Sad News:
Sichuan Mountains, China.
Jonny Copp and Wade Johnson perish in avalanche, search continues for Micah Dash.
  
June 11, 2009 - China:
Search called off for missing Boulder climber Bad weather thwarts attempt to find Micah Dash More from the The Colorado Daily
NEice expresses it's sorrow and sympathy to family and friends of these wonderful alpine adventurers whose spirit inspires us and many others.
Tributes and links:
"Another One Down" Perspective from Will Gadd
Facebook: Outpouring from friends and the climbing community.
Video: Huge Loss of Wade, Micah and Jonny in Sichuan Mountains
StarTribune - Wade's parents comment to press.
Wonderful stories at Supertopo.
|
April 19, 2009
The Presidential Range - New Hampshire
Alan Cattabriga "Crushes" the The Triple Trifecta
I have only one thing to say, this man is not "Human" ;-).....Doug |
"Silent Spring"
"Finally got the job done! Super psyched!"
The real praise goes to Ian who was a patient driver and belayer for the 4 days of redpoint attempts and 3 days needed to equip the route. He never bitched once about the 3 mile approach, would never let me break trail and was always full of encouragement. More....
Josh
  
Photo by Eric Eisele, other photos by Ian Austin |
Madison Gulf
The Presidential Range, NH
Trip report
The plan, to hike into the seldom visited Madison Gulf, climb the route "Point", then continue up to Adams summit and down the other side via the Airline Trail to Appalachia. She Go! |
White Mountains NH
Pinnacle, Shoestring and The Throat in a day
By Alan Cattabriga
|
|
Adrondacks NY
The North Faco of Gothics, Grand Central on Marcy and Colden's Trap Dike in a day.
by Emilie Drinkwater
|
Stratford Notch
by Ian Austin
Located in northern New Hampshire, Stratford Notch is a south-facing crag that basks in the sun and hosts some excelent climbs.
|
Foxhole Prayer
By Josh Hurst
Foxhole Prayer is a beautiful ice climb deep within a crag at Goback, split in two by a huge cleft. This cleft slowly fills with ice during the winter and spring, coming into condition late in the season. |
Mt. Katahdin
Pat Cooke and Drew Koff on pitch 1 of the Cilley-Barber route (IV 4)
Mt. Katahdin, Maine -
3/17/09
Trip Report
Photos
Photo by Al O'Connor |
CONDITIONS!
This time of year condition reports are very important, especially to us diehards. So if you have been out, please share the conditions with us. Good or Bad. Thanks......Doug
Condition Posts |
Trilogy’s
Alan Cattabriga, Joe Szot, and Emilie Drinkwater have done some major link-ups recently and given us all something to aspire to. One in the White Mountains, the other in the Adirondacks. Any one of the climbs would be a day’s undertaking for the average climber, but linked together it is an endurance fest!
Full trip reports and photos are coming soon! |
Julbo Eyewear Sponsors Alpine Ascents International with Mountaineering Sunglasses for Upcoming Everest Expedition
WILLISTON, VT. (March 23, 2009) – Julbo, designer and manufacturer of leading-edge, protective eyewear and lens technology, will be providing guides and climbers from Alpine Ascents International with six pairs of its top of the line Explorer mountaineering sunglass for Alpine Ascents’ Mount Everest expedition set to depart March 24, 2009. |
The Cap
A winter ascent by Louis-Philippe Ménard & Nicolae Balan
Yeah well I know, you don’t want to hear about winter and ice anymore, but I couldn’t help it, me and my partner Nicolae Balan managed the first winter free ascent of the Cap regardless of poor ice condition, or plainly not much ice on the wall!
Source:Louis-Philippe Ménard |
Crushing it in the "Can Rocks"
There are few words that can describe the Canadian Rockies, especially along the Icefields Parkway corridor between Banff and Jasper. I guess the word ‘core’ and ‘dramatic’ are about all that come to mind for now, at least in the English language. So this story goes, my buddy, Stanislav, and I make some plans to head north to get on some ice, ice that’s bigger than the 2 full pitch laps we’ve been running on routes like Bridalveil and Ames here in Colorado. It was time for my bitchin’ to stop and buck up for a trip to the looming limestone walls of Canada.
Photos from the trip
Source: Robert Ginieczki www.grizguides.com |
John Henry: The Hammer Swinger
When we started bolting routes in the quarry in Evan's Notch it was a free for all. In two days we had four mixed lines, all with substantial sections of ice climbing. No one was hurt, there aren't any plants to kill, and after the dust settled we had some great projects.
