In for a Tune-UP!


King Kong in for a tune-up before heading north to the Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival this Weekend, February 1,2, & 3. Hope to see you there.


MWVIF Presenters 2013

More information on the event here..


Adirondack Mountainfest 2013 from the Air

by Courtney Ley  

The NEice helicopters and flight crew were busy during this year’s Adirondack Mountainfest! Doug and I arrived on Thursday night with the helicopters calibrated, charged up and ready to fly.  We were on a mission to capture some footage of the spectacular ice climbing that the Adirondacks has to offer. We were lucky to be able to unpack our bags at the Adirondack Rock and River Lodge, the co-host of the event, along with The Mountaineer. The accommodations were no less than perfect.

King Kong takes some aerial photos of Rock and River Friday morning

On Friday, we set off to check out conditions at Roaring Brook. We were not totally surprised to see the brook was still roaring, but with the excellent lighting and the beauty of the waterfall, we launched the WooKong for a closer look.

Then it was off to Chapel Pond. Things were in excellent shape and there were climbers spotted all over the area enjoying the ice and the beautiful weather. In the canyon, there were some guided parties getting a head start on the festivities. It was great to stop and chat with them.

The WooKong checks on conditions at Chapel Pond

Of course, any day in the Keene Valley area isn’t complete without a stop in at The Mountaineer, whether you’ve spent the day climbing, hiking or flying, and that’s exactly what we did.

The NEice air fleet buzz The Mountaineer

On Saturday, Doug headed to the cliffs of Poke-O-Moonshine with the WooKong while I stayed in the warm lodge doing some last minute editing to the short film we were presenting that night before the Freddie Wilkenson main event. As it turned out, some of the best footage was taken at Poke-O and I was happy to have last-last minute clips to put together. The flying was tight, but Doug took some risks, piloted well and it paid off!

Ted Hammond waves to the camera.

We took the helicopters to the Keene Central School that night and had them on display to mingle with the climbing community. Before Freddie’s presentation and after The Mountaineer folks and sponsors tossed a lot of goodies into the audience, we showed off our best footage from our first couple of months into the project. Some of the best footage being the crashes, of course.  Always a crowd pleaser! As it turned out, Freddie’s presentation involved aerial footage as well.. on a much grander scale. His presentation of the Tooth Traverse in the Alaska Range was one of the most visually stunning that I’ve seen.


Sunday’s weather offered up wicked winds, snow tornadoes and cold temperatures. Doug checked with the flight control tower (me) and I announced the helicopters were grounded for the day. With the presentation behind us, it was time to go climbing. First, we took a hike into Chapel Pond canyon and saw everyone enjoying their clinics.  Then it was time to swing the tools myself. I had yet to climb Chouinard’s Gully, so it was an obvious choice. What an enjoyable climb. As with any classic, it doesn’t take long to see why it is a classic.

We decided to stay over until Monday and caught a couple of quick laps on the Sisters in Cascade Pass. NEice ambassador Emilie Drinkwater of Cloudsplitter Mountain Guides showed up on this bitterly cold day and climbed up the left route as we were on the right side.  Despite encountering extremely brittle ice conditions and almost freezing to death, it was perfect.

Chouinard’s Gully from the air

Doug nearing the top of Sisters right. (photo courtesy of Cloudsplitter Mountain Guides – Emilie Drinkwater)

It was a fantastic weekend spent with great company, great meals and lodging, fun climbing and excellent presentations to keep that stoke going!  Thank you to everyone who stopped by to say hi and see the helicopters on Saturday night and also throughout the weekend.  To everyone I say, this is only the beginning!  UP!

(Click images to enlarge)







Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest – 2013

MWVIF Presenters 2013


Since its inception 20 years ago this event has been eagerly anticipated by ice climbers in the Eastern United States and is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. It is intended to be a celebration of ice climbing and winter mountaineering and the people that make it a part of their lives. It continues to provide a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. The Mt. Washington Valley is one of the finest waterfall ice climbing destinations in North America. Each year we offer a variety of skills-based clinics and exciting slide shows with featured climbers and guides from the New England area and around the world.

Why Climb with us at Ice Fest?

  • You’ll learn from the absolute best! We have the biggest roster of guest guides to date this year
  • You’ll meet lots of other climbers and maybe a future climbing partner
  • There are courses for all abilities
  • Jaw dropping videos/shows
  • Free Gear Demos!
  • Free Food
  • It’s Fun




LOCATION: Theater In The Wood, Intervale, NH
TIME: Doors open at 7pm
HOST: DJ Mon Voyage Neon
COST: $10 per night


  1. Nick Bullock– multi media show
  2. Renan Ozturk, & Freddie Wilkinson– multi media show

The American Alpine Club Silent Auction for the LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT
AAC membership get in for $5 or FREE if you signup/renew your AAC membership at the door.


