Harvard Cabin – Work Weekend

October 14-16, 2016

You’re Invited! – Click Here to Sign-Up

Harvard Cabin Mountaineers,

Hope everyone had fun and safe summer season. Marcia and I are currently traveling east towards New Hampshire. Having left Moab, Utah a few days ago we are on course for a just-in-time arrival to the 2016 Harvard Cabin Work Weekend set to kick-off on Friday Night, October 14th. If you are in the area and feel like a some Fall tramping on the rock pile and seeing the cabin in another season you are invited to stop-by, say hi, and lend a hand.

If you are interested in joining us for the weekend you can sign-up using the form linked above. Enter your name on the lower portion of the the form to let the club know how many to expect. You can ignore the travel/carpooling logistics info pertaining to club members traveling from Cambridge. That said, If you are in the Boston Area and are interested in carpooling, you may be in luck. Alternatively, you can reply here and let me know. Keep in mind, I’ll be at the cabin Friday Night and away from e-mail.

Sorry for the short notice. I really should have sent out this e-mail weeks ago. It’s looking like it will be a fun and very productive weekend. If we get to see some of you it will only add to the fun. Marcia and I will be around the cabin off and on throughout the remainder of the Fall, so if you can’t make it this weekend because you already have sending plans, we might need some more help in the coming weeks. Please let me know if you are interested.

That’s all for now from a congested interstate somewhere near Columbus, OH….this 4G stuff is really cool and really fast….like, 65 MPH all day!!! 14 more hours to the trail head! Hope to see some of you. If not, get psyched for snow and ice and we’ll see you this Winter!

As always, thanks for reading and keeping the Harvard Cabin warm and well!

Rich Palatino
Harvard Cabin Caretaker


Trail Adoption

A bit earlier this year the Harvard Mountaineering Club became the official trail adopter of the Huntington Ravine Fire Road. Trail Adopters are utilized across the country by the US Forest Service as a way to address trail maintenance issues that might come up from time to time. Becoming a trail adopter gives volunteer groups and/or individuals the permission and training necessary to mitigate trail maintenance needs as they arise. In the northeast this likely includes over-growth on lesser used trails and the clearing of the occasional blow-down. Maintenance issues like this are sometimes best dealt with by capable members of the public who are willing and regular users of a particular area. The efficiency of such an arrangement benefits everyone by circumventing the back-log of work and funding issues that forest managers tend to be dealing with.

It is only fitting that the HMC has taken on this role given the fact that Ted Carman and crew cut the fire road as they staked out sites for the construction of the Harvard Cabin in the early 1960’s.

Work Weekend Details

As with everything relating to life at the Harvard Cabin and in the mountains, safety is paramount. If you are planning to help with trail work we are asking you arrive equipped with basic personal protective equipment to include sturdy foot wear, gloves, eye protection and helmet. You will not be excluded if you don’t have such gear, but the more volunteers that bring their own the better. Same goes for hand-tools. If you have your own,please bring along any hand tools that you imagine would be useful given the days work. Simple hand tools should suffice. Please, Please, Please – only bring tools you are familiar with and comfortable using. Thanks.

Friday, October 14th, 2016

08:00 PM – Arrival

Feel free to show up at the Harvard Cabin on Friday Night – It will be later evening – 8 PM or so before the cabin is opened. Of course, bring you sleeping gear and some food. It should be a fun night evicting the summer residents. Cabin was spic-and-span when it was secured last Spring, so it should be a quick turn-around and a fun evening.

Saturday, October 15th, 2016

07:00 AM – PInkham Parking Lot

Snow Ranger and Trails Manager Helon Hoffer will be arriving at the Forest Service Garage located at the North End of the Pinkham Parking Lot. He would appreciate any help hiking up hand-tools that will be used for the day.

09:00 AM – Harvard Cabin

Helon will be meeting volunteers at the Harvard Cabin for a short safety briefing and to go over the plan for the day. In recent years, it has been increasingly difficult to get the Piston Bully (snow cat) above the Dow Cache. HMC Volunteers will be assisting the Forest Service in clearing and widening sections of the fire road where new growth is making access and rescue operations difficult, especially during low snow periods.

