Katahdin, Maine 10-13-2012
Katahdin, Maine 10-13-2012
Where will your next road trip be heading? Ouray? Canmore? Norway? If you’re looking to break out of that NH/NY/VT routine but don’t want to drop the coin on a flight out west or to Europe, why not check out the climbing in Nova Scotia? It may be 12 hours by car from Boston, but battling the tides and the maritime climate provides an adventure setting unlike anyplace else in the northeast.
Roger Fage, a Nova Scotia local, has just put out the second version of his ice guide for climbing in Nova Scotia. The original version is available in the traditional, printed format, but Roger has something else in mind for this version of the guide. Instead of sending it off to be printed, he’s come up with the following plan:
“So here’s how it works, we’re on the honor system. You can download it at your ease, and then, depending on your level of happiness (from the quality of guide) and current income, donate to the sponsorship fund on a sliding scale.
If you’re poor/student in debt (but let’s be realistic if you’re poor/student you probably can’t afford to ice climb) pay what you can. If you’ve got more, the guide costs 0.01% of your total income. ie your net income is $100,000 the sponsorship fee is $10…and so on! Or just download it and be indebted to me for life/pay when you can.
Start: Immediately left of Valhalla in the Valhalla Amphitheater
Protection: Stubbies, Screws, .5-3 Camalots
Descent: Rap route
Extenuating Circumstances: Ice was 1/2″-2″ thick at start for the first ascent, first good protection was a Camelot behind an excavated flake at 80′.
“Tiny Dancer, It’s between Plug and Chug and Call of the Wild. It’s a modern mixed route that deserves to see a lot of traffic due to it’s accessibility, reliability and rock quality” -Josh Hurst
P1: M7 Climb 20′ of Plug and Chug than diagnal right on ice blobs to the center of the overhanging rock. Take the weakness up and right to more ice blobs on the mid-cliff ledge. Belay on left in the ice. It is possible to take ice blobs directly up to the rock in some years.
Rack: 5-8 ice screws, standard rack to 2″, no pins needed, 12 quickdraws
Photo’s by Ryan Brooks.
Adirondack Mountainfest 2011
Story Up-Date 1/20/11 from Bayard Russell
True to Mountainfest tradition of establishing new climbs, Bayard Russell, Matt Horner & Matt McCormick established – “Endangered Species” M6+ NEI5+ R. The climb is just to the right of Jeff Lowes legendary line “Gorillas in the Mist”.
We were treated with photos and a video of the ascent Sunday night at Matt McCormick’s slide show. A very impressive climb by some very motivated and committed climbers. Well done. See the video..
Many attempts over the years have been made on this section of cliff . Lack of good ice has always blocked the way. Back in 2008, Matt Horner tried the climb in an after-work ascent where he ended up lowering off his tools in the dark, that was the best anchor he could build in the thin, candled ice (see photo).
See Fifty favorite climbs: the ultimate North American tick list By Mark Kroese for information on Gorillas in the Mist
The Big Wall section of Poke-O. The thin strip of ice is the new route “Endangered Species”. Photo by Jim Lawyer
More on the NEice Forum
Story Up-Date 1/20/11
“There are a couple of things that we did do, and a couple of things that we didn’t do; here’s the deal” – Bayard Russell
Over the past several years, Dan Cousins, Dave Custer, Jim Paradis, and Susan Ruff have extensively explored the ice climbing in Mahoosic Notch on the Appalachian Trail at the border of New Hampshire and Maine and climbed some 40 pitches of ice there. We find the ambiance in Mahoosic Notch in winter conditions to be unique in its wildness and big mountain scale and hope that the area will continue to foster a sense of adventure in those who choose to make the considerable effort to get there.
Mahoosic Notch Ice Guide by Dave Custer
Great news! I am packed and ready to go. Maybe I can find some ice up there.
Source: post by greenmtnboy
Photo: South Basin from Chimney Pond by AOC
More info from apaulcalypse:
I just got off the phone with Baxter State Park (not sure if it was a ranger, just whoever picks up the 207.723.5140 phone line). According to the woman I spoke with,
a) There is no ‘gear inspection’ on arrival. You do not need to, say, have every item on a checklist, and the rangers will not deny you climbing based on what’s in your pack.
b) Climbing on Katahdin CAN still be closed down in bad weather. I asked for some examples of what constitutes ‘bad weather,’ and she listed wind chills significantly below 0, whiteouts, high avalanche danger, “things of that nature.”
c) Yes, you can climb any route as a party of two. There is no longer a minimum team size.
d) As far as she was aware, there were no designated start / end times for climbs; that is, you can climb whenever you want. She did caution that is inadvisable to be out climbing after the sun goes down, though.
e) Ropeless, technical, free-solo climbing IS allowed. If you want to hike or climb alone, there is a winter solo camping and climbing form to fill out, along with an itinerary. You can climb ropeless alone or with partners. There is no specific hardware rack required, just gear appropriate to the terrain.
