Tri-Scam to Quartz Crack to Post Nasal Drip

Great Climbing at the 10th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash

Smuggs-Climb-from-the-top

Photo by Tim Farr

Photos From Solo

Smuggs-Solo-0

Smuggs-Solo-2

Smuggs-Solo-3

Photos: Matt McCormick on the 4th pitch of a rock route called “Quartz Crack”, a bit of a classic in Smuggs. Matt linked it up with what he and Peter Doucette climbed a couple years back, “Post Nasal Drip” – which climbs a small portion of rock up and left from the ice route “The Snotcicle”. Matt and Bayard then climbed the icy corner up, left and around to the top in the photos. The rock route goes up and right to exit.

Bayard Russel of Cathedral Mountains Guides (in green) is at the bolted anchor on the top of P3 of “Quartz Crack”, they got there by climbing the ice route “Tri-scam”.

Photos by Solo, flown by Doug Millen

~ Tim Farr

Membership / Staff Manager
Smuggs Ice Bash Coordinator
Petra Cliffs Instructor & Guide
AMGA Certified SPI, Apprentice Rock & Ice Guide
NY State Lic. Rock and Ice Guide
logo-petracliffs-conditions-2
105 Briggs St.
Burlington VT 05401
Like us on Facebook!
Check out our Blog!
Follow us on Instagram!

Smuggs Ice Bash 2016

10th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash: January 22-24

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

Kick-off party | Drytooling Competition | Clinics | Slideshows & Speaker Presentation | Raffle | Camaraderie!

Free gear demos from the industries leading brands, clinics for the beginner to advanced climbers, multimedia slideshows by sponsored athletes, dry tooling competition and kick-off party, huge raffles and immense camaraderie in Vermont’s premier ice climbing destination, Smuggler’s Notch!

The goal of the Smuggs Ice Bash is to promote the sport of ice climbing, to educate climbers, to exhibit and demo new gear, and to share a weekend of fun, challenge, and inspiration with other winter enthusiasts in one of Vermont’s most amazing places, Smuggler’s Notch.

The raffle proceeds from the Smuggs Ice Bash will be going towards a much needed new rescue cache at Lake Willoughby. Last season the Rescue Cache on the South end was destroyed by ice. CRAG-VT has partnered with the AMC for a dollar-for-dollar match up to $400. Head over to the Cragvt.org to learn more or to donate. We’ll have loads of great prizes for Friday and Saturday’raffles so don’t miss your chance to win while supporting a much needed cause.

The KICK-OFF party

6th Annual Comp Poster

The Presenters

“Nick Bullocks presentation at the ADK Mountainfest was the best slide show I have seen in a long time. Nick was just bursting with energy, and so funny” – Doug Millen

If you missed him in the Dacks, be sure to see his show in Smuggs.

Guest Presentations copy 1_zpsrirtdnjq

The Smuggs Ice Bash is managed by Petra Cliffs Climbing Center & Mountaineering School 105 Briggs Street Burlington, VT 05401 802-657-3872  www.petracliffs.com

You may also like:


Flying High at Mountainfest

ADK Mountainfest 2016 – Recap

20 Years of Mountainfest from NEice.com on Vimeo.

Solo takes to the sky during Mountainfest

PT at Poko

Climbers on the classic “Positive Thinking” Poke-O-Moonshine

The Waterfall

The Waterfall looking a little thin – Poke-O-Moonshine

The Quarry

Climbers learning how to climb steep ice at Pitchoff Quarry, Cascade Pass

Otus like you never saw it before

Otus like you never saw it before


Rugosity

Rugosity

Pitchoff Left

Pitchoff Left

Cascade Pass

Cascade Pass

GOPR9265

Big Brother, Chapel Pond


Nick Bullock walks through the “Ice Storm”.

dmm_logo_2000px_redNick Bullock on Ice Storm12494961_958633184206953_6066674626262289631_n12573084_958633224206949_546996179641444023_n

Nick Bullock on “Ice Storm”. M6, WI 5+. Chapel Pond Canyon.

FA: Alex Lowe and Scott Backes, 1/98. On the first assent Scott lent Alex 4 new stubby ice screws for the climb, “and he roached everyone” (hitting the rock below) Scott said.

