North East Ice
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Wrestling the Darkness in Panther Gorge
By Kevin MacKenzie
Southern New England Ice Guide
Todd Swain’s newly released book, An Ice Climbers Guide to Southern New England and Eastern New York. A must have guide book for ice climbers in the Northeast.
Festiglace Friday #9
Climbing the loose shale of Pont-Rouge
Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2020
This Weekend! The Biggest Ice Climbing Festival in New England. Don't miss it!
Smuggs Ice Bash 2020 – Event Recap
The 14th annual Smuggs Ice Bash - Event Recap
Festiglace Friday #8
It's always good to find a comfortable rest on steep ice.
Smuggs Ice Bash 2020
This weekend! The 14th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash. The Fastest growing Ice festival in the Northeast. January 24-26 2020
Mountainfest 2020
ADIRONDACK INTERNATIONAL
MOUNTAINEERING FESTIVAL
JANUARY 17-20, 2020
Festiglace Friday #6
Great ice climbing along the Jacques Cartier River. Pont-Rouge, Quebec
Festiglace Friday #5
Yan Mongrain on a variation of Le Tube, Pont-Rouge Quebec. Festiglace Pont-Rouge
Panther Gorge – The Guide Book
If you want to explore the remote Panther Gorge in the Adirondacks and get away from the crowds, this is a must-have guide
The Black Dike and Area Conditions 11-17-19
Angel Eyes did a flyby of the Black Dike area on Cannon Cliff Sunday 11-17-19
Festiglace Friday #3
Competitors compete for the greatest climber award - Festiglace, Pont-Rouge Quebec.
Climber Profile: Shawn Bunnell
In the past two seasons, Bunnell has been quietly ticking off some of the region's hard traditional classics and has been on a tear recently.
#smuggsicebash2019
The 2019 Smuggs Ice Bash Drytool Comp. at Petra Cliffs. Photos & Results
Apex Predator
Kevin MacKenzie, aka "MudRat" of www.adirondackmountaineering.com gives us a tour of "Apex Predator" in the remote Panther Gorge
This Dangerous Game
Ice climbing is different than rock climbing. Good gear is never really ever guaranteed and neither is solid ice. - Confessions of an Ice Climbing Junkie.
Finding Big Ice in Newfoundland
Hunting down where to ice climb in Newfoundland has never been easy. Information on first ascents and route beta, has always been difficult to get from previously close-mouthed visitors
Mt. Pisgah fly by 12-26-2018
A Flight along the Big Wall of Mt. Pisgah, Lake Willoughby VT. by "Angel Eyes". #northeastice
Called On Account of Rains
Shawn Bunnell and Phil Schuld climbing “Called On Account Of Rains” IV 5+ (M4 R) on a bluebird day at Lake Willoughby VT
Climber Profile: Tyler Kempney
Just six years ago ,Tyler Kempney, 27, from Carthage, New York, started climbing rock, learning the basics here in the Northeast. Now he's on the UIAA U.S. World Cup Men's Ice Climbing team, living in Colorado and just recently sent M15.
First Blood M11 – St. Alban, Quebec
I had never been to St. Alban, a dedicated dry tooling crag near Quebec City. My friend Marty Theriault, who lives only 10 minutes from the crag, had several times extended an invitation to sample the chossy riverside cliffs. Marty was about to be deployed so we had to make the trip happen soon. - Zac St. Jules.
Poke-O-Moonshine 12.01.18
Poke-O-Moonshine - A flight by "Angel Eyes" 12.01.18
Climbers racing the sun on the Bragg-Pheasant
Peter Doucette of Mountain Sense Guides and Mike Houser racing the sun on the Bragg-Pheasant / Frankensteins South Face, Crawford Notch NH
11/24/18
Boston Mountaineering Committee – 2019 Ice Climbing Program
The Boston Mountaineering Committee will offer the 2019 Ice Climbing Program this winter.
Ice Climbing Areas for BLUE LINES 2
With the help of Jim Lawyer I have mapped out the Ice Climbing areas for Blue Lines 2 by Don Mellor.
Q&A with Photographer Brent Doscher
Scrolling through his portfolio, I found myself getting drawn into the experience in which he was photographing. An extraordinary photograph will take you on an adventure with a single image, and that is the ultimate goal of any photographer.
Fire on the Cote-Nord
"Both of us are in disbelief at what just happened. It was positively insane. It’s the last day of our trip and we’re three pitches up this absurdly steep four-pitch wall above the Riviere Sainte-Marguerite, five miles from the road."
