More than Easy Gully’s
Dave Rioux mixing it up on Mt. Webster, Crawford Notch, NH
Photo by Doug Millen
Say goodbye to the warm weather. The cold is coming back!
See more Catskills action on his web site – Big Foot Mountain Guides
1/6/10 – Climbing guide Bayard Russell has succeeded on the first ascent of a stunning mixed climb on the Painted Wall, Kancamagus Highway NH. This climb has seen numerous attempts over the last few years but this week every thing came together for Bayard.
Source: Bayard Russell
Photos by Bayard Russell & Kevin Mahoney
Despite the cold temperatures and wind chills, people are getting out and ticking off the classics. “Thin but in” is what we’re hearing for conditions on many routes but still very climbable for those solid at the given grades. In many cases, water is still flowing on the surface offering a break from the cement-like brittle conditions that often accompany the sub-zero temperature swings.
Finally, colder temperatures have arrived, albeit a bit colder than most of us would have liked to start with but ice has formed all over the Northeast now. Many of the classic lines are in and the season is solidly underway! Even the often elusive “Called on Account of Rains”, WI5+, at Lake Willoughby has formed and been climbed already!
Millen Machine and Alfonzo are up in Baxter State Park this week testing themselves and the new climbing regulations. We’re looking forward to a fantastic trip report and great photos as always from the duo!
Enjoy, send hard, be safe and stay warm!
Bozeman, MT – World-renowned ice climber Guy Lacelle has died from injuries received when a small avalanche, triggered by a party above him, swept him over an ice climb in Hyalite Canyon where he was participating in the Bozeman Ice Festival. The loss of Lacelle is felt by many throughout the sport of ice climbing.
Lacelle attended Festiglace at Pont Rouge, Quebec, here in the Northeast for a number of years where he taught more than one eastern climber in the sport and inspired many with his solid climbing in competitions and confident free-solos. He will be sorely missed by all of us at NEice.
For more on the accident: Bozeman Daily Chronicle
Petzl Tribute to Guy Lacelle:Adieu Guy
Avalanche Investigation – Doug Chabot of the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center investigates the avalanche that killed Guy Lacelle. Guy was in a steep gully on non-technical terrain above the climb Silken Falls (120m…
In normal years the Black Dike usually is fat by now. The first Ascents usually happen in the first week of November. Jim Shimburg has climbed it in early October. This is as late a start as I can remember….Doug
Condition Report 12/8/09
Eguide – Franconia Notch, NH