“A good introduction to Adirondack ice climbing” – Matt Horner

“Back in the East. Small crags shine with sheen. Breaking glass. Control the burn and control the brain and control the urge to sprint. Sprinting is not a recommendation. The protection glints a long way below. “You can never have enough pound in kit Nick.” I remember my friend Byard saying just after I almost hit the deck. “We’ll start steady, Matt McCormick said and almost as quick as you can say epic, I was teetering high, attached to thin silver looking at the distance I would go and my head screamed, ‘How the hell did this happen all over again and so soon?’” – Nick Bullock

More on Nicks Blog…

Photos by Matt Horner

Fun for everyone

Barry-can-Suffer

Barry-can-Suffer

VinnyAndEd

Ed gets the Golden Ice Ax award

The-Crowd

The-Crowd

The-Belay

Keep that belay tight!

 

20th Annual ADK International Mountaineering Festival

WELCOME TO MOUNTAINFEST 2016

January 15 through 18, 2016.

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS OF MOUNTAINFEST!

Clinics | Instructors | Registration | Schedule

ADK Mountainfest 2016

ADK Mountainfest 2016

Mountainfest is an annual celebration of ice climbing and mountaineering featuring guest athletes who entertain us with tales of climbing adventures, instructional clinics taught by visiting climbers and local guides, demo gear, and a chance to gather with the climbing community for an exciting winter weekend.

Mountainfest 2016 boasts an excellent lineup of speakers, including Patagonia athlete Barry Blanchard and DMM pro team member Nick Bullock. Barry has been to Mountainfest so many times that we consider him an Adirondack “local.” Barry and Nick’s slide shows on Saturday and Sunday evenings promise to be entertaining and also offer a chance to win raffle gear and free giveaways. In celebration of our 20th anniversary, Geoff Tabin, MD (aka the infamous Wilheim Jörge), co-founder of the Himalayan Cataract Project and a highly-accomplished mountain climber (Geoff was the fourth person in the world to climb the Seven Summits), is returning for a special cameo appearance Friday evening. Geoff will present “From Everest to Curing Blindness,” documenting his efforts to eliminate preventable blindness in third world countries by performing life-changing, low-cost cataract surgery, restoring sight to the previously blind. All proceeds from this presentation will directly support Geoff’s organization.

We’re offering more clinics than ever this year, including tons of ice climbing courses, snow and alpine climbing, snowshoe mountaineering, avalanche safety, and wilderness first aid. Many of the event sponsors will be here with the latest gear for you to take and climb with on both Saturday and Sunday.

Whether you come for the clinics or just climb on your own and check out the evening entertainment, Mountainfest is THE place to be this Martin Luther King weekend.

Hope to see you there!

Mt Washington Valley Ice Fest Recap – 2015

They save the best for last. The biggest Ice Fest in the Northeast was incredible this year. My only regret was that there was not enough time to do all I wanted, and not enough time to be with my friends.

I left home with 10 gallons of soup and two Helicopters. I returned with no soup and two intact helicopters ;-). Soup is not a hard sell when it is 10 degrees and I had a great time at Cathedral Ledge Sunday dishing up hot soup to cold and tired climbers. The weather was not the best for flying and my time was tight but I did manage to get some good footage of the valley and Whitehorse Ledge.

Sarah Hueniken, Jonathan Griffith and Miron Chlebosz gave great presentation to a full house. Miron gave us a look at the incredible Tatras Mountains in Poland and Jon had the audience in stitches and kept it moving with spectacular images! Jon is also into Drones and we had a great time talking as we watched Peter work “Black Magic” at Cathedral Ledge.

Ice fests are like a family reunion to me and I am sad that this was the last one of the season. I am already looking forward to next year.

Many thanks to Rick & Celia Wilcox, Brad White,  IMEIMCS guides, Guest guides, the Ice Fest Planning Team and all the people that make the MWV Ice Fest happen. Thank You!

And a special thank you to Courtney Ley for her help at the Ice Fest and all she does for NEice.

Enjoy the photos and videos below.

