News 2/3/10

New Climb Smuggs 2010

Slinging icicles for gear, Alden Pellett persevered up a new route (Scotch and Water, WI5X, 300′) to right of Cloak and Dagger during the Alpinist Magazine sponsored 4th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash.
Photos by Jeremy “Rowdy” Dowdy

Smuggs Ice Bash Report 2010

Gadd and Emmett Suggest WI10

Will Gadd – The Endless Ascent – 25,414 feet of ice in 24 hrs. (video)

NEice Screen Savers – The first of many to come. Enjoy.

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Gadd climbs vertical ice for 24 hours

A total of 25,414 feet

Arc’teryx Athlete Will Gadd climbs vertical ice for 24 hours at the Ouray Ice Festival to raise money and awareness for the dZi Foundation. Get a behind the scenes look at his physical preparation and the grueling 24 hour event.

More on Will’s blog of his Endless Ascent.

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Mt. Washington Valley Ice Fest 2010

WMF2010-posterWeb-bigFebruary 5-7 2010

Clinics, Demos, Multimedia Show, Guest Athletes & Guides, 2nd Face Off Comp, Climbers Party, and Amateur Photo Contest!

Steve House is coming into town and will be giving a killer show.  Steve is currently supporting the release of his first book Beyond the Mountain.

Read more about the Ice Fest here: ICE FEST BLOG . Enter the  Ice Fest Photo Contest and  More Here..

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Photo of the Week 1/28/10

 A Warm, Sunny Day at Poko-O

Discord-Seb-Ridge2Seb enjoying the mild weather on “Discord”, Poke-O-Moonshine, Adirondacks NY 1-23-10

Say goodbye to the warm weather.  The cold is coming back!

Photo by Ridgerunner

News & Information 01/24/10

SmuggsIceBash

The 4th annual Smuggs Ice Bash, the local ice climbing festival at the foot of Smugglers Notch VT. Is This Weekend January 29-31, 2010.  More…

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The Bossman

Bayard Russell & Matt McCormick were crushing it in the “Dacks” during Mountainfest establishing “The Bossman” M9

Mountainfest Report

The 14th annual Adirondack International Mountainfest was held on January 15-17, 2010. This year’s event featured a slide show by blind adventurer Erik Weihenmayer and world-class alpinist Steve House. See the Report..

Beyond The Mountain

Beyond the Mountain by Steve House describes what it takes to be one of the world’s best high-altitude mountain climbers.  More…

Ghost River Seasonal Access Secured

After four years of lobbying and negotiations the Climbers Access Society of Alberta (CASA) won a seasonal permit from the Alberta Government for access into the North Ghost.  More…

New Petzl Tools

If you could change the Nomic, what would do? That’s easy; add a hammer and a spike. Well Petzl is working on this and the proto types are here.  More…

NorthFace – The Movie

Based on a true story, NORTH FACE is a gripping adventure drama about a competition to climb the most dangerous rock face in the Alps. More…

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Mountainfest Report 2010

Mountainfest 2010The 14th annual Adirondack International Mountainfest was held on January 15-17, 2010.

This year’s event featured a slide show by blind adventurer Erik Weihenmayer and world-class alpinist Steve House.  Steve is traveling the Northeast promoting his new book “Beyond The Mountain”. Steve said “this is my first and last book, I put everything I have into it” I look forward to reading it.

The Guest athletes  Steve House, Jim Shimberg and local guides Chuck Boyd, Emilie Drinkwater, Jeremy Haas, Carl Heilman, Matt Horner, Chad Kennedy, Colin Loher, Don Mellor and Jim Pitarresi  and Lori Crowingshield lead instructional clinics on ice climbing, mountaineering, snowshoeing and avalanche awareness . The weather was perfect and the participants enjoyed learning to ice climb and push the limits.

True to Mountainfest tradition of establishing new climbs, Matt McCormick and Bayard Russell opened up “Bossman” (M9-230′) on the High Falls Crag in Williminton Notch. This section of cliff had repelled many of the best climbers recently, including Steve House. More on this exceptional climb…

Many thanks to The Mountaineer,  Rock and River and everyone involved for all your hard work that make this festival a great success. Over the last 14 years the festival has raised more than $70,000 for the school, fire department and other local community causes. Thank  you

Enjoy these photos from the Mountainfest

Photos by  Jim Pitarresi & Doug Millen
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Mountaineer Storerock and river logo

The Bossman

The Bossman

Bayard Russell & Matt McCormick

were crushing it in the “Dacks” during Mountainfest

True to Mountainfest tradition of establishing new climbs, Matt McCormick and Bayard Russell opened up “The Bossman” (M9) on the High Falls Crag in Wilmington Notch. This section of cliff had repelled some of the best ice climbers in North America recently, including Maxime Turgeon, LP Menard and Steve House.

“The Bossman (M9, 3 pitches) follows a single, continuous crack for 230 feet. The first pitch climbs technical, steep terrain on turf shots and thin pick torques. Pitch 2 contains the crux, an extremely reachy move with chickenscratch for feet. The last, short pitch corkscrews behind a minor icicle then “worms out” onto the ice” – Matt McCormick

“I whined a little bit starting the first pitch, on unbonded thin ice, but pounded a specter hook in some turf and muckled up onto a ledge anyway” – Bayard Russell

See Alpinist.com for more on this climb and Bayards blog Cathedral Style

More on Matt and Bayard – Astro Turff / The Painted Wall Icicle / Strippers

Smuggs Ice Bash 2010

The 4th annual Smuggs Ice Bash. A local ice climbing festival at the foot of Smuggler Notch VT.

Big news? Alpinist magazine has made Jeffersonville its new home and is helping with sponsorship of the Ice Bash this year.

Come Join the Bash!

# Socialize at the Brewski on Friday the 29th, 6pm

# Demos, clinics & slide show on Saturday the  30th

# Demos and clinics on Sunday the 31st

Northern Revival

Matt McCormick will present “Northern Revival” at the Brewski, Saturday Jan 30th – 6:00pm, a multi-media look at the next generation of Vermont climbs and climbers, including ice, rock, and mixed – all local. Free, AND, it coincides with the Ice Bash raffle, arguably the most booty filled, cheapest raffle in the festival circuit (proceeds go directly to Crag-VT, our local Access Fund partner – Bolton Quarry, Upper West Bolton, etc.) – Bert Severin

Ice Bash Going Green!

For more details see the links below

Source:  Smuggsicebash.com / NEice.com/forum

Beyond The Mountain

by Steve House
beyond the mountain - Steve Houe

Alpinist editor-in-chief Michael Kennedy, calls Steve House’s new book “. . . a rare and profoundly personal glimpse of the drive, dedication and focus behind today’s light-and-fast ascents.”

Steve said “this is my first and last book, I put everything I have into it.”  I look forward to reading it.

Steve is currently supporting the release of his first book with a tour of the North East. Look for him next at the White Mountain Ice Fest, North Conway NH – February 5, 6 & 7 2010

Buy it Now!

The NorthFace Movie

Based on a true story, NORTH FACE is a gripping adventure drama about a competition to climb the most dangerous rock face in the Alps. In 1936, Nazi propaganda urges German Alpinists to conquer the unclimbed north face of the Swiss massif, the Eiger, bringing two reluctant climbers, Toni Kurz (BENNO FÜRMANN) and Andi Hinterstoisser (FLORIAN LUKAS), to begin their daring ascent and attempt to scale the infamous rock face, often called the Murder Wall.

Opening in Theaters in the US on January 29, 2010. Released by Music Box Films.