10:00 AM – 04:00 PM

Find us on the fire road somewhere above the Dow Cache.

04:00 PM – ???

Various odd-jobs around the cabin before dinner and evening socializing.

Sunday, October 16, 2016

All Day – A bit more relaxed of a day. Various projects and pre-season prep around the cabin. Tasks for all abilities and energy levels.

NOTE – Harvard Cabin is not affiliated with the Appalachian Mountain Club. Harvard Cabin is maintained by Harvard Mountaineering Club for use by the general public. The cabin is operated under a special-use permit granted by the USDA Forest Service. Cabin space and tent-sites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis between December 1st and March 31st each year. Specific instructions for staying at the cabin can be found online at http://www.HarvardMountaineering.org/cabin

AAC Fall BBQ 2016

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American Alpine Club’s annual Fall BBQ

NORTHEAST SECTION – NEW ENGLAND

When: Saturday October 22, 2016
Time: 5:00 pm to 8:00 pm
Where: The base of Cathedral Ledge at the Picnic Area just opposite the kiosk

NEice is the proud sponsor of this years event! All are welcome. Swing by to say hi to Doug and get psyched for the upcoming ice season! Doug will have some good Soup for us and his latest Drones! And don’t forget, it’s “Fireball” season.

As always it’s BYOB, and a grill item. We’ll provide the grill, side salads and munchies. We will have Plates, forks, cups and napkins on hand.

The New England Section has a long tradition of gathering and bringing climbers together from across multiple generations. Come join us at the annual fall barbecue at Cathedral Ledge in New Hampshire and you’re likely to bump into a mix of climbers, from someone on their first trip to the White Mountains to local legends who have put up some of the area classics.

See you there!

More info here: https://americanalpineclub.org/new-england

Email: [email protected]

2017 – Northeast Ice Festivals

Northeast Ice Festivals 2017

Well the ice season is upon us and the Northeast Ice Festivals will be here before we know it. Here are the latest dates for the 2016-2017 Ice Season. Mark your calendars and sign up early!

Jan.13-15, 2017 – Adirondack International Mountaineering Festival, NY

Jan. 20-22,  2017 – Smuggs Ice Bash, Smugglers Notch, VT

Jan. 27-29,  2017 – VICE Fest, Woodstock, NH

Jan. 27-30, 2017 – Catskill Ice Festival, NY

Feb. 3-5, 2017 – MWV ICE FEST, North Conway, NH

  • Stay tuned to NEice throughout the season for the latest on these events.

 

Flying High at the 23rd Annual MWV Ice Fest 2016

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_wp_text]Photos by Solo, Guided by Doug Millen

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More photos and information on this event can be found here…https://www.facebook.com/mwvIceFest/

Drytools Kronos

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Flying High over the 20th ADK Mountainfest

Solo had a great time at the 20th ADK Mountainfest and captured some spectacular images. His first trip to the Adirondacks and he can’t wait to return. Many thanks to The Mountaineer and Rock and River for all the hospitality.

Also see a Photo Recap of the 20th Mountainfest from The Mountaineer

 

Photos by Solo, flown by Doug Millen


 

Tri-Scam to Quartz Crack to Post Nasal Drip

Great Climbing at the 10th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash

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Photo by Tim Farr

Photos From Solo

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Photos: Matt McCormick on the 4th pitch of a rock route called “Quartz Crack”, a bit of a classic in Smuggs. Matt linked it up with what he and Peter Doucette climbed a couple years back, “Post Nasal Drip” – which climbs a small portion of rock up and left from the ice route “The Snotcicle”. Matt and Bayard then climbed the icy corner up, left and around to the top in the photos. The rock route goes up and right to exit.

Bayard Russel of Cathedral Mountains Guides (in green) is at the bolted anchor on the top of P3 of “Quartz Crack”, they got there by climbing the ice route “Tri-scam”.