Source:
Cathedral Style
The New Hampshire climbing perspective from Bayard Russell Jr. |
Michael Kennedy named Editor-in-chief of Alpinist Magazine - April 15 is release date for Issue 26.
Jeffersonville, Vt. - March 16, 2009.
Height of Land Publications, announced today the well-known climber and editor Michael Kennedy will join Sr. Editor Katie Ives to relaunch Alpinist Magazine. Issue 26 ships to subscribers, shops, and newstands April 15.
More information
|
| Will Gadd and EJ Plimley climb the 1000' Hunlen Falls
Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, BC.
"EJ Plimley, Scott Simper, Christian Pondella and I just got back from Hunlen Falls, located between Williams Lake and Bella Coola. Google the rig, it's big. We sent."
"It was the best climb of my life for many reasons--people, place, effort required to get it done, climbing (no bolts, all natural gear, full madness on overhanging spray ice), just the full-meal deal on a big rig"- Will Gadd
Source: http://gravsports.blogspot.com/ |
Catskills Ice Festival
February 20-23
11th Annual
This year the festival will have multiple clinics on all the skills and techniques you need to get out on ice. Slide shows on Friday & Saturday evenings featuring adventures from Alaska to New Guinea. www.alpineendeavors.com |
International Mountain Climbing Schools
16th Annual Ice Fest!
North Conway, NH USA
www.icefest.blogspot.com |
Smuggs Ice Bash 2009
Smugglers Notch, VT (Jefferson Side)
A great turn out despite the cold! The 3rd annual Ice Bash was a smashing success!! See the Blog for more.... |
Cathedral Style
The New Hampshire climbing perspective from Bayard Russell Jr.
|
Adirondack Mountain Guides - Nepal trip, a success.
Owner Ian Osteyee leads big new ice route in Nepal, climbing with Tom Drake and Steve Smith.
"Shaugdro", WI5R, climbs a frozen 500-meter flow near the ice route, "Losar", the initial goal which was found unformed. Several other shorter new routes were climbed on the trip near Namche Bazaar by the crew including climbers Mark Arrow and Moe Corrigan.
TRIP REPORT WITH PHOTOS!
|
Alpinist Magazine to live on!
Height of Land Publications closes the deal.
Owners of Backcountry and Telemark Skier magazines have struck an agreement that will continue the high-quality mountaineering publication of Alpinist Magazine. Stay tuned for more info! |
Adirondack Mountainfest
2009
January 16-18
A photo report by Doug Millen |
Ouray Competition Video
Video by Alden Pellett |
Accidents Will Happen
Learn from every one
Kintnersville / Narrows Accident 1-19
Dumb Ass on Discord 1-12 |
Southern locations starting to shape up
The condition boards have been alive with reports of ICE!
Pennsylvania / NJ / MD / DE
MA / CT / RI
WV / VA |
|
|
by Doug Millen
|
|
Celebrate the 10th anniversary of international ice climbing competition. Watch some of the best ice climbers in the world compete!
by Doug Millen
Source: www.theuiaa.org |
The Ice is Getting "FAT"!
Matt Wallace on "Fangmanship" - WI5, Rummy NH
Source: Jim Shimberg / Rhino Guides |
NEice - Ouray Ice Festival Coverage!
January 9-11, 2009
Ouray, Colorado.
Photos, video and sideshows, brought to you in a special section of NEIce. The climbers! The parties! The gear! The exciting competition! All this and more. Catch the excitement.
NEice - Ouray Ice Festival Blog
Ouray Ice Festival Blog - by Alden Pellett |
|
I've been in El Chalten about a week and a half now, and have had some time to soak up the new changes. El Chalten has been growing and changing very dramatically in just the five years since my first trip here, and each time I come there are a slew of new buildings and paradigm shifts in the climbing scene here. Last year I realized that there were just as many climbers here to boulder and sport climb as there were for alpine climbing, which is not particularly surprising since the bouldering is very good and much of South America is too hot for good rock climbing at this time of year...
Source: Colin Haley's blog |
|
In mid December the British climbers Nick Bullock and Neil Brodie established 'Who needs sex, we get hotaches' WI6 100m at Mont Saxonnex, France.
