Archives

Posts listed in chronological order and by Category


Fire on the Cote-Nord

“Both of us are in disbelief at what just happened. It was positively insane. It’s the last day of our trip and we’re three pitches up this absurdly steep four-pitch wall above the Riviere Sainte-Marguerite, five miles from the road.”

Brent leading Scylla

Scylla and Charybdis

Two New Climbs in Panther Gorge Adirondacks NY by Kevin MacKenzie Charybdis (WI4/400’): FA Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Laura Duncan, Brent Elliot
Scylla (WI4/180’): FA Brent Elliot, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie

“Kevin continues to find excellent climbing and adventure in Panther Gorge”

“Danse Macabre” M10

The first day Lucho Romero impressively climbed and aided up the faint knife blade crack to the roof before handing over the reins. The second, we attempted some bizarre back-tensioned top rope setup, but I was far too chicken shit to commit to pulling on the holds in the ceiling.

Ethics for Climbing Rock with Ice Tools – “Dry Tooling”

We have to be careful. Dry tooling causes damage to the rock. With time, the damage dry tooling causes becomes tolerated, accepted, and sanctioned by some. This will ultimately destroy a rock climb and the experience for future generations of climbers.

Labrum of Love

“Watching Bayard mix climb is always entertaining. The guy’s so strong when he’s rock climbing he makes massive, dynamic leaps of faith from hold to hold, bouncing upwards with glee on teeny edges until he finishes the climb or falls off, unhampered by any type of discernable fear.
In the wintertime, it’s pretty much the same.”

MWV Ice Fest 2018 – Cathedral Ledge Video

I want to give a shout out to the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest Crew. Thanks for all your hard work and congratulations on 25 Years. I wonder what ice climbing will be like in another 25 years. It boggles the mind! But for now, enjoy this footage I shot with my drone at Cathedral Ledge on Sunday. 

Roped Up: With Zac St. Jules

“I’m pretty inspired by routes that don’t get climbed much. I think routes that require incessant vigilance on conditions are really cool because they demand focus on something that may never materialize. That just seems like a really sincere approach to the adventurous side of climbing.”

Naked A thread rappel anchor

Make a Naked A-Thread Rappel Anchor

Steve House shows you how to make a naked A-thread rappel anchor for descending from an ice route.

Steve will be at this years Mountainfest in the Adirondacks Jan. 12-14. Don’t miss his slideshow Saturday Night.

Update on the Proposed Skyline Lodge on Mount Washington

A year ago, the Mount Washington Railway Company announced their intention of building a lodge at 5,600 feet on Mount Washington. Despite growing opposition, they still intend to move forward with their plans. The Protect Mount Washington campaign needs your support!

Doug Millen Climbing early season ice

The Hazards of Early Season Ice Climbing

Yes, it is great to get that early season tick and bragging rights, but the risks are high for the inexperienced. Inexperienced? Think before you ice climb and have an honest look at your skill set, gear and abilities.