North East Ice
  • Forums / Reports
  • Photos
  • Video
  • Weather
  • E-Guide
  • Gear
  • UP
  • Search
  • Menu
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Rss
  • Maps
  • Access
  • Grades
  • Guides
  • Tips
  • Videos
  • New Climbs

E-Guide

Your information resource for Ice Climbing in the Northeast




Scroll, Zoom and Click Icons for Information and Driving Directions

TitleDescription
Adirondacks

Area Map for Blue Lines 2

Blue Line 2 by Don Mellor

Adirondack Climbers Coalition

Auburn Ice Canyon

 Mountain Project Description

Baxter State Park

Detail Map of the Area

www.Baxterstatepark.org

Winter Use Map - pdf

  • Big Wall Fun 
  • Early Season Luck On Katahdin
  • Katahdin Tales
  • Mt. Katahdin Maine – A trip Report
Camden

Barrett's Cove Cliff

Catskills

One of the most overlooked areas for hard ice and mixed climbing in the Northeast. You just have to know where you are going, and have the weather with you.

Detail Area Map

 

Champney Falls

A very popular practice and top-roping area. Expect crowds on the weekend. The 1.5-mile approach is easy and usually well packed. When you reach the falls area take the spur trail to the left into the chasm.

Park in the parking lot on the south side of the road.

 

Chute Montmorency

A big wide waterfall area with a verity of ice climbs from WI2 to WI5 and 40m to 120m in height. Easy access and a good area to learn to ice climb. 

Dixville Notch

Parasol Gully WI2+

A classic north country climb. The parasol can be huge!

Park at the 2nd pull-off below the visible climb on the left after entering the notch from the south.

 

Evens Notch

Drive Rt 113 north towards Evans Notch and park off to the side where possible at the entrance to the Basin Campground. Hike/ Ski into the notch, climbs are on the left at the top of the notch.

Franconia Notch

The premier alpine climbing area of New England. Home of Cannon cliff and the legendary ice climb "The Black Dike". 

 Detailed Map and Information

 The Notches by Jon Sykes

 

Frankenstein Cliff

 With an easy approach and many climbs of all grades, this area receives a lot of traffic. Climbs are 1-2 pitches in length with simple descents.

Grafton Notch

This area contains a number of quality ice climbs. It has been a favorite destination for Maine ice climbers.

Grand Falls

On the TCH highway take the Grand Falls exit just after you cross the Saint John River. You are now on Madawaska Rd. Drive past the mall etc., and the falls are obvious on the right. At the intersection near the bridge, go straight and head up the hill onto Tobic Road for 200m, and park at the Caisse Populaire. Access the gorge via the "Needs Convenience Store" parking lot. A 2 minute roadside scramble takes you to the edge, and a 60m rappel is necessary to get into the gorge.

Source Joe Kennedy, Newbrunswick Ice Climbing 

Dave Peabody climbing at Grand Falls - Photo by Fred Berube

 Guide Book by Joe Kennedy (pdf)

Grand Jardins

 www.escaladequebec.com - Climbing web site (French)

 Rock Climbing Guide for the area (PDF)

 Update 2016 - Guide to Quebec Ice Falls & Mixed Lines

  • Trip Report - by Alden Pellett

 

Kinsman Notch

 Some good climbs 70' to 100' in length with an easy approach. Head to the obvious cliff area from the parking. This area is popular and can be crowded sometimes on holidays and weekends.

Park on the eastbound side of the road near a yellow diamond road sign. Allow room for traffic and snow plows. During a snowstorm is not recommended to park on the side of the road. You could be towed.

Lake Willoughby

Once described as "the best ice climbing crag on the planet", this area has abundant hardcore ice climbs next to the road. This is the Crown Jule of northeast ice climbing. "Once I found this area,  I did not want to climb anywhere else. I spent the next 4 years climbing there every weekend" (Doug Millen)

Detail map of Lake Willoughby

 

 

 

Mont Pinacle

Park at the hikers parking lot near the fire station where Chemin May meets Chemin Allard near Lac Lyster. Walk and follow the Mont Pinacle Sentier signs up the road (300') to the trailhead

! Do not park at the end of Chemin Allard. You could be towed

Approach: Use the Mont Pinacle hiking trails, and the maintained hiker access for the rock routes. It's about a 25 minutes hike. Follow the main trail until a well traveled climber's trail breaks off right down towards the lake and cliff.

Mount Kineo

The classic ice climb Maine Line WI5+ is located here

Mount Webster

This is the parking area for Mount Webster. It is a plowed pullout on the west side of rt 302. Follow the railroad tracks south. Climbs on your right.

