Ghost River Seasonal Access Secured

Alberta Canada / January 18, 2010

After four years of lobbying and negotiations the Climbers Access Society of Alberta (CASA) won a seasonal permit from the Alberta Government for access into the North Ghost.

There are two elements to the access permit.

First, the permit grants access to climbers right now.  As of Jan 15, climbers have interim access to the staging area in front of The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (GBU). Please note that for a short time we won’t have vehicle access to cross the river to the Valley of the Birds. The second part of the permit is that CASA has been given permission to build a track from GBU to the Malamute Valley, including a bridge and staging areas.  Once the construction work is done climbers will be able to drive across the river in front of GBU to access Valley of the Birds and other climbs to the south.

CASA is now at work arranging the construction of the track.  We will announce the dates for construction soon, because it will impede access for that weekend.  Similarly, once the construction is completed, we’ll announce the details of access including UTM coordinates of the staging areas and a GPS track log of the route.

In the meantime, we ask climbers to respect the current access restrictions (i.e. do not drive further than GBU).  The permit and our continued access is conditional on our communities’ compliance, and it is expected that Alberta’s Sustainable Resource Development will be monitoring the work we are doing in the Ghost.

The seasonal access is valid until March 31, 2010.  After that date the closure point will revert back to Crossing 38.

If you have any questions feel free to contact CASA directly at: chair@climbersaccess.ab.ca.

Source: Climbersaccess.ab.ca

New Petzl Tools

If you could change the Nomic, what would do? That’s easy; add a hammer and a spike. Well Petzl is working on this and the proto types are here.

See photos at Escalade Quebec / Forum

“The tools we are seeing at the show now and out climbing (Ueli Steck and the Petzl web page) are still prototypes. Close but still protos. I found it interesting the even Steck hadn’t seen or used the new tools till just last week.” – Dane

“All the new tools are now taking the older style Nomic picks. But now they are cut to take hammer and adze (the coldthistle hammer and adze are lighter fwiw). All the picks are now T rated as well and with a 3 year guarantee!” – Dane

Source: CascadeClimbers.com / forum

“Check them out and start drooling”  – pcooke

“The thing that attracts me the most, is the Nomic with the hammer…Now you have to carry a third tool for hammering stuff when you climb with those….if they manage to put a spike as well, those tools will see more usage on the mountains…” – farmax

Source: NEice.com / forum

The forum threads:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/935212/gonew/1/OR_show_neat_shit_thread#UNREAD

https://www.neice.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=51302#Post51302

Photo of the Week 1/22/10

Jason-Hurwitz-Advocate-RAS-1-21-10aJason Hurwitz leads the Advocate in the Black Chasm, Catskills, NY
Photo byRyan Stefiuk

See more Catskills action on his web site – Big Foot Mountain Guides

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Tents Needed for Haiti Relief

Mark Richey, a past president of the AAC, is helping to organize a collection drive for tents and sleeping bags to send to Haiti to aid the hundreds of thousands (perhaps millions) of people left homeless by the recent earthquake. “Used tents, as long as they are functional, and sleeping bags are fine, and of course new tents and sleeping bags from any of our outdoor industry friends would be ideal,” Richey said. “Since the climate is hot, lightweight sleeping bags are preferable and larger, camping-style tents would be best, but anything will be used.”

Time is of the essence, so equipment should be sent no later than Friday, January 22, to:

Mark Richey Woodworking
40 Parker Street
Newburyport, MA  01950-4056

Read more

Strippers!

Josh Hurst about to fire the FA of “Strippers” Frankenstein Cliff, Crawford Notch NH. – Bayard Russell

“it was impressive, the final roof suiting his style of climbing – extra burly pull-ups”

-Bayard Russell

The route is between Cocaine and the Wrath of the Valkyrie.

Read more at Cathedral Mountain Guides

Source: Bayard Russell

Ice Climber Falls 100 feet!

NEWS FLASH!

Colorado ice climber falls 100 feet Tuesday (1/12/10) when  the Fang ice formation in East Vail  Colorado unexpectedly sheared and fell , with the lead climber on the route.

Read more

Mountainfest 2010

 The 14th annual Adirondack International Mountainfest takes place this Weekend – January 15-17, 2010

This year’s event will kick off with a slide show by blind adventurer Erik Weihenmayer on Friday night. Saturday’s speaker will be world-class alpinist Steve House, and Sunday’s entertainment is Bill Pelkey. Guest athletes Steve House and Jim Shimberg will join local guides Chuck Boyd, Emilie Drinkwater, Jeremy Haas, Carl Heilman, Matt Horner, Chad Kennedy, Colin Loher, Don Mellor and Jim Pitarresi to lead instructional clinics on ice climbing, mountaineering, snowshoeing and avalanche awareness on Saturday and Sunday.

See the Mountaineers web site for more information

The Painted Wall Icicle

M9 WI 5+

FA – 1/6/10  Bayard Russell – Peter Doucette, Kevin Mahoney & Doug Madara
Peter Doucette following the ice pitch. The first pitch climbs overhanging rock from the right.  The icicle was in unusually fat condition  1/6/10

Peter Doucette following the ice pitch. The first pitch climbs overhanging rock from the right.  The icicle was in unusually fat condition  1/6/10

russellKevinM

1/6/10 – Climbing guide Bayard Russell has succeeded on the first ascent of a stunning mixed climb on the Painted Wall, Kancamagus Highway NH.  This climb has seen numerous attempts over the last few years but this week every thing came together for Bayard.

Read the full story on Bayard’s blog – Cathedral Style

Source: Bayard Russell

Photos by Bayard Russell & Kevin Mahoney 

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Amateur Photo Contest

Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest – Amateur Photo Contest

January 1st to January 31st, 2010

IME-ice-fest-poster4WebShare your adventures, win cool shwagg, and get published with Rock & Ice!

Participants may submit up to 15 photos (taken from January 1st to January 31st, 2010) of Ice Climbing, Alpine Climbing, Mountaineering, Lifestyle, or Mountain Environment. See the full details on the web site.

Visit: http://icefestphotocontest.ning.com

Get A Job – 1/3/10

Matt-Mccormick-get_a_job_1-3-09b

Matt McCormick on “Get a Job”. Poke-O-Moonshine, Adirondacks NY  1-3-2010
Photo by MGB-VT