~Doug Millen

Some Great Climbing

Photos by Doug Millen and Majka Burhardt

A Few Ice Fest Photos

Photos by Krissy Noel Carey

Valley and Ledges by Ardu

Mt Washington Valley / Whitehorse Ledge, North Conway NH

I managed to get some free time between Ice Fest duties and meetings to do a little flying. I had never flown at Whitehorse Ledge so I meet up with Scott Barber (scottbarberfilm.com} Saturday morning to show DSC01158Scott my machines and test some new settings. Scott is just getting in flying and we had a lot of fun. I was able to catch some good footage of the Valley and the Ledge on my test flights Saturday,  and while heating the Soup up that afternoon. I wish the weather was better on Sunday when I had more time, but single digits, wind and snow grounded the fleet.

 

Flight by Ardu, flying, filming and editing by Doug Millen

Black Magic

Cathedral Ledge, North Conway NH

Peter Doucette working out the moves on Black Magic (M9) during the MWV Ice Fest 2015. Peter sent it clean on Tuesday, ground up placing gear the whole way. Nice work Peter!

Peter Doucette / Mountainsenseguides.com

Photos by Doug Millen

Apres fun at IME

 

MWV Ice Fest Recap & Thank You’s!

THANK_YOU

 The Guides and Crew

“The 2015 Mount Washington Ice Fest was hands down our best ever, but it only happened with many helping hands, talent, and passion! Wow, we are still coming down from an awesome high, we had a blast this year!”

See the full Thank You From the Ice Fest Crew 


Catskills Ice Fest 2015

A Recon Flight by Ardu

 


Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2015

This Weekend!

The 22nd Annual

MWV Ice Fest 2015

Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2015

Feb. 6th-8th, 2015, North Conway, NH

Some highlights:

  • Ice climbing, mixed climbing, and mountaineering clinics with IMCS & Guest Guides (room still available!)
  • Climbing demos from 12+ sponsors
  • Morning coffee sponsored by Frontside Grind at the American Alpine Club Table
  • Beer sponsor, Tuckerman Brewing Company
  • FOOD! Gusto’s Food Truck will be at IME during Apres and at the evening events

Evening events held at Theater In The Wood, Intervale, NH

Friday Evening Events, 7pm, $10, at Theater In The Wood, Intervale, NH

  • Featured Presenter: Sarah Hueniken
  • American Alpine Club Silent Auction to benefit the Live Your Dream Grant

Saturday Evening Events, 7pm, $10, at Theater In The Wood, Intervale, NH

  • 15 Minute Opener: Miron Chlebosz
  • Featured Presenter: Jonathan Griffith

NEice and The Soup Kitchen Return with delicious homemade soup during the Apres Climbing Hour at IME Friday & Saturday, 3:30-5:30.  NEice has been bringing hot soup to ice climbers for over a decade and contributes to all the major Ice Festivals in the Northeast. The soup is alway a hit after a day out in the cold! Doug will also have his latest drones and some awesome footage from the UP project.

See more details at www.mwv-icefest.com/blog/

and at  www.iceclimbingforums.com

MWV Ice Fest Poster 2015

2015_IceFest_sticker

 

Smuggs Ice Bash Wrap-Up – 2015

Smuggler's Notch Ice Bash

 

The Smuggs Ice Bash in Smugglers Notch VT was too much fun! It gets bigger and better every year.

So let’s get right down to it. Friday night’s Kick-off Party and Dry Tool Competition at Petra Cliffs was a blast. DJ Kanganade was spinning and the competitors were sending. There was a large field of competitors this year and some stiff competition. Many thanks to Matt McCormick for the MC work and Steve Charest for tool retrieval and solid belays.

And the winners are…

The Dry tool Comp. winners. Smuggs Ice Bash 2015

The Dry Tool Comp Winners. Smuggs Ice Bash 2015 (winners left to right)

Men’s

  1. Roy Quanstrom
  2. Tyler Kempney
  3. Peter Hoang

Women’s

  1. Andrea Charest
  2. Alexa Siegel
  3. Marissa Gorman

Now lets put things in motion.  The Highlight Reel!

