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Ice Climber Falls 100 feet!

NEWS FLASH!

Colorado ice climber falls 100 feet Tuesday (1/12/10) when  the Fang ice formation in East Vail  Colorado unexpectedly sheared and fell , with the lead climber on the route.

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Mountainfest 2010

 The 14th annual Adirondack International Mountainfest takes place this Weekend – January 15-17, 2010

This year’s event will kick off with a slide show by blind adventurer Erik Weihenmayer on Friday night. Saturday’s speaker will be world-class alpinist Steve House, and Sunday’s entertainment is Bill Pelkey. Guest athletes Steve House and Jim Shimberg will join local guides Chuck Boyd, Emilie Drinkwater, Jeremy Haas, Carl Heilman, Matt Horner, Chad Kennedy, Colin Loher, Don Mellor and Jim Pitarresi to lead instructional clinics on ice climbing, mountaineering, snowshoeing and avalanche awareness on Saturday and Sunday.

See the Mountaineers web site for more information

The Painted Wall Icicle

M9 WI 5+

FA – 1/6/10  Bayard Russell – Peter Doucette, Kevin Mahoney & Doug Madara
Peter Doucette following the ice pitch. The first pitch climbs overhanging rock from the right.  The icicle was in unusually fat condition  1/6/10

Peter Doucette following the ice pitch. The first pitch climbs overhanging rock from the right.  The icicle was in unusually fat condition  1/6/10

russellKevinM

1/6/10 – Climbing guide Bayard Russell has succeeded on the first ascent of a stunning mixed climb on the Painted Wall, Kancamagus Highway NH.  This climb has seen numerous attempts over the last few years but this week every thing came together for Bayard.

Read the full story on Bayard’s blog – Cathedral Style

Source: Bayard Russell

Photos by Bayard Russell & Kevin Mahoney 

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Amateur Photo Contest

Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest – Amateur Photo Contest

January 1st to January 31st, 2010

IME-ice-fest-poster4WebShare your adventures, win cool shwagg, and get published with Rock & Ice!

Participants may submit up to 15 photos (taken from January 1st to January 31st, 2010) of Ice Climbing, Alpine Climbing, Mountaineering, Lifestyle, or Mountain Environment. See the full details on the web site.

Visit: http://icefestphotocontest.ning.com

Get A Job – 1/3/10

Matt-Mccormick-get_a_job_1-3-09b

Matt McCormick on “Get a Job”. Poke-O-Moonshine, Adirondacks NY  1-3-2010
Photo by MGB-VT

A Final Tribute to Guy Lacelle

Guy Lacelle
1955-2009

I was at a friends house when I got the news. Guy Lacelle has been killed in an avalanche. It hit home hard. I will remember that day forever…..
A Final Tribute

Mt. Katahdin Maine

Petzl_logoThe Power of Light

A Trip Report

katahdin-5

December 16-21 2009

It wasn’t long after Doug caught wind of the rule changes in Baxter State Park that I got a phone call from him. His question was a no brainier……. Read the Full Report

The Ice Season is Off and Running!

Eugene Kwan follows on Hassig's Direct variation of The Black Dike on Cannon Cliff. (Photo by Kevin Mahoney)

Eugene Kwan follows on Hassig’s Direct variation of The Black Dike on Cannon Cliff. (Photo by Kevin Mahoney, IFMGA/UIAGM Guide, Mahoney Alpine Adventures)

Finally, colder temperatures have arrived, albeit a bit colder than most of us would have liked to start with but ice has formed all over the Northeast now. Many of the classic lines are in and the season is solidly underway! Even the often elusive “Called on Account of Rains”, WI5+, at Lake Willoughby has formed and been climbed already!

Millen Machine and Alfonzo are up in Baxter State Park this week testing themselves and the new climbing regulations. We’re looking forward to a fantastic trip report and great photos as always from the duo!

Enjoy, send hard, be safe and stay warm!


Guy Lacelle Killed By Avalanche

Guy Lacelle at Festiglace 2005 in Pont Rouge, Quebec. (NEIce.com file photo/Alden Pellett)

Guy Lacelle at Festiglace 2005 in Pont Rouge, Quebec. (NEIce.com file photo/Alden Pellett)

Bozeman, MT –  World-renowned ice climber Guy Lacelle has died from injuries received when a small avalanche, triggered by a  party above him, swept him over an ice climb in Hyalite Canyon where he was participating in the Bozeman Ice Festival.  The loss of Lacelle is felt by many throughout the sport of ice climbing.

Lacelle attended Festiglace at Pont Rouge, Quebec, here in the Northeast for a number of years where he taught more than one eastern climber in the sport and inspired many with his solid climbing in competitions and confident free-solos. He will be sorely missed by all of us at NEice.

For more on the accident: Bozeman Daily Chronicle

Petzl Tribute to Guy Lacelle:Adieu Guy

Avalanche Investigation – Doug Chabot of the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center investigates the avalanche that killed Guy Lacelle. Guy was in a steep gully on non-technical terrain above the climb Silken Falls (120m…

Guy Lacelle climbing during the competition at Festiglace in Pont Rouge, 2005.(NEIce file photo/Alden Pellett)

Guy Lacelle climbing during the competition at Festiglace in Pont Rouge, 2005.(NEIce file photo/Alden Pellett)