Source: Planetmountain.com |
|
Sharpen your blades, Red Bull Crashed Ice is back! A combination of hockey, downhill skiing and boardercross, Red Bull Crashed Ice will return to the historic district of Old Quebec. It's bigger and badder this year!
Source: Red Bull Crushed Ice Web Site |
Drytool training video.
Backyard fun, have you got the guns for this?
A couple NEIce members built an overhanging hand-crack training contraption out of 2x4's in the backyard in Monticello, Utah. A little cold weather, a case of PBR, and next thing you know - it's drytool training!
Video:Don't try this at Home! |
11th Annual Catskills Ice Festival announced.
Alpine Endeavors has announced the 11th Annual Catskill Icefest for Feb 20-23, 2009.
This year the festival will have multiple clinics on all the skills and techniques you need to get out on ice - from basic skills, to dry-tooling, to gps navigation for those hard to get at routes.
Slide shows on Friday & Saturday evenings featuring adventures from Alaska to New Guinea.
http://www.alpineendeavors.com/events/Ice%20fest.html |
New ice in the Adirondacks!
Matt Horner grabs first ice ascent of "Upper Partition", 5.8, on Giant Washbowl.
Matt Horner, with partner Jonas Morelli, rappelled down the Weissner Corner, Sat., Dec. 14, from the top of Giant Washbowl Cliff in Keene Valley, NY. to reach the base of the Upper Partition corner (rated a steep 5.8 in summer). Horner then led back up the thin ice with bomber rock gear obtained by excavating ice out of the crack in the corner. According to staff at The Mountaineer in Keene Valley, Morelli said he was unable to cleanly follow Horner's lead when the sun came out for 10 minutes and the ice became too unstable and detached to climb on.
Photo: Matt Horner and Jonas Morelli getting it done on Washbowl! |
Stunts from the Past
1930's Stunt Man Video
Lots of good buildering, tree climbing and stunts from the documentary film, Gizmo. |
Plenty of Ice for Fun Climbing
Despite tough conditions in some areas for growing fat ice after warm spells, plenty of people are getting out and having fun!
Matt McCormick leads up the first pitch of "Promenade", WI5+, 140M, at Lake Willoughby, this past Saturday, Dec. 13, 2008. Photo by Ian Austin.
Check out more photos in the NEice Photopost. |
Good Early Season Ice Climbing is Here!
The ice is shaping up nicely in most locations. If you have not been out yet, it's time!
Matt Horner on "Power Play" 12/06/08 - Chaple Pond, Keene Valley NY
Cloudsplitter Mt. Guides
Photo by Emilie Drinkwater |
13th annual Adirondack International Mountainfest (January 16-18)
“There are still openings in the clinics and shows”
This year’s event will be exceptional: we will be privileged to host guest athletes Conrad Anker, LP Ménard, Janet Bergman and Jim Shimberg as well as returning local guides Chuck Boyd, Emilie Drinkwater, Jeremy Haas, Carl Heilman, Matt Horner, Don Mellor, Jim Pitarresi and Jesse Williams, who will be teaching clinics on ice climbing, mountaineering, snowshoeing and avalanche awareness on Saturday and Sunday. Clinics must be pre-registered and they fill quickly, so call soon! More... |
Accident on "Dracula"
Crawford Notch NH
Chris Dube, of Lexington Mass, was struck by falling ice and knocked unconscious. His brother Mike was leading Dracula at Frankenstein cliff in Crawford Notch NH when a piece of ice was knocked off hitting Chris in the head and breaking his helmet. He regained consciousness and was escorted to an ambulance and taken to the hospital for full evaluation. No word yet on his condition. We wish Chris the best. More......
Source: NEice Community Forum |
"Musashi" M12
Daniel Dulac working on one of the world hardest route: "Musashi"
Source: Petzl Videos |
NEice Server Overloaded! Upgrade Required
Well I knew this was coming. The server is starting to strain under the load this year and I will soon be forced to upgrade the server to keep NEice going.
More......
An up Date on the Fund Drive Lets keep it going, we are almost half way! |
Telluride's Bridal Veil Falls Re-Opened to Climbing
Standing 365 feet over Telluride's Box Canyon, Bridal Veil Falls is Colorado's tallest free falling waterfall, and some would argue, one of the most classic and difficult ice climbs in the country. And it has been closed to climbing for the better part of a few decades, with the exception of a few brief openings. More....