Scylla and Charybdis
Two New Climbs in Panther Gorge Adirondacks NY by Kevin MacKenzie Charybdis (WI4/400’): FA Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Laura Duncan, Brent Elliot
Scylla (WI4/180’): FA Brent Elliot, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie
"Kevin continues to find excellent climbing and adventure in Panther Gorge"
“Danse Macabre” M10
The first day Lucho Romero impressively climbed and aided up the faint knife blade crack to the roof before handing over the reins. The second, we attempted some bizarre back-tensioned top rope setup, but I was far too chicken shit to commit to pulling on the holds in the ceiling.
Ethics for Climbing Rock with Ice Tools – “Dry Tooling”
We have to be careful. Dry tooling causes damage to the rock. With time, the damage dry tooling causes becomes tolerated, accepted, and sanctioned by some. This will ultimately destroy a rock climb and the experience for future generations of climbers.
Labrum of Love
"Watching Bayard mix climb is always entertaining. The guy’s so strong when he’s rock climbing he makes massive, dynamic leaps of faith from hold to hold, bouncing upwards with glee on teeny edges until he finishes the climb or falls off, unhampered by any type of discernable fear.
In the wintertime, it’s pretty much the same."
MWV Ice Fest 2018 – Cathedral Ledge Video
I want to give a shout out to the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest Crew. Thanks for all your hard work and congratulations on 25 Years. I wonder what ice climbing will be like in another 25 years. It boggles the mind! But for now, enjoy this footage I shot with my drone at Cathedral Ledge on Sunday.
Roped Up: With Zac St. Jules
“I’m pretty inspired by routes that don’t get climbed much. I think routes that require incessant vigilance on conditions are really cool because they demand focus on something that may never materialize. That just seems like a really sincere approach to the adventurous side of climbing.”
Make a Naked A-Thread Rappel Anchor
Steve House shows you how to make a naked A-thread rappel anchor for descending from an ice route.
Steve will be at this years Mountainfest in the Adirondacks Jan. 12-14. Don’t miss his slideshow Saturday Night.
Update on the Proposed Skyline Lodge on Mount Washington
A year ago, the Mount Washington Railway Company announced their intention of building a lodge at 5,600 feet on Mount Washington. Despite growing opposition, they still intend to move forward with their plans. The Protect Mount Washington campaign needs your support!
The Hazards of Early Season Ice Climbing
Yes, it is great to get that early season tick and bragging rights, but the risks are high for the inexperienced. Inexperienced? Think before you ice climb and have an honest look at your skill set, gear and abilities.
Go North, Old Man!
Alden Pellett and Ryan Stefiuk take an early season road trip to The Mur des Crapaud Wall in Parc National des Grand Jardins in Quebec.
The Sound and The Fury
Raphael Slawinski, Nick Bullock and Bayard Russell tackle the Stanley Headwall, just outside Banff National Park in British Columbia.
Conditions Update! 11.10.17
We had some eyes on the conditions of two early season prizes on Wednesday the 8th! A close look at Pinnacle Gully revealed some unconsolidated and thin, but hopeful, frost and ice.
The Technical Traverse
Michael Wejchert, Ryan Driscoll, and Justin Guarino take New Hampshire's presidential range traverse to a whole new level. - The Technical Traverse.
Unprecedented February in The Northeast
Where are we and what's next?
Remind me? What month was that?
February…
Featured Photos – ADK Mountainfest 2017
We had a great time at the 21st ADK Mountainfest. We delivered…
Have you been Naughty or Nice?
Merry Christmas to All
This has been the best start to an Ice…
Cog Railway Announces Intentions to Build a 35 Room Luxury Hotel on Mount Washington
When History Threatens The Future
When I heard about…
Central Buttress – Mt. Washington NH
Just thought I'd fire a cool shot your way to get the early…
It’s about Time, Where have you Been?
Winter is finally headed our way
Last weeks warm weather took…
The Expected and Unexpected of Early Season
Splashing through the rushing water currents on the trail did…
“The Dike”, She GO! 10-26-16
The Black Dike
Cannon Cliff, Franconia State Park NH
October…
Nova Scotia Ice Guide – 2nd Edition
Roger Fage has refined and updated his Nova Scotia Ice Climbing Guide and has generously put it online for free!
Tri-Scam to Quartz Crack to Post Nasal Drip
Great Climbing at the 10th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash
Photos…
Solo's First Trip to "The Lake"
We have been waiting for winter and it is here! The ice is building…
December UPdate – What the f&@k?
New Hampshire
The beginning of this ice season has been anything…
Weekly UPdate – November Rations
On the day of the Black Dike ascent on October 19th, I was…
Burhardt and Siegel Start off the Ice Season with Impressive Ascent
The Black Dike
October 19, 2015
The first ascent of the Black…
The Apex and Switch – DMM Ice Tool Review
DMM is not well known in the US. When you think of ice tools,…