Cover Photo – Ragnarock 3-2-12

Smugglers Notch Vermont
Ragnarock

Still winter in the notches. Ryan on P2 of the spectacular “Ragnarock” NEI 4+.

Photo by  tfarr3
Ragnarock iceRagnarock2

 

 

 

 

 

More Cover Photos

Cover Photo-Newfoundland 2/14/12

Gros Morne National Park

Featured Photo by Alden Pellett

Michael Wejchert starts up a pitch of WI5 on an 800-foot route in Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland.  Stay tuned for more as their trip unfolds!

Cox Cove

cox cove Newfoundland

With the sea rocking below, Rockytop and  Michael Wejchert top out on a WI4 route in Cox Cove, Newfoundland.

Michael Wejchert cox cove NL

Michael Wejchert traversing to the route at high tide.

More photos in the NEice Photo Post

Photos by Alden Pellett  & Ryan Stefiuk, Bigfoot Mountain Guides

 

 

Cover Photo – Repentance 02/09/12

Andrea Charest - Repentance

Repentance WI5 – Cathedral Ledge, North Conway NH

Mt. Washington Ice Fest guide, Andrea Charest hiking the first pitch of Repentance on a beautiful sunny day. Andrea shared the climb with Rockytop who was celebrating his birthday. I Can’t think of a better way to spend the day! We hope you have many more.

Photo by Rockytop

Cover Photo 3.10.11

Maine Line

NEice - Maine Line
Photo of the week: Climber enjoying the steep 2nd pitch of the mega classic “Maine Line” NEI 5+.  Photo by Kushman

Photo of the Week 2/28/11

Mate, Spawn and Die

1 mate-NEice
Leslie Ackerman on the first female lead of “Mate, Spawn and Die”(WI5 M4) Salmon River Falls NY.

Photo by Jim Lawyer

Quand l'Diable s'en Mêle

59D_Quand_l_Diable_s_en_m_le_MP

Marc Paquet dancing his way up on the St-Laurence north shore near La Malbaie, Quebec. Photo by “pathbeaudet”

New M8 at "The Lake"

Tiny Dancer

Lake Willoughby, VT

FA: 01-21-11 Ryan Brooks and Josh Hurst

“Tiny Dancer, It’s between Plug and Chug and Call of the Wild.  It’s a modern mixed route that deserves to see a lot of traffic due to it’s accessibility, reliability and rock quality” -Josh Hurst

tiny-dancer-3a

tiny-dancer-1aP1: M7  Climb 20′ of Plug and Chug than diagnal right on ice blobs to the center of the overhanging rock.  Take the weakness up and right to more ice blobs on the mid-cliff ledge.  Belay on left in the ice.  It is possible to take ice blobs directly up to the rock in some years.

tiny-dancer-2aP2: M8  Start up the flake system to a small roof.  Trend right, crux, to a shallow corner system.  Once behind the icicles take the line of least resistance to the top.

Rack: 5-8 ice screws, standard rack to 2″, no pins needed, 12 quickdraws

Photo’s by Ryan Brooks.

Endangered Species

Poko-O-Moonshine – Adirondacks,  NY

01/14/2011
Adirondack Mountainfest 2011

Story Up-Date 1/20/11 from Bayard Russell

True to Mountainfest tradition of establishing new climbs, Bayard Russell, Matt Horner & Matt McCormick established – “Endangered SpeciesM6+ NEI5+ R. The climb is just to the right of Jeff Lowes legendary line “Gorillas in the Mist”.

“It’s so cool that, after all these years, the Northeast continues to generate some of the most exciting winter climbing in the country” – Dougald MacDonald

The 2 Matts having a go on Gorillas In The Mist. No tools left this time. Photo by Smike

The 2 Matts having a go at Gorillas / Endangered Species earlier that week. No tools left this time. Photo by Smike

We were treated with photos and a video of the ascent Sunday night at Matt McCormick’s slide show.  A very impressive climb by some very motivated and committed climbers. Well done.  See the video..

Matt Hornor,s tools on Gorillas in the Mist. - Photo by Jessew

Matt Horner’s tools on Gorillas in the Mist, 2008. – Photo by Jessew

Many attempts over the years have been made on this section of cliff . Lack of good ice has always blocked the way. Back in 2008,  Matt Horner tried the climb in an after-work ascent where he ended up lowering off his tools in the dark, that was the best anchor he could build in the thin, candled ice (see photo).

See Fifty favorite climbs: the ultimate North American tick list By Mark Kroese  for information on Gorillas in the Mist

The Big Wall section of Poke-O. The thin strip of ice is the new route "Endangered Species" (Horner/McCormick/Russel). Photo by Jim Lawyer

The Big Wall section of Poke-O. The thin strip of ice is the new route “Endangered Species”. Photo by Jim Lawyer

More on the NEice Forum

Source: Matt McCormick, Matt Horner, Bayard Russell, NEice Forum, Facebook & Climbing.com

Story Up-Date 1/20/11

 

“There are a couple of things that we did do, and a couple of things that we didn’t do; here’s the deal” – Bayard Russell


Too Warm? Beware!

Dangerous Liaisons

Warm spells can create freeze-thaw cycles that are the stuff of new route dreams. But, as NEIce member RAH found last week, underestimating how much warmth is too much could have been fatal.

Now your see it, now your don't!

Now you see it, now you don't!

For the whole story, see RAH’s post:

https://www.neice.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=56833#Post56833

Another close call last winter at Willoughby for NEice member dpowers.  A huge water release: https://www.neice.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6941