Athlete Profile: Erik Eisele

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A day out with local Bartlett resident Erik Eisele. On this day he and Scott Bubnis climbed Diagnol on Cathedral Ledge, North Conway NH. We previously showed the time lapse of this great winter climb. Here is a look at the climber himself and great footage of the climb. Look for more of Eriks climbing on his blog Shades of Granite

Video by Dustin Marshall

http://dmarshallphoto.com/

Source: Youtube.com

In for a Tune-UP!

 

King Kong in for a tune-up before heading north to the Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival this Weekend, February 1,2, & 3. Hope to see you there.

 

MWVIF Presenters 2013

More information on the event here..

 

Adirondack Mountainfest 2013 from the Air

by Courtney Ley  

The NEice helicopters and flight crew were busy during this year’s Adirondack Mountainfest! Doug and I arrived on Thursday night with the helicopters calibrated, charged up and ready to fly.  We were on a mission to capture some footage of the spectacular ice climbing that the Adirondacks has to offer. We were lucky to be able to unpack our bags at the Adirondack Rock and River Lodge, the co-host of the event, along with The Mountaineer. The accommodations were no less than perfect.

King Kong takes some aerial photos of Rock and River Friday morning

On Friday, we set off to check out conditions at Roaring Brook. We were not totally surprised to see the brook was still roaring, but with the excellent lighting and the beauty of the waterfall, we launched the WooKong for a closer look.

Then it was off to Chapel Pond. Things were in excellent shape and there were climbers spotted all over the area enjoying the ice and the beautiful weather. In the canyon, there were some guided parties getting a head start on the festivities. It was great to stop and chat with them.

The WooKong checks on conditions at Chapel Pond

Of course, any day in the Keene Valley area isn’t complete without a stop in at The Mountaineer, whether you’ve spent the day climbing, hiking or flying, and that’s exactly what we did.

The NEice air fleet buzz The Mountaineer

On Saturday, Doug headed to the cliffs of Poke-O-Moonshine with the WooKong while I stayed in the warm lodge doing some last minute editing to the short film we were presenting that night before the Freddie Wilkenson main event. As it turned out, some of the best footage was taken at Poke-O and I was happy to have last-last minute clips to put together. The flying was tight, but Doug took some risks, piloted well and it paid off!

Ted Hammond waves to the camera.

We took the helicopters to the Keene Central School that night and had them on display to mingle with the climbing community. Before Freddie’s presentation and after The Mountaineer folks and sponsors tossed a lot of goodies into the audience, we showed off our best footage from our first couple of months into the project. Some of the best footage being the crashes, of course.  Always a crowd pleaser! As it turned out, Freddie’s presentation involved aerial footage as well.. on a much grander scale. His presentation of the Tooth Traverse in the Alaska Range was one of the most visually stunning that I’ve seen.

 

Sunday’s weather offered up wicked winds, snow tornadoes and cold temperatures. Doug checked with the flight control tower (me) and I announced the helicopters were grounded for the day. With the presentation behind us, it was time to go climbing. First, we took a hike into Chapel Pond canyon and saw everyone enjoying their clinics.  Then it was time to swing the tools myself. I had yet to climb Chouinard’s Gully, so it was an obvious choice. What an enjoyable climb. As with any classic, it doesn’t take long to see why it is a classic.

We decided to stay over until Monday and caught a couple of quick laps on the Sisters in Cascade Pass. NEice ambassador Emilie Drinkwater of Cloudsplitter Mountain Guides showed up on this bitterly cold day and climbed up the left route as we were on the right side.  Despite encountering extremely brittle ice conditions and almost freezing to death, it was perfect.

Chouinard’s Gully from the air

Doug nearing the top of Sisters right. (photo courtesy of Cloudsplitter Mountain Guides – Emilie Drinkwater)

It was a fantastic weekend spent with great company, great meals and lodging, fun climbing and excellent presentations to keep that stoke going!  Thank you to everyone who stopped by to say hi and see the helicopters on Saturday night and also throughout the weekend.  To everyone I say, this is only the beginning!  UP!

(Click images to enlarge)

 

 

 

 

 

 

DRY ICE Tools

THE PERFECT SOLUTION TO INDOOR ICE AND MIXED CLIMBING TRAINING. BECAUSE WINTER IS JUST NOT LONG ENOUGH!