Mount- Saint - Pierre

Mount-Saint-Pierre offers great climbing. Mixed gully's on Mt St Pierre and hard waterfall ice right off the road. Also up the river is Le petit Willoughby.

Corneille - 75m 5+ 

Mount- Saint - Pierre

New Brunswick

Welsford - Cochrane Lane

A well-known rock climbing area that also offers a few great ice climbs. The area has easy access and it can be viewed from the highway.

Cochrane Lane is 1.6 km south of Welsford, to the east. Drive almost to the end of the lane, and park near a small gravel pit before the farm. Hike across the field, and follow the trail to the ice (20 minutes).

 Guidebook by Joe Kennedy (pdf)

* Source - Joe Kennedys ice guide

 

New Found Lake

A good number of reliable climbs close to the road from WI3 to WI5, one pitch in length.

There is a pull out just before the road narrows sign coming from the north.

"""""""

Nova Scotia

Ice Climbers guide to Nova Sctia - PDF

Painted Walls

Home to the most beautiful ice climb in the northeast, Way in the Wilderness WI5. With its southern exposure, you need cloudy and cold weather to bring it in.

Cross the bridge and ski, snowshoe or hike on the trail on your left just after the bridge. Head west and then leave the trail when the cliff is in sight and head up a to the cliff.

 Park in the Albany Covered Bridge parking lot on the north of the main road.

Parc des Hautes-Gorges

La Pomme d'or

The most sought-after ice climb in Quebec.   A true test piece for the aspiring ice climber.

 New rules to access La Pomme d’Or

Perce - QB

A great place to stop on your way around the peninsula. Many good climbs in the area. This area has a marine environment and climbs takes some time to freeze. Mid to late winter is best.

Photo of Le Cannelloni du cure 

One of the mega classics ice climbs in the area - Doug Millen climbing / Photo by Fred Bieber

 

Pont-Rouge

Park on the side of the road at the edge of the field just before the houses coming from the east. You cannot leave your car on the side of the road at night or when there is low visibility (heavy snow/rain). If possible leave a note saying you're climbing. Cross the field and find a wood staircase to the river. Be careful not to be too far west.

 Secteur gauche (ecole et amphitheatre)

Update 2016 - Guide to Quebec Icefalls and Mixed Lanes

Presidential Range

 The Presidential range has the highest mountains in the Northeast and some of the harshest conditions. Be prepared!

Detailed Map of the Presidential Range

Rumney

Good climbing area but with its low elevation and south facing cliffs it takes extended cold weather to bring it in. But when it is in, it is great!

Park in the plowed out parking lot on the north side of Buffalo Rd.

Saint-Alban

A great mixed climbing area. The climbs range fron M5 - M11 and 25 to 60 ft in height. This area was once used as a pre-comp for the final Competition at Festiglace.

Parking is at the Portneuf Natural Regional Park. Take the obvious trail downstream to where the trail splits. Turn left to stay with the river. There should be a sign that says "Escalade" with an arrow. In about 3 minutes, you will come to the central wall.

 Area Guide - Dr. Topo (pdf)

 

Salmon River Gorge

Sign In Sheet 

Detail and Information Map

Slappin' The Salmon by Jim Lawyer -pdf

Access Restrictions

Shell Pond

Excellent area with good climbs away from the crowds WI3-5. The Shell Pond road is Private property, please respect the owner. If the road is plowed drive to the gate before the stone house. Please use the fields to the south to avoid walking through the yard.  Head east to the cliff.

Smugglers Notch

Detail And Information Map

Stratford Notch

 Area info and photos by Ian Austin

Ten Mile Pond - NF

Cholesterol Wall

  • Newfoundland Mixed Project
  • The Cholesterol Wall: Two New Routes

 

  • Lard Tunderin’ Jaysus, Der’s A Lotta Ice Up Der B’ys!
  • Newfoundland Ice 2015 - A Trip Report
  • Newfoundland Ice 2012 - A Trip Report
The Gap

Hornbecks Gorge

The Narrows

Ice Climbing Pennsylvania by Rob Giniecki

Western Brook Pond - NF

Pissing Mare Falls

  • Climbing Dreamline in Newfoundland

Other NEice articles

  • Lard Tunderin’ Jaysus, Der’s A Lotta Ice Up Der B’ys!
  • Newfoundland 2015
  • Road Trip – Newfoundland Ice 2012
  • Kickin' Ice in Newfie

Get Directions

  show options hide options


Fetching directions......
Reset directions
Print directions



 = Areas with a detailed map and more information

* Markers are placed as close as we can figure to the cliff or parking. Zoom in for detail, turn on satellite view for a bird’s eye view of the area. Please send corrections with GPS locations to [email protected]

To help with e-guide send email to [email protected]
New Data Entry Form  (password protected)

Look, feel and interface (c) NEice.com 2018

A Full-Service Lodging and Guiding Center

Related Posts

The Event Horizon

Posted: January 31, 2019

A fantastic free variation to a rare visitor on the big wall of Mt. Pisgah, Lake Willoughby VT.