Saturday and Sunday were filled with tons of free gear demos and clinics for all abilities and levels. The weather was gorgeous on Saturday, sunny and in the 30’s. The road up the Notch was packed with climbers psyched on the weather and the ice conditions. After it was all over, we were treated with three great presentations by Alden Pellett, Michael Wejchert and Will Mayo. The next day it was back to normal winter weather with temperatures in the single digits. And when everyone came down the Notch from a cold day of climbing, the hot soup prepared by Doug was the perfect warm-up.

We will let the photos speak for themselves.

On Saturday, as the climbers headed up the road, Doug prepared the air fleet to grab some aerial footage of the Notch. The winds were calm, temperatures mild and the flying was fantastic.

NEice was proud to be apart of this years Smuggs Ice Bash and can’t wait till next year!

 

Photos by Courtney Ley and Doug Millen

 

Catskill Ice Festival 2015

AlpineEndeavors

The 17th Annual Catskill Ice Festival

January 30, 31, February 1, 2, 2015

This year again they will have multiple clinics on all the skills and techniques you need to get out on ice – from basic skills, to dry-tooling, to glacier travel techniques.

Demo ice climbing gear from Black Diamond, Petzl, La Sportiva, Outdoor Research and Rab.

Slide show will be held  Saturday at Rock and Snow at 8pm.

Saturday Slideshow:

NEice’s Doug Millen – Oh What a Long Strange Trip it’s Been!

Doug Millen reflects on the last 15 years at the helm of of NEice.com. Doug takes us on a journey of the ups, downs and glory days of NEice “A journey beyond my wildest dreams”. The Best of the Best from NEice.com. Including never seen photos and video from the Northeast. And a look at the UP project. Drones are fast becoming common place and Doug is on the leading edge. Have a look at his latest machines and where he is headed.

The demo gear will be located at Rock and Snow – so you can try out the latest Harnesses, Ice Tools, Crampons, and clothing from the best companies. You know them – Black Diamond, Petzl, La Sportiva, Outdoor Research & Rab.

Rates are $150 per person per event – Slideshows are free!

As an added bonus – Rock and Snow will offer 15% off for ice gear and apparel for all icefest registrants from the time they sign up through the end of the ice fest. All you need is to print out and show them the confirmation email we send when you register for it.

NEice will be at the Devils Kitchen on Saturday handing out hot soup and flying the drones. Hope to see you there!

More Information Here…

Catskill Ice Fest Cover Image


Smuggler’s Notch Ice Bash 2015

This Weekend!

Join NEice at the fastest growing Ice Festival in the Northeast! We will be at the notch road gate Jeffersonville side, dishing out hot soup and flying the drones. Hope to see you there.

 

January 23-25, 2015

Kick-off party | Clinics | Slideshows| Raffle | Camaraderie

Drytooling Competition: The East’s only Mixed Spectacle

Free gear demos, clinics for the beginner to advanced climber, multimedia slideshows, dry tooling competition, raffles and camaraderie in Vermont’s premier ice climbing destination, Smuggler’s Notch.

Don’t miss Saturday nights slide show by Climbing Magazine’s Golden Piton Award winner  for Ice Climbing for 2014, Will Mayo. Local hardman Alden Pellett and Michael Wejchert of North Conway will also be giving some great presentations.

The goal of the Smuggs Ice Bash is to promote the sport of ice climbing, to educate climbers, to exhibit and demo new gear, and to share a weekend of fun, challenge, and inspiration with other winter enthusiasts in one of Vermont’s most amazing places, Smuggler’s Notch. Learn forme some on the best guides around.

The Smuggs Ice Bash is managed by Petra Cliffs Climbing Center & Mountaineering School 105 Briggs Street Burlington, VT 05401 802.657.3872

See more here…http://www.smuggsicebash.com/about/     https://www.facebook.com/SmuggsIceBash

 

 Saturday Night, January 24th, 2015 @ 6pm

Presentations will take place at the Smugglers Notch Resort in the Meeting House Ballroom

CASH ONLY!

$20 for Italian Style Food Buffet and Presentation – Starting at 5pm

-or-

$5 for Presentation Only

Purchase Tickets in advance here:

Food and Presentations -or- Presentations only!

Cash Bar available too!