Dropline – March 12, 2012
Frankenstein Cliff, Crawford Notch NH
With the Notch dropping below, Rob Point heads up the super exposed “Dropline” NEI 5.
Photo by Klimbermac
Cover Photo – Ragnarock 3-2-12
Smugglers Notch Vermont
Still winter in the notches. Ryan on P2 of the spectacular “Ragnarock” NEI 4+.
Photo by tfarr3
Cover Photo-Newfoundland 2/14/12
Gros Morne National Park
Featured Photo by Alden Pellett
Michael Wejchert starts up a pitch of WI5 on an 800-foot route in Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland. Stay tuned for more as their trip unfolds!
Cox Cove
With the sea rocking below, Rockytop and Michael Wejchert top out on a WI4 route in Cox Cove, Newfoundland.
Michael Wejchert traversing to the route at high tide.
Photos by Alden Pellett & Ryan Stefiuk, Bigfoot Mountain Guides
Cover Photo – Repentance 02/09/12
Repentance WI5 – Cathedral Ledge, North Conway NH
Mt. Washington Ice Fest guide, Andrea Charest hiking the first pitch of Repentance on a beautiful sunny day. Andrea shared the climb with Rockytop who was celebrating his birthday. I Can’t think of a better way to spend the day! We hope you have many more.
Photo by Rockytop
Cover Photo – 03.23.11
Simian – NEI 5+ R/X
Bold New Line at Poke-O-Moonshine
Ian Osteyee of Adrondack Mountain Guides on his new route “Simian“. Photo by Bill Simes
Photo of the Week 2/28/11
Mate, Spawn and Die
Leslie Ackerman on the first female lead of “Mate, Spawn and Die”(WI5 M4) Salmon River Falls NY.
Photo by Jim Lawyer
Quand l'Diable s'en Mêle
Marc Paquet dancing his way up on the St-Laurence north shore near La Malbaie, Quebec. Photo by “pathbeaudet”
New M8 at “The Lake”
Tiny Dancer
Lake Willoughby, VT
FA: 01-21-11 Ryan Brooks and Josh Hurst
“Tiny Dancer, It’s between Plug and Chug and Call of the Wild. It’s a modern mixed route that deserves to see a lot of traffic due to it’s accessibility, reliability and rock quality” -Josh Hurst
P1: M7 Climb 20′ of Plug and Chug than diagnal right on ice blobs to the center of the overhanging rock. Take the weakness up and right to more ice blobs on the mid-cliff ledge. Belay on left in the ice. It is possible to take ice blobs directly up to the rock in some years.
P2: M8 Start up the flake system to a small roof. Trend right, crux, to a shallow corner system. Once behind the icicles take the line of least resistance to the top.
Rack: 5-8 ice screws, standard rack to 2″, no pins needed, 12 quickdraws
Photo’s by Ryan Brooks.
Endangered Species
Poko-O-Moonshine – Adirondacks, NY
01/14/2011
Adirondack Mountainfest 2011
Story Up-Date 1/20/11 from Bayard Russell
True to Mountainfest tradition of establishing new climbs, Bayard Russell, Matt Horner & Matt McCormick established – “Endangered Species” M6+ NEI5+ R. The climb is just to the right of Jeff Lowes legendary line “Gorillas in the Mist”.
“It’s so cool that, after all these years, the Northeast continues to generate some of the most exciting winter climbing in the country” – Dougald MacDonald
The 2 Matts having a go at Gorillas / Endangered Species earlier that week. No tools left this time. Photo by Smike
We were treated with photos and a video of the ascent Sunday night at Matt McCormick’s slide show. A very impressive climb by some very motivated and committed climbers. Well done. See the video..
Matt Horner’s tools on Gorillas in the Mist, 2008. – Photo by Jessew
Many attempts over the years have been made on this section of cliff . Lack of good ice has always blocked the way. Back in 2008, Matt Horner tried the climb in an after-work ascent where he ended up lowering off his tools in the dark, that was the best anchor he could build in the thin, candled ice (see photo).
See Fifty favorite climbs: the ultimate North American tick list By Mark Kroese for information on Gorillas in the Mist
The Big Wall section of Poke-O. The thin strip of ice is the new route “Endangered Species”. Photo by Jim Lawyer
More on the NEice Forum
Source: Matt McCormick, Matt Horner, Bayard Russell, NEice Forum, Facebook & Climbing.com
Story Up-Date 1/20/11
“There are a couple of things that we did do, and a couple of things that we didn’t do; here’s the deal” – Bayard Russell
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