Boston Mountaineering Committee – 2019 Ice Climbing Program

The Boston Mountaineering Committee will offer the 2019 Ice Climbing Program this winter. This program teaches waterfall ice climbing and technical mountaineering skills. Prospective students should have rock climbing and winter sports experience. Please attend a mandatory free informational lecture at Arc’Teryx Newbury Street in Boston on Monday, December 3rd at 7 pm (2nd and 3rd lectures for admitted students only on Jan 7th and Feb 4th). The program will be held in the White Mountains on Jan 25-27 and Feb 8-10. Cost is $315 (members) or $375 (non-members). Info: or

MWV Ice Fest 2018 – Cathedral Ledge Video

I want to give a shout out to the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest Crew. You do a spectacular job, better every year. Thanks for all your hard work and for inviting us to this great event. Congratulations on 25 Years.

I wonder what ice climbing will be like in another 25 years. It boggles the mind! But for now, enjoy this footage I shot with my drone at Cathedral Ledge on Sunday. 

Naked A thread rappel anchor

Make a Naked A-Thread Rappel Anchor

Steve House shows you how to make a naked A-thread rappel anchor for descending from an ice route.

We like Naked A-thread rappel anchors. Threads with rope or slings left behind are nothing more than Alpine trash.

Steve will be at this years Mountainfest in the Adirondacks,  Jan. 12-14, 2018. Don’t miss his slideshow Saturday Night. NEice will be there with hot soup and flying the NEice Drones to capture this event from the air. It looks like the cold weather will continue and the conditions should be great! Hope to see you there. Information on The Mountainfest can be found here…


Whiteface Ski Mountaineering Classic

 The Mountaineer and Whiteface Mountain are combing forces to unleash the Inaugural Whiteface Ski Mountaineering Classic! This is a benefit event, all proceeds from the Ski Mountaineering Classic will be donated to NYSEF and The Keene Valley Ski Club.

final Skimo

When: Sunday March 12th 2017

Where: Whiteface Mountain Located on Rt 86 in Wilmington, NY

Registration: We will offer registration the day of the event but we prefer (for planning purposes) to Please call the Mountaineer to pre-register 518-576-2281

Start Time: 7AM The green flag drops and you’ll start the 4+ mile course!

Cost:$60 per participant. Fee includes uphill pass valid through the end of 2018

 Demos and Casual tour info click here

Course details, rules and regulations click here



Mt Washington Backcountry Ski Festival

March 11-12, 2017
Presented by The North Face


The first annual Mt Washington Backcountry Ski Festival is a gathering in the White Mountains of New Hampshire for backcountry skiers & riders of all abilities. While geared towards backcountry skiers and snowboarders, climbers should check out these parts of the festival:

  • Vendor camp at Ragged Mountain Equipment each day with demos including some mountaineering and ice climbing gear.
  • AIARE Level 1 avalanche course that runs in conjunction with the festival from March 10-12
  • Apres Ski Party at Wildcat Mountain Ski Area on Saturday night (March 11) with free appetizers, open bar/pub, presentations, raffle & auction, and live band (Steven Cooney & The Wayfarers)
  • Best of all for climbers at the Apres Ski Party…featured presentation by Emily Harrington of The North Face Athlete Team, Emily will be speaking about her ascent and ski descent of Cho Oyu (6th tallest mountain in the world)

*** NEice readers can use the code of “nei10” to get 10% off their registration. The code expires March 9. Full details and registration options can be found on the website and Facebook page.

Black Pudding Gully

Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival 2017

Out For Some Exercise

It’s been a great year for “Black Pudding Gully”. Hardly a gully, this climb can be steep and challenging at times, but it is fat and wide this year. And has seen a lot of traffic. It has been many years since I have climbed it, so we figured we would go have a look. Surely by now it would be stepped and hooked out making for an easy solo. Just what we needed, a little physical and mental exercise for our midday break. But we were late and two other parties of three were in front of us having fun climbing this classic line. So we took a line less traveled. A nice ice flow just to the right. It was steep and candled but Alden took one look and said “If I can’t climb that, I should not be going to Newfoundland”. He walked right up it with grace and confidence. I followed, it was just what I was looking for. BAKP showed us she is ready for harder climbs making it to the top easily with only a few squeaks ;-). Off I went to heat up the soup. Fred followed the climb and then, the Black Pudding Gully was standing alone, ready for Alden to climb before heading back for his Ice Fest responsibilities.


Don’t be deceived, the climb is very for-shortened in this photo. It’s longer and more vertical than it appears on both climbs. Black Pudding Gully on the left, Alden climbing on the right.- Doug Millen


Alden working the climb.- Doug Millen


Me climbing Black Pudding Gully in the 80’s…Note the lack of a helmet, and the straight shaft tools you can’t see. I slung the column then put in two airated screws, and then headed to the top for good gear.

Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2017


I love this event!!! So good to see everyone. It’s like a big family reunion! My only regret is not enough time to do all I wanted to do, or enough time to spend with everyone I wanted to see. I can’t wait till next year.

Many thanks to the MWV Ice Fest crew for all the hard work they do to put this event together. Thanks to all the sponsors that make this event possible. And to the guides for sharing their expertise of this amazing sport. And IME and Theater In The Woods for hosting, and to IMCS for coordinating all the guides. And thanks to all of you that attended, to make this the biggest, and best Ice Fest in the North East!