Source: Access Fund Press Release |
Screw Sharpening
Time to sharpen the gear and Griz does the best job I have seen and at a reasonable price. Do it now before the real ice comes...Doug
www.grizguides.com |
Quote of the Week
"Well, I'll say this: climbing can kill you, but women can destroy you. There's a big difference, y'know".
Derek Hersey |
The New Hampshire Route
Mahoney, Gilmore, and Wilkinson summit the North Face of Kangtega via the North Face!
"The New Hampshire Route AI 5+ R/X 1000M with a little mixed, climbed the North face to the upper East face to the summit of Kangtega 6,779M (22,241ft). The name came from the sustained cold nature of the face and “interesting conditions” that we experienced, both of which seem common on New Hampshire winter adventures". More....
Source: newhampshireiceclimbing.com/blog/ |
New Weather Outlook on NEice
The cold should continue into December. Still no long term warm ups in sight for the Northeast.
Check out the new Weather Outlook. Weather trends and forecasts related to ice conditions for the Northeast.
Sponsored by Stanislaw Photo
Thanks Smike |
Polycarbonate Bottles unsafe for hot liquids
CINCINNATI—When it comes to Bisphenol A (BPA) exposure from polycarbonate plastic bottles, it’s not whether the container is new or old but the liquid’s temperature that has the most impact on how much BPA is released, according to University of Cincinnati (UC) scientists. More...
Source:Environmental News Network |
Niagara Glen - bouldering access threatened.
According to a story in the Canadian newpaper Globe & Mail, a draft land management plan earlier this year, recommended that the Niagara Parks Commission "eliminate bouldering activities in the Niagara Glen."
Globe & Mail story - access threatened at Niagara.
Ontario Access Coalition |
New Movie!
Play the movie
Alden Pellett put together this audio slideshow to get you excited for the upcoming ice season....Enjoy! |
Fund Drive
NEice depends on individuals and businesses for support and is made possible through your donations. Please help us to continue bringing you the best photos, stories and information on ice climbing in the Northeast. If you use the site and want us to expand our efforts, bring you new features and information - make a donation today.
Yes, I want more ice on my computer this winter - NEice Donation |
New Hampshire boys on Kangtega
Update: October 26, 2008 - Success!! Mahoney, Gilmore, and Wilkinson summit the North Face of Kangtega via the North Face! Congrats guys!
Nepal - October 21, 2008 - Kevin Mahoney, Ben Gilmore, and Freddie Wilkinson
have been at advanced base camp (around 19,000′) for the past several days acclimatizing and staring at the cold, snowy, icy North Face of Kangtega(
22,250
feet)
which rises out of the Khumbu and Hinku Valleys. Mahoney said it kind of looks like Cannon Cliff after a snow storm. The expedition is funded in part by the trio's 16th Annual Mugs Stump Award Grant. Good luck, guys!
Map of Kangtega, Nepal
Source:Mahoney Alpine Adventures blog - newhampshireiceclimbing.com |
Alpinist LLC to Suspend Operations
Jackson, Wyoming — October 16, 2008 — Alpinist LLC, which publishes the climbing magazine Alpinist, runs the website www.alpinist.com and produces The Alpinist Film Festival, announced today that the October 2008 financial crisis has forced them to suspend operations. More >
Source: alpinist.com |
How Strong is Climbing Gear?
Kolin Powick is the Quality Assurance Manager at Black Diamond. A mechanical engineer originally from Canada, he now calls Salt Lake City home. On his off time he belays his wife while she warms up on his projects and he tests the real world durability of climbing gear. Read the article >
Source: gripped.com |
Protect Upper West!
CRAG-VT has recently received approval from landowners and the Bolton Select Board to subdivide and purchase one of Vermont’s most popular and historic climbing areas – Upper West Bolton Cliff!
For decades Upper West has been one of the most highly valued climbing areas in Vermont. With exceptional views and a quiet, wild setting featuring sport climbs, traditional climbs, ice climbs, and an exceptional boulder field, it is one of our most important climbing areas. Read more >
Source: cragvt.com |
GRAVSPORTS
The Canadian Rockies "Climbing Cycle"
by Will Gadd |
Vote the Environment
Iraq, Budgets, Climate Change, Gas Prices, Health Care, Illegal Immigration, Domestic Economy, Abortion, Foreign Policy, Arctic Drilling … There are countless reasons to vote this year. But with so many polarizing issues in the world, it’s easy to overlook the one issue that might seem less important – the health of our natural environment. More >
Source: patagonia.com |
Second Edition of "Climbing Management" Publication Now Available
The Access Fund is proud to announce the publication of the second edition of "Climbing Management: A Guide to Climbing Issues and the Production of a Climbing Management Plan." More >
Source: accessfund.org |
Petzl Explorations
QUEBEC – CANADA
L'APPARTEMENT |
Survey: Do You Support Recreation Fees on Federal Public Land?