The Tooth Traverse

Here are some pieces of the attempts Zack Smith aspenexpeditions.com/i-Zack-Smith-103.html, Freddie Wilkinson thenamelesscreature.com/ and myself, Renan Ozturk, rockmonkeyart.com have put into climbing the ‘Tooth Traverse’ of the Ruth Gorge, AK.

The Tooth Traverse from Camp 4 Collective on Vimeo.

Change of Venue – Taking the Sharp End

A piece on changes of venue, shifts in perspective, and good times with good people.

Paradox Ice

Paradox Ice / Sierra Club Mission Outdoors
February 8-10, 2013
North Conway, NH

If you are interested in getting more involved, they need volunteers

Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest – 2013

MWVIF Presenters 2013

About..

Since its inception 20 years ago this event has been eagerly anticipated by ice climbers in the Eastern United States and is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. It is intended to be a celebration of ice climbing and winter mountaineering and the people that make it a part of their lives. It continues to provide a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. The Mt. Washington Valley is one of the finest waterfall ice climbing destinations in North America. Each year we offer a variety of skills-based clinics and exciting slide shows with featured climbers and guides from the New England area and around the world.

Why Climb with us at Ice Fest?

  • You’ll learn from the absolute best! We have the biggest roster of guest guides to date this year
  • You’ll meet lots of other climbers and maybe a future climbing partner
  • There are courses for all abilities
  • Jaw dropping videos/shows
  • Free Gear Demos!
  • Free Food
  • It’s Fun

 

Shows

FRIDAY & SATURDAY NIGHT:

LOCATION: Theater In The Wood, Intervale, NH
TIME: Doors open at 7pm
HOST: DJ Mon Voyage Neon
COST: $10 per night

FRIDAY, FEB. 1st:

  1. Nick Bullock– multi media show
  2. Renan Ozturk, & Freddie Wilkinson– multi media show

The American Alpine Club Silent Auction for the LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT
AAC membership get in for $5 or FREE if you signup/renew your AAC membership at the door.

SATURDAY, FEB. 2nd:

  1. Silas Rossi & Peter Doucette– 4 min Short Film
  2. Josh Wharton– multi media show
  3. Kyle Dempster–  multi media show

THE 20th ICE FEST BIRTHDAY BASH !!!!!!

More…

http://www.mwv-icefest.com/

http://www.ime-usa.com/imcs/

http://www.mwv-icefest.com/blog/

 

Source: http://www.mwv-icefest.com/

 

 

New Petzl Ice Climbing Products

New – Fall 2013 Ice Climbing Tools

Photo Casque @Lafouche
 

casque 



LASER SPEED LIGHT: Lightweight ice screw with integrated handle

Ultra-light screw with aluminum tube is ideal for mountaineering. Starting is facilitated by the optimized shape of the steel drill. The integrated flexible crank gives an optimized lever, making it easier and faster to screw in.

 

casque 

LASER SPEED: Ice screw with integrated crank

The LASER SPEED ice screw starts easily due to the optimized drill shape. Strength and durability are improved due to the steel tube and specific threading. The integrated flexible crank gives an optimized lever, making it easier and faster to screw in.

 

casque 

LASER: Ice screw

Starting the LASER ice screw is facilitated by the optimized drill shape. Strength and durability are improved due to the steel tube and specific threading. Screwing is facilitated by the excellent ergonomics of the aluminum hanger.

 

casque 

D-LYNX: Screw-in mono-point crampons for ice climbing, mixed climbing and dry tooling

Screwing the mono-point D-LYNX crampons directly onto shoes reduces weight considerably and improves rigidity. The shape and angle of the points are designed for expert use in dry tooling, mixed or ice climbing. The D-LYNX offers more striking precision thanks to the front/back positioning adjustment.

 

casque 

LIM’ICE: Sharpener for ice screws

The simplified handling of the LIM’ICE screw sharpener makes drill sharpening faster and easier. The two sharpening guides optimize precision sharpening on both sides of the drill teeth.

 

Too Cold to Fly!

We were having problems with the cold (single digits) at the Smuggs Ice Bash. We think it is the radio so I got an insulated carry case that we can put hand warmers in…Let’s hope this works.