Photos by Solo, flown by Doug Millen

~ Tim Farr

Membership / Staff Manager
Smuggs Ice Bash Coordinator
Petra Cliffs Instructor & Guide
AMGA Certified SPI, Apprentice Rock & Ice Guide
NY State Lic. Rock and Ice Guide
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105 Briggs St.
Burlington VT 05401
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Smuggs Ice Bash 2016

10th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash: January 22-24

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Kick-off party | Drytooling Competition | Clinics | Slideshows & Speaker Presentation | Raffle | Camaraderie!

Free gear demos from the industries leading brands, clinics for the beginner to advanced climbers, multimedia slideshows by sponsored athletes, dry tooling competition and kick-off party, huge raffles and immense camaraderie in Vermont’s premier ice climbing destination, Smuggler’s Notch!

The goal of the Smuggs Ice Bash is to promote the sport of ice climbing, to educate climbers, to exhibit and demo new gear, and to share a weekend of fun, challenge, and inspiration with other winter enthusiasts in one of Vermont’s most amazing places, Smuggler’s Notch.

The raffle proceeds from the Smuggs Ice Bash will be going towards a much needed new rescue cache at Lake Willoughby. Last season the Rescue Cache on the South end was destroyed by ice. CRAG-VT has partnered with the AMC for a dollar-for-dollar match up to $400. Head over to the Cragvt.org to learn more or to donate. We’ll have loads of great prizes for Friday and Saturday’raffles so don’t miss your chance to win while supporting a much needed cause.

The KICK-OFF party

6th Annual Comp Poster

The Presenters

“Nick Bullocks presentation at the ADK Mountainfest was the best slide show I have seen in a long time. Nick was just bursting with energy, and so funny” – Doug Millen

If you missed him in the Dacks, be sure to see his show in Smuggs.

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The Smuggs Ice Bash is managed by Petra Cliffs Climbing Center & Mountaineering School 105 Briggs Street Burlington, VT 05401 802-657-3872  www.petracliffs.com

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ADK Mountainfest 2016 – Recap

20 Years of Mountainfest from NEice.com on Vimeo.

Solo takes to the sky during Mountainfest

PT at Poko

Climbers on the classic “Positive Thinking” Poke-O-Moonshine

The Waterfall

The Waterfall looking a little thin – Poke-O-Moonshine

The Quarry

Climbers learning how to climb steep ice at Pitchoff Quarry, Cascade Pass

Otus like you never saw it before

Otus like you never saw it before


Rugosity

Rugosity

Pitchoff Left

Pitchoff Left

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Cascade Pass

GOPR9265

Big Brother, Chapel Pond


Nick Bullock walks through the “Ice Storm”.

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Nick Bullock on “Ice Storm”. M6, WI 5+. Chapel Pond Canyon.

FA: Alex Lowe and Scott Backes, 1/98. On the first assent Scott lent Alex 4 new stubby ice screws for the climb, “and he roached everyone” (hitting the rock below) Scott said.

“A good introduction to Adirondack ice climbing” – Matt Horner

“Back in the East. Small crags shine with sheen. Breaking glass. Control the burn and control the brain and control the urge to sprint. Sprinting is not a recommendation. The protection glints a long way below. “You can never have enough pound in kit Nick.” I remember my friend Byard saying just after I almost hit the deck. “We’ll start steady, Matt McCormick said and almost as quick as you can say epic, I was teetering high, attached to thin silver looking at the distance I would go and my head screamed, ‘How the hell did this happen all over again and so soon?’” – Nick Bullock

More on Nicks Blog…

Photos by Matt Horner

Fun for everyone

Barry-can-Suffer

Barry-can-Suffer

VinnyAndEd

Ed gets the Golden Ice Ax award

The-Crowd

The-Crowd

The-Belay

Keep that belay tight!

 

20th Annual ADK International Mountaineering Festival

WELCOME TO MOUNTAINFEST 2016

January 15 through 18, 2016.

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS OF MOUNTAINFEST!

Clinics | Instructors | Registration | Schedule

ADK Mountainfest 2016

ADK Mountainfest 2016

Mountainfest is an annual celebration of ice climbing and mountaineering featuring guest athletes who entertain us with tales of climbing adventures, instructional clinics taught by visiting climbers and local guides, demo gear, and a chance to gather with the climbing community for an exciting winter weekend.

