Lake Willoughby, VT
FA: 01-25-12 Ryan Brooks and Josh Hurst
“Road Warrior is hands down the best mixed route I’ve been on at Lake Willoughby” – Josh
Rack: Standard rock rack including two #3 Camalots and three ½” cams, no pins, 5 screws: including 2x 10cm and 3x 13 cm.
The Route ascends a large corner 200 meters to the north of Twenty Below Zero Gully.
P1: NEI 4 50m Climb the left most ice flow, pull the overlap onto thin ice and a good stance. Foot traverse left and up easy mixed to the base of the big corner.
P2: M6 25m Up the big corner. Do not rap off the tree, your ropes will get stuck.
P3: M8 35m Traverse up and right following flakes to the ice. When the ice ends at the big roof, traverse right around the roof to a belay back left. If the ice smear extends to the overlap midpitch, the second crux can be avoided, lowering the grade half a notch.
P4: NEI 4- 20m Climb thickening ice to the trees.
Descent: Walk off or rap the route from anchors at the top of P3 and P1.[slideshow id=23]
Road Warrior is hands down the best mixed route I’ve been on at Lake Willoughby. It’s a modern mixed route with a very traditional feel requiring a full rack. The name comes from the absurd amount of driving it took to complete this route, 50+ hours over 6 days, and the apocalyptic setting at the base of the large rock fall. (Who doesn’t have a crush on Mel Gibson anyway?) It should be noted that the route is clean and is on some of the best rock at Willoughby. The route forms every year, this year being the smallest I’ve seen it.
The Back Story by Josh Hurst
Source: Josh Hurst
Note: This pair also put up “TINY DANCER” at The Lake last year.