0 comments

Apex Predator

Posted: January 15, 2019

Kevin MacKenzie, aka “MudRat” of www.adirondackmountaineering.com gives us a tour of “Apex Predator” in the remote Panther Gorge

0 comments
Diagonal Featured Image

Diagonal

Posted: January 9, 2019

A great view of the spectacular “Diagonal” (WI 5 5.6) during the 2018 Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest.

0 comments

Finding Big Ice in Newfoundland

Posted: January 3, 2019

Hunting down where to ice climb in Newfoundland has never been easy. Information on first ascents and route beta, has always been difficult to get from previously close-mouthed visitors

0 comments
Poke O Moonshine

Poke-O-Moonshine 12.01.18

Posted: December 4, 2018

Poke-O-Moonshine – A flight by “Angel Eyes” 12.01.18

0 comments

Ice Climbing Areas for BLUE LINES 2

Posted: October 22, 2018

With the help of Jim Lawyer I have mapped out the Ice Climbing areas for Blue Lines 2 by Don Mellor.

1 comment
The NEice ArchivesAccess to all the NEice Articles

RSS Recent Forum Discussions

  • Easy approach in Smuggs
  • Nova Scotia Ice and Mixed
  • Ups and Downs in the Weather
  • This Dangerous Game
  • Finding Big Ice in Newfoundland
  • Steve Charest Critically Injured 12-28-18
  • Smuggs Ice Bash 2019 - New Location!
  • NEice Annual Fund Drive 2018
  • Weather Forcasting - GFS
  • Craziest Linkups
  • repair material for old Scarpa Inverno boot cuff

Recent Comments on Articles

  • Positive Thinking and The Waterfall - North East Ice on adkmountainfest2019
  • Ben on This Dangerous Game
  • Panther Gorge - Apex Predator WI4 - North East Ice on Ice Climbing Areas for BLUE LINES 2
  • Ben Carlson on This Dangerous Game
  • Rick Sharpless on This Dangerous Game
  • Tracy Lariviere on This Dangerous Game
  • Alden P on This Dangerous Game
  • Derek Doucet on This Dangerous Game
  • Olof Dallner on This Dangerous Game

Categories

  • Ambassadors
  • Climber Profile
  • Conditions
  • e-guide
  • Early Season Ice
  • Events
  • Featured Photos
  • Featured Stories
  • Front Page
  • Gear Reviews
  • How to Climb Ice
  • Humor
  • Ice Climbing News
  • Long Days
  • New Ice Climbs
  • Teck Tips
  • The Black Dike
  • Trip Reports
  • Uncategorized
  • UP
  • Video
  • Video – Featured

North East Ice

Your ice climbing connection for New England, the Northeast and Beyond!

[email protected]

Help

Advertise

Contribute to the Site

Make a Donation

 

Categories

  • Ambassadors
  • Climber Profile
  • Conditions
  • e-guide
  • Early Season Ice
  • Events
  • Featured Photos
  • Featured Stories
  • Front Page
  • Gear Reviews
  • How to Climb Ice
  • Humor
  • Ice Climbing News
  • Long Days
  • New Ice Climbs
  • Teck Tips
  • The Black Dike
  • Trip Reports
  • Uncategorized
  • UP
  • Video
  • Video – Featured

Tags

adirondacks Alden Pellett Alpine bayard bayard russell catskills climbing Conditions crawford early season ice endangered species festival Harvard Cabin ice ice climbing ice festival katahdin Kevin Mahoney lake willoughby maine matt mccormick mixed mountainfest Mount Washington mt mt washington NEice neice.com New England newfoundland nh northeast notch ny ouray petzl photo quebec ryan stefiuk smuggs ice bash steve house the black dike trip report Video vt

Administration Area

  • Log in
  • Entries RSS
  • Comments RSS
  • WordPress.org
© Copyright - North East Ice / NEice.com - powered by Enfold WordPress Theme
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Rss
  • Forums / Reports
  • Photos
  • Video
  • Weather
  • E-Guide
  • Gear
  • UP
Scroll to top