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Ethics for Climbing Rock with Ice Tools – “Dry Tooling”

We have to be careful. Dry tooling causes damage to the rock. With time, the damage dry tooling causes becomes tolerated, accepted, and sanctioned by some. This will ultimately destroy a rock climb and the experience for future generations of climbers.

Labrum of Love

“Watching Bayard mix climb is always entertaining. The guy’s so strong when he’s rock climbing he makes massive, dynamic leaps of faith from hold to hold, bouncing upwards with glee on teeny edges until he finishes the climb or falls off, unhampered by any type of discernable fear.
In the wintertime, it’s pretty much the same.”

MWV Ice Fest 2018 – Cathedral Ledge Video

I want to give a shout out to the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest Crew. Thanks for all your hard work and congratulations on 25 Years. I wonder what ice climbing will be like in another 25 years. It boggles the mind! But for now, enjoy this footage I shot with my drone at Cathedral Ledge on Sunday. 

Roped Up: With Zac St. Jules

“I’m pretty inspired by routes that don’t get climbed much. I think routes that require incessant vigilance on conditions are really cool because they demand focus on something that may never materialize. That just seems like a really sincere approach to the adventurous side of climbing.”

Naked A thread rappel anchor

Make a Naked A-Thread Rappel Anchor

Steve House shows you how to make a naked A-thread rappel anchor for descending from an ice route.

Steve will be at this years Mountainfest in the Adirondacks Jan. 12-14. Don’t miss his slideshow Saturday Night.

Update on the Proposed Skyline Lodge on Mount Washington

A year ago, the Mount Washington Railway Company announced their intention of building a lodge at 5,600 feet on Mount Washington. Despite growing opposition, they still intend to move forward with their plans. The Protect Mount Washington campaign needs your support!

Doug Millen Climbing early season ice

The Hazards of Early Season Ice Climbing

Yes, it is great to get that early season tick and bragging rights, but the risks are high for the inexperienced. Inexperienced? Think before you ice climb and have an honest look at your skill set, gear and abilities.

Go North, Old Man!

Alden Pellett and Ryan Stefiuk take an early season road trip to The Mur des Crapaud Wall in Parc National des Grand Jardins in Quebec.

The Sound and The Fury

Raphael Slawinski, Nick Bullock and Bayard Russell tackle the Stanley Headwall, just outside Banff National Park in British Columbia.

pinnacle gully up close

Conditions Update! 11.10.17

We had some eyes on the conditions of two early season prizes on Wednesday the 8th! A close look at Pinnacle Gully revealed some unconsolidated and thin, but hopeful, frost and ice.