– Doug Millen

2017 Mt. Washington Valley Ice Fest

We are getting so PSYCHED!!!

The Largest Ice Fest in the Northeast is this Weekend!

Since its inception, 24 years ago, this event has been one of the biggest and most well known ice climbing events in the Northeast.

Feb. 3rd-5th, 2017
North Conway, New Hampshire


The Shows

CAMP & CASSIN are bringing a young gun out to give a killer show on Friday.
Scott Bennett and Graham Zimmerman have been climbing together for years, from dirt-bagging in Yosemite to helicoptering into remote Alaska ranges. With their sights set on the truly big mountains, they enlist the help and mentor-ship of Steve Swenson, who is perhaps the most successful American alpinist of his generation.

Outdoor Research is bringing this awesome Brit over for the Ice Fest!
Guy’s presentation will give the “insider’s view” on Scottish winter climbing – the basics, the ethics, and the different styles of climbing to be found in different parts of the country. He will do this by describing some of his best adventures, which he has been lucky enough to share with some of the scenes most ‘interesting’ characters. His focus is on the more remote, longer and committing climbs rather than the short hard technical test pieces.

Friday & Saturday evening festivities will be taking place again at Theater in the Wood located 4 miles north of IME/IMCS on route 16. 41 Observatory Way – Intervale, NH 03845 (does not work on GPS devices – use the coordinates GPS: 44.101547, -71.153641)

Demo This GEAR!

Why beat up your own gear, when you could test out, try and beat up this gear?! This is one of the coolest parts about the MWV Ice Fest. Check out all the incredible companies you can demo gear from! TRY BEFORE YOU BUY! We’re talking jackets, gloves, ice tools, crampons, helmets, harnesses, packs, boots and MORE! Also Sterling Rope will be there for you to check out and talk to them about what the best ropes they offer for the type of climbing you’re most psyched about!


8am-9am: Demo Gear is open to clinic participants to take out

9am-10am: Demo Gear is open to the public to take out

Demo companies are Outdoor Research, DMM, La Sportiva, Black Diamond, Trango, Adidas, Patagonia, Scarpa, Cilo Gear, Petzl, RAB, Cassin, CAMP USA, Grivel, Julbo, Mammut, Arc’Teryx, Asolo, Hyperlite Mountain Gear, Untapped & Good To Go Food! And you can check out Sterling Ropes at their table!

Guide ME!

Learn from some of the best guides in the Northeast.

Some classes are still available. Check for current availability

International Mountain Climbing School
2733 White Mountain Highway – PO Box 1666
North Conway NH 03860
Phone: (603) 356-7064

Soups On!

NEice will be serving up some yummy soup at the AAC table this year once more! You’ll find the soup kitchen upstairs at IME during Apres hours from 3:30-5:30 on both Friday and Saturday, at the AAC table.

Full Schedule

More details on the blog & website:

Tom Yandonon on Rhiannon, Chapel Pond

Featured Photos – ADK Mountainfest 2017

We had a great time at the 21st ADK Mountainfest. We delivered some hot soup to the clinics, did some climbing and Solo had a good flight over “Cheese and Crackers” at Chapel Pond. Here are a few of the images I captured during my travels at this event. Many thanks to The MountaineerRock and River , the Guides and everyone involved for the great work they do for the community, and the participants.  Their friendliness and hospitality is unmatched. We can’t wait to return.

Photos from the 2017 ADK Mountainfest – Doug Millen

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Cover photo: ADK Legend Tom Yandon getting started on Rhiannon, Chapel pond.



The 21st Annual ADK Mountainfest

Mark your Calendars!

January 13-15, 2017


Mountainfest 2017 has an excellent line-up of speakers this year including Patagonia athlete Kelly Cordes, Rab athlete Scott Bennett and Black Diamond athlete Kevin Mahoney.

safe_imagePatagonia Worn Wear will be hanging out in the shop during Mountainfest weekend and doing minor repairs (patches, zippers etc.) on your clothing! How cool is that!

Bluelines 2The new ice climbing guide book is here! BLUE LINES 2. Available exclusively at The Mountaineer for a limited time! Blue Lines 2 describes the explosion of routes in Panther Gorge, Hayes Mountain, Hoffman Notch, West Canada Cliff and Silver Lake Mountain. The new guide has more than double the route descriptions of the previous guide.

The Conditions are Great!

Conditions are shaping up nicely for this event and the area will offer some great ice climbing opportunities. Get the new guide book (BLUE LINES 2) and go out and explore. I am sure you won’t be disappointed.

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Photos from the photo section

Hot Soup! will be delivering hot soup to selected clinics. Nothing is better than hot soup on a cold day. NEice will also have it’s drones in the air capturing photos this great local event. SoloInterested in Drones? Doug will be around and happy to answer your questions on drone use for photography.

Tag your photos #northeastice on Instagram to show up on the front page of

– Mountainfest is an annual celebration of ice climbing and mountaineering featuring guest athletes who entertain us with tales of their climbing adventures. You will also find instructional clinics taught by visiting athletes and local guides, demo gear, and of course an opportunity to mingle with the climbing community for an exciting weekend of winter climbing and fun!

For more information on this event go to