , on the toes of the oncoming snowstorm, Ted Hammond and I got into this beautiful drainage and slide before it turned into a expert BC ski run. What applies to some bc climbs applies here, High & Dry is best done early season or during a lean snow year.

Of note, this is also a great summer hike. With the climbing on the slabs in the 5.4 range, and many finishing options on the cliffs guarding the Franconia Ridge.

Below is a slideshow of our day, enjoy.


~Alan Cattabriga

A Fool’s Paradise

It’s the ice fest weekend. During this event many think every route in the White Mountains will be crowded. This is not the case, that is if you know what to do and when. The rains came just 24 hours before the official start to the fest, and once again many were lamenting.

Shoestring Gully

However, with the impending invasion of low temperatures, my friends and I saw the opportune time open up for many routes.

The Canadian air arrived Thursday night, with Friday dawning sunny and cold. We decided on Mt. Willard, totally alone excellent ice was found.  Knowing Saturday would be busy we went for the dawn patrol mission of Shoestring Gully on Mt. Webster. The cold was doing it’s work on the mountain.

Upper Hitchcock

The ice on Mt. Webster was in fine shape. Now it was Sunday and time for something long, adventurous and completely new. Starting at the same spot as Central Couloir and taking off left, the line of Fools Paradise fit perfectly. Enjoy the slideshow below of this wonderful route. Suffice it is to say, the start is rarely in, but it is now.



~Alan Cattabriga


Photos from  ” A Fools Paradise” 02/03/2013

Mt. Webster, Crawford Notch NH

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 Photos by Alan Cattabriga & Doug Millen


Cover Photo – 3.20.12

Cilley-Barber – Katahdin, Maine

Derby leading the crux pitch of C-B

Derby leading the crux pitch of  the “Cilley-Barber” IV NEI 4.  South Basin, Katahdin, Maine.  3-12-12

Photo by AOC