– Also see the article By Steve Prettyman Winter Climbing on Mt. Katahdin
(GOLDEN, COLO.) – The American
Alpine Club (AAC) today (Aug. 11,2003) announced the launch of a
powerful new web resource that provides outdoors
people with access to the catalog of one of the
world’s largest outdoor libraries.
The new on-line accessible database allows access to
18,200 books, journals, guides, and instructional
videos. It offers several search options including
browsing through the entire collection, or by specific
authors, titles, and subjects.
For example, entering in
the word “Yosemite” brings up 143 listings, with
hyperlinks to more detailed descriptions about
available books, videos, and journals. With the AAC’s
long-distance lending privileges, AAC members may use
the online search option to find items that they can
then have sent directly to their door.
The American Alpine Club
Henry S. Hall, Jr. Library has one of the most
extensive collections of mountaineering books, guides,
videos, and journals in the world. Currently there are
18,200 items, including rare books, one-of-a-kind
maps, and frequent new additions. The AAC Library is also
available for mountaineering or climbing research
questions. The Library’s strengths include Mount
Everest and the Himalayas, a diversity of guidebooks,
the Alps, and mountaineering history.
“The new searchable
database allows anyone to search the catalog of the
AAC library and discover sources of knowledge to help
them plan their next climb, trip, or expedition,” said
AAC Executive Director Charley Shimanski. “It makes it
easier for you to find titles in our library in Golden
than to find them on your own bookshelf.”
This new resource is
part of a redesigned website. The new site is easier
to navigate than the previous one and is full of
useful information on AAC grants, benefits, huts,
policy, publications, and rescue insurance.
generously donated their time and resources to develop
the AAC’s new website. Advantrics is leading
the development of multimedia-based products and
designs for enhancing the presentation of information
on the Internet. Since 1998, Advantrics has acquired
and developed products and services to help its
customers find the right Internet solution.
About The American Alpine Club
The American Alpine Club
is a national 501(c)(3) non-profit organization that
has represented climbers for an entire century.
Founded in 1902, The American Alpine Club is dedicated
to promoting climbing knowledge, conserving mountain
environments, and serving the American climbing
community. The AAC currently has 7,200 members
throughout the U.S. and across the globe.
Contact: Jessica Meinerz
(303) 384 – 0110 ext. 18
by Alan Cattabriga
After leaving a car at the Appalachia parking in Randolph, Tim, Ted, Doug and I are on the Great Gulf Trail in Pinkham Notch by 7am. The plan is to hike into Madison Gulf, climb the route, “Point”, then continuing up to Adams summit and down the other side via the Airline Trail to Appalachia.
Temps are in the upper 30’s but the trail is packed and hard. We decide to leave the snowshoes at the car. ( big mistake ) We figured the only place we would need them would be for the bushwhack from the Madison Gulf Trail to the ice. The approach is packed & the descent would be for sure.
The day is bluebird. The trail nice but all too soon, about halfway in, the sweet trail conditions go south fast. Once on the Madison Gulf Trail it was no longer packed. There were savage spruce traps, very little good footing and to add more to it, we kept losing the trail. The snow is so deep you are up higher in the tree branches, where trails are not trails. Blazes were non-existent.
Our good pace went to a crawl. In some places, literally. Hours slipped by as we lost the trail, again & again. Back-tracking every time to where we knew we were on it and trying again. At last we were in line with the ice and could see it good… we made the straight plunge. 7hrs. had passed since our departure at the Great Gulf trail-head to the base of the routes. Holy crap…
At the ice wall the sun is warm, the ice is huge and beautiful. My feet are soaked. Sitting on a rock, I wring out the socks and let my boots air out for a bit. Next we have 300’+ of ice, another bushwhack to the Buttress Trail then up the open summit of Adams. The ice is pure fun, the bushwhack above, because of the deep, hard-ish snow, is quite easy.
At the Buttress Trail we split up, I head up awesome snow to Adams and the others for the Star Lake Trail & Madison Hut.
The Airline Trail from Adams summit is in excellent shape, and it’s “knife edge” section bare rock & alpine plants. I lounge here for awhile wondering if I’m ahead of the gang. I decide ( mainly due to soaking wet feet) to book it down.
11hrs. 50mins after leaving, we are all down…. what a day! I’d go back in a heart beat too.