  1. Silas Rossi & Peter Doucette– 4 min Short Film
  2. Josh Wharton– multi media show
  3. Kyle Dempster–  multi media show







Getting ready for the comp.


Almost ready to go! Petra Cliffs indoor climbing comp

Smuggs Ice Bash 2013


January 25-27, 2013

The ice is coming back with a vengeance!  With very cold weather building ice all week it should be a great weekend in the Notch! Look for NEice at the the parking lot at the entrance to the Notch for some hot soup and a look at the NEice helicopters! Lets hope the flying weather is good! Hope to see you there.

Friday, January 25

Petra Cliffs Climbing Center, Burlington VT

6:00 – 10:00pm: Smuggs Ice Bash Kick-off Party
Drytooling Competition
Public Dyrtooling Demos
Anne Skidmore Photography Silent Auction
Alden Pellett Newfoundland Slideshow

Petra Cliffs Climbing Center
105 Briggs St., Burlington VT
(802) 657-3872

$5 entry, any further donation to the KISMET Rock Foundation or CRAG-VT appreciated!

Saturday, January 26

Breakfast available for purchase at The Mix Cafe & Bakery at the Smuggs Inn, open at 7am

Clinics 9am – 3:30pm

2-4pm: Free: Science of Ice Climbing Demo at “Frank’s Creation” aka Guide’s Wall

Aprés climb & dinner available at the Smuggs Tavern

Slideshow Presentation by Kevin Mahoney: First Ascents from New England to Alaska to Nepal; Free
6:00pm  at Smuggler’s Notch Inn & Tavern, 55 Church St., Jeffersonville VT

Raffle to benefit CRAG-VT

Sunday, January 27

Breakfast available for purchase at The Mix Cafe & Bakery at the Smuggs Inn, open at 7am

Clinics 9am – 3:30pm

Ice Bash wrap-up at the Smuggs Inn & Tavern

More info here…

Annual Agawa Canyon – Ice Climbers Festival 2013

The 15 th. Annual Agawa Canyon – Ice Climbers Festival & Reunion will take place March 7-10, 2013

Icefest Events!

The Ice Climbing Festivals are almost here!

Be sure to attend one, or all of them if you can!

NEice Ambassador, Guide & Owner of the Petra Cliffs, Andrea Charest will be at the Smuggs Bash &  MWV Icefest.
Photo; Mike Bauman
















Adirondack Mountain Fest – Jan 18-20, 2013

Smuggs Bash – Jan 25-27, 2013

Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest – Feb 1-3, 2013

Catskill Ice Festival – Feb 8-11, 2013

Fund Drive – December 2012

What would the ice climbing season be like without NEice?…Think about it!

It’s time for the year end Fund Drive.

NEice is a community web site run by volunteers, but we still have hard costs to run and maintain the server and the related costs. While sponsors and Google ads help,  it’s the viewer donations that make the difference.

If you like what we are doing and want us to expand our efforts and bring you the best there is in Northeast Ice Climbing. Contribute to the site and make a donation today.



$25.00 / Season is the standard donation. More is greatly appreciated

It’s Easy!

1. You can click the donation logo below to make a payment using PayPal. PayPal is secure and easy to use system for online payments.

2.You can also send a check payable to to the address below

PO Box 360

Bartlett, NH 03812-0360

 I would like to thank this seasons sponsors and supporters

The American Alpine Club
The Mountaineer
Alpine Web
Black Diamond
Outdoor Research
Mountain Tools
Boston AMC Mountaineering Committee
Members Donations

Thanks for your support!

~ Doug Millen

AAC Annual Benefit Dinner – March 2-3, 2012

American Alpine Club 2012 Annual Benefit Dinner in Boston

Weekend focus is Partnership: Climbing through the Generations

American Alpine Club

Golden, CO—Today The American Alpine Club—dedicated to knowledge, inspiration, conservation and advocacy for the climbing community—announced the theme, featured speakers, and destination for its 2012 Annual Benefit Dinner weekend, March 2–3, 2012. The dinner will be held at the Seaport Hotel on the waterfront in Boston, Massachusetts, and will celebrate a year of change and success through the theme of Partnership: Climbing through the Generations.

The weekend will kick off March 2nd with a Friday night Member’s Meeting and Climber’s Gathering, a social evening open to all climbers and attendees. Saturday night’s Annual Benefit Dinner will include waterfront dining, annual awards honoring climbing’s luminaries and rising stars, an auction, and a keynote presentation.