Mountainfest 2016 boasts an excellent lineup of speakers, including Patagonia athlete Barry Blanchard and DMM pro team member Nick Bullock. Barry has been to Mountainfest so many times that we consider him an Adirondack “local.” Barry and Nick’s slide shows on Saturday and Sunday evenings promise to be entertaining and also offer a chance to win raffle gear and free giveaways. In celebration of our 20th anniversary, Geoff Tabin, MD (aka the infamous Wilheim Jörge), co-founder of the Himalayan Cataract Project and a highly-accomplished mountain climber (Geoff was the fourth person in the world to climb the Seven Summits), is returning for a special cameo appearance Friday evening. Geoff will present “From Everest to Curing Blindness,” documenting his efforts to eliminate preventable blindness in third world countries by performing life-changing, low-cost cataract surgery, restoring sight to the previously blind. All proceeds from this presentation will directly support Geoff’s organization.

We’re offering more clinics than ever this year, including tons of ice climbing courses, snow and alpine climbing, snowshoe mountaineering, avalanche safety, and wilderness first aid. Many of the event sponsors will be here with the latest gear for you to take and climb with on both Saturday and Sunday.

Whether you come for the clinics or just climb on your own and check out the evening entertainment, Mountainfest is THE place to be this Martin Luther King weekend.

Hope to see you there!

Mt Washington Valley Ice Fest Recap – 2015

They save the best for last. The biggest Ice Fest in the Northeast was incredible this year. My only regret was that there was not enough time to do all I wanted, and not enough time to be with my friends.

I left home with 10 gallons of soup and two Helicopters. I returned with no soup and two intact helicopters ;-). Soup is not a hard sell when it is 10 degrees and I had a great time at Cathedral Ledge Sunday dishing up hot soup to cold and tired climbers. The weather was not the best for flying and my time was tight but I did manage to get some good footage of the valley and Whitehorse Ledge.

Sarah Hueniken, Jonathan Griffith and Miron Chlebosz gave great presentation to a full house. Miron gave us a look at the incredible Tatras Mountains in Poland and Jon had the audience in stitches and kept it moving with spectacular images! Jon is also into Drones and we had a great time talking as we watched Peter work “Black Magic” at Cathedral Ledge.

Ice fests are like a family reunion to me and I am sad that this was the last one of the season. I am already looking forward to next year.

Many thanks to Rick & Celia Wilcox, Brad White,  IMEIMCS guides, Guest guides, the Ice Fest Planning Team and all the people that make the MWV Ice Fest happen. Thank You!

And a special thank you to Courtney Ley for her help at the Ice Fest and all she does for NEice.

Enjoy the photos and videos below.

~Doug Millen

Some Great Climbing

Photos by Doug Millen and Majka Burhardt

A Few Ice Fest Photos

Photos by Krissy Noel Carey

Valley and Ledges by Ardu

Mt Washington Valley / Whitehorse Ledge, North Conway NH

I managed to get some free time between Ice Fest duties and meetings to do a little flying. I had never flown at Whitehorse Ledge so I meet up with Scott Barber (scottbarberfilm.com} Saturday morning to show DSC01158Scott my machines and test some new settings. Scott is just getting in flying and we had a lot of fun. I was able to catch some good footage of the Valley and the Ledge on my test flights Saturday,  and while heating the Soup up that afternoon. I wish the weather was better on Sunday when I had more time, but single digits, wind and snow grounded the fleet.

 

Flight by Ardu, flying, filming and editing by Doug Millen

Black Magic

Cathedral Ledge, North Conway NH

Peter Doucette working out the moves on Black Magic (M9) during the MWV Ice Fest 2015. Peter sent it clean on Tuesday, ground up placing gear the whole way. Nice work Peter!

Peter Doucette / Mountainsenseguides.com

Photos by Doug Millen

Apres fun at IME

 

MWV Ice Fest Recap & Thank You’s!

THANK_YOU

 The Guides and Crew

“The 2015 Mount Washington Ice Fest was hands down our best ever, but it only happened with many helping hands, talent, and passion! Wow, we are still coming down from an awesome high, we had a blast this year!”

See the full Thank You From the Ice Fest Crew