Cannon Cliff – Winter Girdle Traverse

by Rufus J Lusk

Cannon Cliff Winter Girdle Traverse from Cowboy Bear Ninja on Vimeo.Possibly the biggest alpine objective on the east coast the Girdle traverse crosses a lot of rock. Cannon is about a mile long and the traverse crosses a good chunk of that length.

Matt McCormick is a professional climber and gear rep for Petzl who lives in Burlington VT. http://mattmccormickclimbing.blogspot.com/

Freddie Wilkinson is a professional climber with Mountain Hardware, writer and guide who lives in Madison NH. http://www.thenamelesscreature.com/

Source: Matt McCormick, Vimeo

 


Floods and Deep Snow

Spring is coming!

And with spring weather comes certain opportunities …..get ready!

Heavy rains hit hard in the south and deep snow (2-3 ft) in north west of our region. More heavy rain on the way, even on Mt. Washington. The ice will take a heavy hit. But the good news is that the  forecast is for much below normal temperatures to follow.

southridgewebsz

-North West Vermont

Heavy snow conditions on the beginning of the South Ridge Traverse, TD,II,15M, Aid was used to reach the lower ridgeline. Third ascent this winter. – Rockytop

moores

-Catskills New York

“Buttermilk… maybe more like Chocolate milk?” – Cramp!

Surf's Up!

“The ice swell was ON at Poko-Moonshine cliff this season, the winter of 2010- 2011. My friends Matt Horner, Matt McCormick, and Bayard Russell pioneered an amazing new mixed line just right of the Jeff Lowe test-piece, Gorillas in the Mist. Only one pitch remained to finish Endangered Species to the top of the cliff… and Kevin Mahoney was psyched…” – Freddie Wilkinson

Source: Vimeo, Freddie Wilkinson

La Loutre & La Pomme d'Or 3/5/11

La Loutre_2nd Pitch

La Loutre_2nd Pitch

 

La_Loutre and La_Pomme_d_Or - 3/5/11

La_Loutre and La_Pomme_d_Or

Malbaie, Quebec – La Loutre & La Pomme d’Or are still in great condition as of March 5th, 2011.

-Seb



Photo of the Week 2/28/11

Mate, Spawn and Die

1 mate-NEice
Leslie Ackerman on the first female lead of “Mate, Spawn and Die”(WI5 M4) Salmon River Falls NY.

Photo by Jim Lawyer

Agawa Canyon Ice

The Ice of Agawa Canyon (Eastern Shore of Lake Superior)

by Shaun Parent
Agawa Canyon One Mile

Canyon Sign at Mile 113

My first trip into Agawa Canyon was some 25 years ago on December 27, 1986 when Chris Lloyd and I ventured into the area for a week long adventure of exploring and developing ice climbs.

Things have changed plenty since the mid 1980’s when ice climbing was just beginning in the Canyon. Orient Bay to the north was known and climbers from the Midwest were flocking there on weekends due to the number of easily accessible routes. Here in Agawa Canyon, unlike Orient Bay, after 25 years the Canyon sees less than 50 visitors a season, and most of them head in during the annual Agawa Canyon Ice Festival. This March 2011 celebrates the 13th anniversary of the occasion.

The canyon is a 6 mile long north-south corridor between Miles 110 and 116 on the Algoma Central Railway which connects Sault Ste. Marie Ontario with Hearst Ontario at the end of the line at Mile 296. The line is used for hauling freight, but also has a passenger train service.

The Canyon hosts over 135 ice climbs and each year between mid-December and mid-April ice formations hang off the 200 meter walls which cloak the east and west sides of the canyon……..Read the rest of the report

AgawaCanyon

Southbound Train with the ice climb TRESTLE to the left.

North of Superior Climbing Company
Shaun Parent
P.O. Box 85 Batchawana Bay, Ontario, P0S-1A0
705-946-6054
info@northofsuperiorclimbing.com
www.northofsuperiorclimbing.com

Agawa Canyon

Agawa Canyon

Ice Fest Face Off – 2011

Mount Washington Valley NH

February 4, 2011
MWiceFaceOffThumb

click to see the video

The Winners!

Men’s – Josh Worley  /  Women’s – Janet Bergman

Video by by Julian Rodier – Climberism Magazine in collaboration with Juharo Productions
Source: Vimeo, Climberism.com

Quand l'Diable s'en Mêle

59D_Quand_l_Diable_s_en_m_le_MP

Marc Paquet dancing his way up on the St-Laurence north shore near La Malbaie, Quebec. Photo by “pathbeaudet”

Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival 2011

February 4th-6th, 2011

North Conway, NH

MWVice FestPoster1

The Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival, aka Ice Fest, was started 18 years ago by local climbing legend Rick Wilcox. One of the premier climbing events in the country, Ice Fest brings together climbers of all abilities to celebrate the adventure, the fun, and the comradery of ice climbing.

Friday evening Film Fest: The evening includes the Outdoor Research Film Fest with films that include Matt McCormick, Rufus J Lusk, Granite Films, Ueli Steck , Rob Frost , and Steve House !

HouseSolo“Granite Films documented Steve House soloing Repentance last year! This piece will make you squirm and your hands sweat.”

Openings for clinics are still available.  Sign up before they are filled!

See more about this event on NEice, the festival blog spot and IME

See you there!

StandardLine

Spray Ice, Quick Report

PONDELLA__HELMCKEN__6357

“This is going out from Tim Hortons in Salmon Arm, BC. I wanted to post Pondella’s photos and some words. Yeah!”

“I am sure of little in life, but of this I am sure: The Helmcken Falls spray ice cave is absolutely the wildest, best, most insane ice climbing area I’ve ever seen.”

“The metal detector was an integral part of the rack, and will be for future ascents” – Will Gadd

Much More ….

Source: gravsports.com, Will Gadd