Boston native Mark Richey and climbing partners Freddie Wilkinson and Steve Swenson have been tapped to deliver the keynote, sharing inspiration from their August 2011 Saser Kangri II expedition. The goal was to reach the 7,518-meter summit of the second-highest unclimbed mountain in the world—one of the last frontiers of Himalayan climbing. For Mark and Steve, both in their 50s, the climb was the capstone of their long and already distinguished climbing careers. The story of their expedition will provide a glimpse into the future of exploratory alpinism, highlight the powerful tradition long exemplified by the New England climbing community and The American Alpine Club, and amplify the evening’s theme of partnership across generations.

The Annual Benefit Dinner is the AAC’s signature and largest annual event. In addition to fine dining and entertainment, the Dinner mingles climbers of all generations and abilities to celebrate the vibrant state of this 110-year-old organization.

“This year’s program speaks to themes that resonate deeply at The American Alpine Club. The Swenson-Richey-Wilkenson route on Saser Kangri II—previously the second highest unclimbed peak on Earth—is bold and adventurous,” said Phil Powers, Executive Director at The American Alpine Club. “The intergenerational nature of the team and the amazing story of Steve Swenson’s rescue at the end of the trip resonate with what we value at the AAC.”

In 2011, The American Alpine Club implemented new programs, attained advocacy milestones, and expanded its online and grassroots community resources to provide climbers with more resources and ways to connect with each other. In just the past year, the Club has:

• Hired staff around the country to ensure that the AAC is vibrant in your backyard. These regional coordinators regularly connect with Members by hosting local events, conservation projects, and more.

• Expanded its Member benefits to include rescue insurance, climber-friendly
insurance, expansive discounts, and new and improved places for climbers to stay, such as the rebuilt Snowbird Hut in Alaska and the new AAC Clubhouse in Kathmandu, Nepal.

• Purchased 40 acres of land on the rim of West Virginia’s New River Gorge. The AAC is
working with local conservation and climbing organizations to plan a Climbers’
Campground with amenities walking distance from popular crags.

• Launched a new website, bringing local communities together in a more
user-friendly and attractive online space.

• And in 2012, the Club will break ground on a new Climbers’ Campground with easy access to climbing in New York’s Shawangunks.

“The AAC is at its best when we can be helpful to climbers where they climb—in their own backyards. Bringing the annual dinner to Boston is a tiny example of our increased support of local sections. Just in the last year we have added regional coordinators and new conservation and climbing grants to support needs at the local level,” Powers said.

For more information and tickets, visit <>

About The American Alpine Club
The American Alpine Club provides knowledge and inspiration, conservation and advocacy, and logistical support for the climbing community. The AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world’s most sought-after climbing annuals, The American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering; cares for the world’s leading climbing library and country’s leading mountaineering museum; manages the Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $80,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants to adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at Join the AAC’s online community at


Erik Lambert
Information & Marketing Director
The American Alpine Club
[email protected]org
(303) 951-4572

Alycia Cavadi
Momentum Media PR
[email protected]
(617) 875-5553


Agawa Canyon Ice Festival – 14th Annual

14th Annual Agawa Ice Festival

Join the gang from March 8th to March 11th 2012 at Mile 112 in Agawa Canyon

This is an unique festival as it is without sponsors, slideshows, pubs or hot tubs. We all get off the train at the site of our …winter basecamp and emergency climbers shelter. As the camp is only 100 feet from the tracks climbers bring a huge amount of gear. The allowance is 100 pounds per person. Some bring propane heaters and canvas tents. We bring along a gas generator, lights and a satellite phone

Evenings are spent around a bonfire discussing the canyon and sharing experiences in ice climbing across North America.

Train drops us off on Thursday at 1:20 and picks us up on Sunday around 2:00 pm. The area has plenty of climbs for all abilities. A 2007 guidemap to Agawa Canyon is available through

Seach for information on climbing in Agawa Canyon.
Everyone is welcome to attend, email or call if you have specific questions.

Train fares are> $138.00 round trip from Sault Ste. Marie or $53.00 round trip from Frater Station. There is logging taking place to the east of the canyon so the road to Frater will likely be open in March. The forestry company expects to be logging just to the east of Far Off Falls by mid March.

Guiding and gear rental is available as well.
contact us for more information

-Shaun Parent

North of Superior Climbing Company
Shaun Parent
P.O. Box 85 Batchawana Bay, Ontario
P0S-1A0 705-946-6054

FACEBOOK:: northofsuperior climbingcompany
[email protected]