January 1st to January 31st, 2010
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Participants may submit up to 15 photos (taken from January 1st to January 31st, 2010) of Ice Climbing, Alpine Climbing, Mountaineering, Lifestyle, or Mountain Environment. See the full details on the web site.
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I was at a friends house when I got the news. Guy Lacelle has been killed in an avalanche. It hit home hard. I will remember that day forever…..
A Final Tribute
The Power of Light
It wasn’t long after Doug caught wind of the rule changes in Baxter State Park that I got a phone call from him. His question was a no brainier……. Read the Full Report
Nicolas Leduc leads up the second pitch on the Adirondack classic Multiplication Gully, Sunday, Dec. 21, 2009.(Photo by Cheezecrotte)
Despite the cold temperatures and wind chills, people are getting out and ticking off the classics. “Thin but in” is what we’re hearing for conditions on many routes but still very climbable for those solid at the given grades. In many cases, water is still flowing on the surface offering a break from the cement-like brittle conditions that often accompany the sub-zero temperature swings.
Photos from two super classics of the Northeast:
Called On Account of Rains, WI5+, Willoughby,VT
Positive Thinking, WI5, Adirondacks, NY
-NEIce
Guy Lacelle at Festiglace 2005 in Pont Rouge, Quebec. (NEIce.com file photo/Alden Pellett)
Bozeman, MT – World-renowned ice climber Guy Lacelle has died from injuries received when a small avalanche, triggered by a party above him, swept him over an ice climb in Hyalite Canyon where he was participating in the Bozeman Ice Festival. The loss of Lacelle is felt by many throughout the sport of ice climbing.
Lacelle attended Festiglace at Pont Rouge, Quebec, here in the Northeast for a number of years where he taught more than one eastern climber in the sport and inspired many with his solid climbing in competitions and confident free-solos. He will be sorely missed by all of us at NEice.
For more on the accident: Bozeman Daily Chronicle
Petzl Tribute to Guy Lacelle:Adieu Guy
Avalanche Investigation – Doug Chabot of the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center investigates the avalanche that killed Guy Lacelle. Guy was in a steep gully on non-technical terrain above the climb Silken Falls (120m…
Guy Lacelle climbing during the competition at Festiglace in Pont Rouge, 2005.(NEIce file photo/Alden Pellett)
Erik Eisele leading the 2nd pitch of the Black Dike in lean conditions – December 8th, 2009.In normal years the Black Dike usually is fat by now. The first Ascents usually happen in the first week of November. Jim Shimburg has climbed it in early October. This is as late a start as I can remember….Doug
All indications point to Major Cold and very stormy weather over the next 15 days
Ted Hammond enjoying the start of this weather change. Odell’s Gully – Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH 12/06/09All long term and short term indicators (NAO, EPO, EL Nino etc…) have been pointing to cold and stormy (For weeks). Well that is now coming to full realization for Dec to Jan. The last two storms were the beginning of the pattern change. We have one last one (Dec 7/8) to complete the transition and lock the NE into below to well below average temps and a very active storm track as well. 
What Ice if any survives this weeks storm should rapidly start building by the end of this week into the weekend. (Even in the southern sections to some extent) Next week should only continue to reinforce the ice building.
Snow Cover:
Check out the massive and rapid snow cover buildup over the US in just over the last 6 days ( Today – December 1). This is why the cold push will be so much stronger over the next 10 days, as the fresh snowpack will help in keeping the arctic air from moderating.
Source: Smike – NEice Weather Outlook
Solo climbers allowed, no minimum group sizeGreat news! I am packed and ready to go. Maybe I can find some ice up there.
See the park web site for more information. winter rules and regs and the NEice forum for discussion.
Source: post by greenmtnboy
Photo: South Basin from Chimney Pond by AOC
More info from apaulcalypse:
I just got off the phone with Baxter State Park (not sure if it was a ranger, just whoever picks up the 207.723.5140 phone line). According to the woman I spoke with,
a) There is no ‘gear inspection’ on arrival. You do not need to, say, have every item on a checklist, and the rangers will not deny you climbing based on what’s in your pack.
b) Climbing on Katahdin CAN still be closed down in bad weather. I asked for some examples of what constitutes ‘bad weather,’ and she listed wind chills significantly below 0, whiteouts, high avalanche danger, “things of that nature.”
c) Yes, you can climb any route as a party of two. There is no longer a minimum team size.
d) As far as she was aware, there were no designated start / end times for climbs; that is, you can climb whenever you want. She did caution that is inadvisable to be out climbing after the sun goes down, though.
e) Ropeless, technical, free-solo climbing IS allowed. If you want to hike or climb alone, there is a winter solo camping and climbing form to fill out, along with an itinerary. You can climb ropeless alone or with partners. There is no specific hardware rack required, just gear appropriate to the terrain.
– Also see the article By Steve Prettyman Winter Climbing on Mt. Katahdin
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