Sunrise on the Rooster's Comb
The GPS on the DeHaviland Otter we’re flying is showing “Danger – Terrain Ahead” in white letters on a red background. It’s the type of message that usually serves as a precursor to slamming into the ground in a fiery explosion. And indeed, as we fly over the Pika glacier there’s a giant face of rock, snow, and ice looming not just ahead of us, but above us…….
Erik Weihenmayer, left, and Jay Abbey, right, heading up Ham & Eggs Couloir on the Moose's Tooth in Alaska. Photo by Ian Osteyee.
By Ian Osteyee, Adirondack Mountain Guides.
At the time Erik Weihenmayer had floated the idea of going to Alaska’s Ruth Glacier to climb the routes “Ham and Eggs” and “Shaken not Stirred” on the Moose’s Tooth, we had just barely finished climbing “.5 Gully” on Ben Nevis in Scotland. We still had a few climbing days left and already he was thinking about the next trip. That’s Erik though; he is really motivated to climb, more than many climbers I know.
So a few days later Erik and I, joined by Jay Abbey, flew up to Anchorage. Weather reports didn‘t look good but we already had the time set aside and the tickets had been purchased…..
Most of the Tablets at Lake Willoughby lying at the base a week ago. Photo by RAH.
NEIce opened the season with a new website as it reached the 10-year anniversary milestone, a fact which stands as a tribute to the region’s wonderful ice climbing community. Temperatures this weekend hit an unusual mark for April reaching above 80 degrees Fahrenheit in New England. While there are still pockets of solid ice to be found on Mt. Washington, we take a look back at the highs and lows of the past season.
This past winter got off the an early start in mid-October but was slow to kick off as most routes didn’t form until early December.
Climbing the wild ice on ‘Medusa’, Wi4, on the Gaspe’ Peninsula, Canada. (Photo by MtnRkr)Lots of NEIce members were out there getting after it this past week. Travelling to the Gaspe’, Canadian Rockies, and also nearer to home on Mt. Webster in N.H.
Alfonzo gives a great Trip Report of a posse of NEicer’s sending on Mt. Webster: Mt. Webster’s new Kick My Pick Hole route
Chance meeting in the Canadian Rockies: RaginTurk and Spectre run into Ridgerunner and LarryB
We have a new batch of NEice stickers. If you would like one, send a stamped self addressed envelope to the address below.
Doug Millen
NEice.com
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Gloucester MA 01930
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Donate today!
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Doug Millen
Mike Rawdon leading up "The White Fang", at Underwood Canyon, Adirondacks, N.Y. The route offered a spicey start for the given grade of, yup, 4+. hmmm?
Another photo of White Fang: Mike R. checking out the start. Not for everyone.
Looking up the fang.Looks steep!
-Nearing the end of the season is a bittersweet time as we get psyched for all the hard climbing being done when fitness levels reach a peak for many climbers just as the ice starts to bake in the longer, sunny days toward springtime. Seek out those north-facing flows for safer days. Also, don’t forget, it’s this time of year when an awesome day of plastic ice in the morning and sunny rock in the afternoon can be done for a special two-fer day out.
Things are hot down in Southwestern Pennsylvania lately too… and we’re not talking about the temps! Check out Ian Austin’s steep new route,“Double-A” which the duo have given a WI6.
Then there’s the wild projects the crew is working on down there! Check out Joe Torretti getting after it! A Meadow Run project
“Well, as though things aren’t busy enough for a full time photographer, I make myself even busier with an event I love. In my spare time (haha, laugh now) I also help put together an Ice Climbing Festival here in North Conway. It is 3 days full of sponsors, demos, a climbing competition, slideshow, beer sponsor, Super 80’s Dance Party, Apres Climbing Hours, Guided Clinics, and tons more. PHEW! Catch my drift? Somehow I managed to snap a few photos while helping to pull it all together”
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Matt McCormick on the first ascent of "Hydropower", M9, Wi5- in the Black Chasm, Catskills, NY. Photo by Ryan Stefiuk
News & InformationErik Weihenmayer Climbs Ben Nevis
Mahoosic Notch, Maine – eguide
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“On my first attempt of the day on the new route I made it all the way to the ice before elbowing my ice tool out of a hook while clipping! AAAHHHH! I couldn’t believe it. I had the route in the bag only to knock my own tool off the route!
Read more about “Hydropower” and the Catskills Ice Fest 2010
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