Posts

The Painted Wall Icicle

M9 WI 5+

FA – 1/6/10  Bayard Russell – Peter Doucette, Kevin Mahoney & Doug Madara
Peter Doucette following the ice pitch. The first pitch climbs overhanging rock from the right.  The icicle was in unusually fat condition  1/6/10

Peter Doucette following the ice pitch. The first pitch climbs overhanging rock from the right.  The icicle was in unusually fat condition  1/6/10

russellKevinM

1/6/10 – Climbing guide Bayard Russell has succeeded on the first ascent of a stunning mixed climb on the Painted Wall, Kancamagus Highway NH.  This climb has seen numerous attempts over the last few years but this week every thing came together for Bayard.

Read the full story on Bayard’s blog – Cathedral Style

Source: Bayard Russell

Photos by Bayard Russell & Kevin Mahoney 

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Amateur Photo Contest

Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest – Amateur Photo Contest

January 1st to January 31st, 2010

IME-ice-fest-poster4WebShare your adventures, win cool shwagg, and get published with Rock & Ice!

Participants may submit up to 15 photos (taken from January 1st to January 31st, 2010) of Ice Climbing, Alpine Climbing, Mountaineering, Lifestyle, or Mountain Environment. See the full details on the web site.

Visit: http://icefestphotocontest.ning.com

Get A Job – 1/3/10

Matt-Mccormick-get_a_job_1-3-09b

Matt McCormick on “Get a Job”. Poke-O-Moonshine, Adirondacks NY  1-3-2010
Photo by MGB-VT

A Final Tribute to Guy Lacelle

Guy Lacelle
1955-2009

I was at a friends house when I got the news. Guy Lacelle has been killed in an avalanche. It hit home hard. I will remember that day forever…..
A Final Tribute

Mt. Katahdin Maine

Petzl_logoThe Power of Light

A Trip Report

katahdin-5

December 16-21 2009

It wasn’t long after Doug caught wind of the rule changes in Baxter State Park that I got a phone call from him. His question was a no brainier……. Read the Full Report

Guy Lacelle Killed By Avalanche

Guy Lacelle at Festiglace 2005 in Pont Rouge, Quebec. (NEIce.com file photo/Alden Pellett)

Guy Lacelle at Festiglace 2005 in Pont Rouge, Quebec. (NEIce.com file photo/Alden Pellett)

Bozeman, MT –  World-renowned ice climber Guy Lacelle has died from injuries received when a small avalanche, triggered by a  party above him, swept him over an ice climb in Hyalite Canyon where he was participating in the Bozeman Ice Festival.  The loss of Lacelle is felt by many throughout the sport of ice climbing.

Lacelle attended Festiglace at Pont Rouge, Quebec, here in the Northeast for a number of years where he taught more than one eastern climber in the sport and inspired many with his solid climbing in competitions and confident free-solos. He will be sorely missed by all of us at NEice.

For more on the accident: Bozeman Daily Chronicle

Petzl Tribute to Guy Lacelle:Adieu Guy

Avalanche Investigation – Doug Chabot of the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center investigates the avalanche that killed Guy Lacelle. Guy was in a steep gully on non-technical terrain above the climb Silken Falls (120m…

Guy Lacelle climbing during the competition at Festiglace in Pont Rouge, 2005.(NEIce file photo/Alden Pellett)

Guy Lacelle climbing during the competition at Festiglace in Pont Rouge, 2005.(NEIce file photo/Alden Pellett)

The Black Dike, Finally!

Franconia Notch, NH  12/08/09

The Black Dike - erik Eisele- RAS 12-8-09Erik Eisele leading the 2nd pitch of the Black Dike in lean conditions –  December 8th, 2009
Photo by RAS

In normal years the Black Dike usually is fat by now. The first Ascents usually happen in the first week of November. Jim Shimburg has climbed it in early October. This is as late a start as I can remember….Doug

Condition Report 12/8/09

Eguide  – Franconia Notch, NH

StandardLine

Huge Transition Underway

Real Winter Pattern Coming!

All indications point to Major Cold and very stormy weather over the next 15 days

ted_odellsdec-6-09Ted Hammond enjoying the start of this weather change.  Odell’s Gully – Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH  12/06/09
Photo by Alfonzo

All long term and short term indicators (NAO, EPO, EL Nino etc…) have been pointing to cold and stormy (For weeks). Well that is now coming to full realization for Dec to Jan. The last two storms were the beginning of the pattern change. We have one last one (Dec 7/8) to complete the transition and lock the NE into below to well below average temps and a very active storm track as well. Blind fate-Smuggs

What Ice if any survives this weeks storm should rapidly start building by the end of this week into the weekend. (Even in the southern sections to some extent) Next week should only continue to reinforce the ice building.

Blue ice Buldge-smuggsSnow Cover:

Check out the massive and rapid snow cover buildup over the US in just over the last 6 days ( Today –  December 1).  This is why the cold push will be so much stronger over the next 10 days, as the fresh snowpack will help in keeping the arctic air from moderating.

Source: Smike – NEice Weather Outlook

Photos by Rockytop
Blind Fate and Blue Ice Buldge Smugglers Notch VT 12/07/09

Ouray mixed competition 2009

By Alden Pellett