The Access Fund wants to know what you think about the often-controversial issue of recreational use fees. Please take a few minutes to fill out the following survey. Your answers will help us accurately represent your interests at the Federal level.
Click here: www.surveymonkey.com |
Mahoney Alpine Adventures
KEVIN'S CLIMBING BLOG
Big Expedition, Fred Hutchinson Climb |
The New SARKEN crampons
The new SARKEN crampons will be available beginning June 2008
Source: Petzl.com |
It won’t be long now, the days are getting shorter!
On June 20th at 7:59 pm EDT the Solstice occurred. The longest day of the year. For ice climbers it’s good news, the days are getting shorter - Doug Millen |
A Busy Month for Turgeon in the Alaska Range
by Maxime Turgeon
Source: Alpinist.com |
New Treatment for Severe Frostbite Shows Promise
Source: The American Alpine Club |
The Crag Rag - June 2008 (pdf)
Featured in this issue - The second annual Smuggler’s Notch Ice Bash
Join CRAG-VT for 2008!
Your tax-deductable donation of $15 or more will help cover the cost of the Bolton Quarry and other local access efforts. Membership info
Source: Crag Vermont |
Vote the Environment Video - Spread it Far and Wide
Source: Patagonia video - YouTube |
It's winter on the other side of the planet
Photos: Pinnacles, Mt. Ruapehu, NZ
EastCoastBastard - May 2008 |
Mount Willard NH - Little Big Mountain
Three days on Mt. Willard in March reminded me why it is one of the best little mountains around.
Kevin Mahoney - Mahoney Alpine Adventures |
Earth Day 2008
Below are a few links to get you thinking on this Earth Day.
http://www.google.com/earthday08/
Leave No Trace
TreeHugger Interview with Y.C.
 The all-things green blog TreeHugger recently conducted a two-part phone interview with Patagonia owner/founder Yvon Chouinard. Topics include growing the company, Patgonia 100 years from now, transparency and the Footprint Chronicles, the myth of sustainability, our "Pata-gucci" reputation, politics, and quality vs. quantity. As usual, Y.C. doesn't pull any punches. Head on over to TreeHugger where you can listen to the interview or read the transcripts.
The TH Interview: Yvon Chouinard
Part 1
Part 2
If haven't already, consider adding TreeHugger to your RSS feed or daily blogroll. The volume of posts they put out on environmental topics is staggering.
[Photo: Tim Davis. With thanks to Sus and Jen.]
Source: The Cleanest Line.com |
NEice Ranks 4th among some popular climbing sites
| # |
Site |
Internet Ranking |
| 1 |
Rock Climbing.com |
71,230 |
| 2 |
Climbing.com |
123,010 |
| 3 |
Alpinist.com |
305,142 |
| 4 |
NEice.com |
344,469 |
| 5 |
Rock and Ice.com |
463,449 |
| 6 |
Trad Girl.com |
858,180 |
| 7 |
American Alpine Club.org |
951,893 |
| 8 |
Chauvin Guides.com |
1,233,925 |
| 9 |
Access Fund.org |
1,237,857 |
| 10 |
NEclimbs.com |
1,536,741 |
| 11 |
Gravsports.com |
1,795,206 |
| 12 |
Gunks.com |
1,819,056 |
| 13 |
Gripped.com |
3,193,846 |
| 14 |
Ouray Ice Park.com |
3,426,167 |
| 15 |
Cold Fear.com |
4,324,694 |
Source: Alexa.com - April 21, 2008 |
Used Pick Contest
The Votes have been Cast
The winners are Sleeve, for the Hoe and Mike R for his Sconces. Great job and both were very creative. Thanks to all who participated.
The winners will receive a pair of new picks for their ice tools.
View the photos – The vote |
5 Minutes with Rob Cordery-Cotter
Rob tells us what he thinks about Mixed Climbing.
View the PDF File |
More: Front Page Archives 2007-2008 |
