Your information resource for Ice Climbing in the Northeast
Ice Climbing Areas
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|Auburn Ice Canyon|
|Baxter State Park|
Barrett's Cove Cliff
One of the most overlooked areas for hard ice and mixed climbing in the Northeast. You just have to know where you are going, and have the weather with you.
A very popular practice and top-roping area. Expect crowds on the weekend. The 1.5-mile approach is easy and usually well packed. When you reach the falls area take the spur trail to the left into the chasm.
Park in the parking lot on the south side of the road.
A big wide waterfall area with a verity of ice climbs from WI2 to WI5 and 40m to 120m in height. Easy access and a good area to learn to ice climb.
A classic north country climb. The parasol can be huge!
The premier alpine climbing area of New England. Home of Cannon cliff and the legendary ice climb "The Black Dike".
With an easy approach and many climbs of all grades, this area receives a lot of traffic. Climbs are 1-2 pitches in length with simple descents.
This area contains a number of quality ice climbs. It has been a favorite destination for Maine ice climbers.
On the TCH highway take the Grand Falls exit just after you cross the Saint John River. You are now on Madawaska Rd. Drive past the mall etc., and the falls are obvious on the right. At the intersection near the bridge, go straight and head up the hill onto Tobic Road for 200m, and park at the Caisse Populaire. Access the gorge via the "Needs Convenience Store" parking lot. A 2 minute roadside scramble takes you to the edge, and a 60m rappel is necessary to get into the gorge.
Source Joe Kennedy, Newbrunswick Ice Climbing
Dave Peabody climbing at Grand Falls - Photo by Fred Berube
www.escaladequebec.com - Climbing web site (French)
Some good climbs 70' to 100' in length with an easy approach. Head to the obvious cliff area from the parking. This area is popular and can be crowded sometimes on holidays and weekends.
Park on the eastbound side of the road near a yellow diamond road sign. Allow room for traffic and snow plows. During a snowstorm is not recommended to park on the side of the road. You could be towed.
Once described as "the best ice climbing crag on the planet", this area has abundant hardcore ice climbs next to the road. This is the Crown Jule of northeast ice climbing. "Once I found this area, I did not want to climb anywhere else. I spent the next 4 years climbing there every weekend" (Doug Millen)
Park at the hikers parking lot near the fire station where Chemin May meets Chemin Allard near Lac Lyster. Walk and follow the Mont Pinacle Sentier signs up the road (300') to the trailhead
! Do not park at the end of Chemin Allard. You could be towed
Approach: Use the Mont Pinacle hiking trails, and the maintained hiker access for the rock routes. It's about a 25 minutes hike. Follow the main trail until a well traveled climber's trail breaks off right down towards the lake and cliff.
This is the parking area for Mount Webster. It is a plowed pullout on the west side of rt 302. Follow the railroad tracks south. Climbs on your right.
|Mount- Saint - Pierre|
Mount-Saint-Pierre offers great climbing. Mixed gully's on Mt St Pierre and hard waterfall ice right off the road. Also up the river is Le petit Willoughby.
Welsford - Cochrane Lane
A well-known rock climbing area that also offers a few great ice climbs. The area has easy access and it can be viewed from the highway.
Cochrane Lane is 1.6 km south of Welsford, to the east. Drive almost to the end of the lane, and park near a small gravel pit before the farm. Hike across the field, and follow the trail to the ice (20 minutes).
* Source - Joe Kennedys ice guide
|New Found Lake|
Home to the most beautiful ice climb in the northeast, Way in the Wilderness WI5. With its southern exposure, you need cloudy and cold weather to bring it in.
Cross the bridge and ski, snowshoe or hike on the trail on your left just after the bridge. Head west and then leave the trail when the cliff is in sight and head up a to the cliff.
Park in the Albany Covered Bridge parking lot on the north of the main road.
|Parc des Hautes-Gorges|
La Pomme d'or
The most sought-after ice climb in Quebec. A true test piece for the aspiring ice climber.
|Perce - QB|
A great place to stop on your way around the peninsula. Many good climbs in the area. This area has a marine environment and climbs takes some time to freeze. Mid to late winter is best.
One of the mega classics ice climbs in the area - Doug Millen climbing / Photo by Fred Bieber
Park on the side of the road at the edge of the field just before the houses coming from the east. You cannot leave your car on the side of the road at night or when there is low visibility (heavy snow/rain). If possible leave a note saying you're climbing. Cross the field and find a wood staircase to the river. Be careful not to be too far west.
The Presidential range has the highest mountains in the Northeast and some of the harshest conditions. Be prepared!
Good climbing area but with its low elevation and south facing cliffs it takes extended cold weather to bring it in. But when it is in, it is great!
A great mixed climbing area. The climbs range fron M5 - M11 and 25 to 60 ft in height. This area was once used as a pre-comp for the final Competition at Festiglace.
Parking is at the Portneuf Natural Regional Park. Take the obvious trail downstream to where the trail splits. Turn left to stay with the river. There should be a sign that says "Escalade" with an arrow. In about 3 minutes, you will come to the central wall.
|Salmon River Gorge|
Excellent area with good climbs away from the crowds WI3-5. The Shell Pond road is Private property, please respect the owner. If the road is plowed drive to the gate before the stone house. Please use the fields to the south to avoid walking through the yard. Head east to the cliff.
|Ten Mile Pond - NF|
|Western Brook Pond - NF|
Pissing Mare Falls
Other NEice articles
= Areas with a detailed map and more information
* Markers are placed as close as we can figure to the cliff or parking. Zoom in for detail, turn on satellite view for a bird’s eye view of the area. Please send corrections with GPS locations to [email protected]neice.com
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