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Burhardt and Siegel Start off the Ice Season with Impressive Ascent

The first ascent of the Black Dike on Cannon Cliff each year has always been the herald of the new ice season.  This year, it came early and swift!

Yesterday morning, Majka Burhardt and Alexa Siegel worked their way up the route in lean and mean conditions, providing high quality early ice season stoke.  Burhardt led the route and the two were back in the sun at the parking lot at 1:00pm after a dozen good ice sticks, 40 times that of thin sticks and mixed moves, and two bouts of screaming barfies over three pitches (a piece).

View up the Dike, 7:45 am October 19th and the moment of “Oh yeah! It’s in.” Photo by Majka Burhard

View up the Dike, 7:45 am October 19th and the moment of “Oh yeah! It’s in.” Photo by Majka Burhardt.

Alexa follows the thin but in first pitch. Photo by Majka Burhardt

Alexa follows the thin but in first pitch. Photo by Majka Burhardt.

Pitch two was dry on the traverse, a bit of everything in the hose, and sticks up top. Alexa finishes it off, photo by Majka Burhardt.

Pitch two was dry on the traverse, a bit of everything in the hose, and sticks up top. Alexa finishes it off. Photo by Majka Burhardt.

Looking up the final pitch— which (surprisingly) gave the most thoughtful climbing of the three. Photo by Majka Burhardt

Looking up the final pitch— which (surprisingly) gave the most thoughtful climbing of the three. Photo by Majka Burhardt.

Majka Burhardt stemming out the thin ice on pitch three. Photo by Alexa Siegel.

Majka Burhardt stemming out the thin ice on pitch three. Photo by Alexa Siegel.

“Ice season is ON— don’t let anyone tell you otherwise.” – Majka Burhardt

Majka-Alexa-Black-Dike-October-2015aAlexa Siegel works year round as a climbing guide for Cathedral Mountain Guides, Mooney Mountain Guides, The White Mountain Climbing Camp and The Kismet Rock Foundation. Last winter, Janet Wilkinson and Alexa started a Ladies Only Climbing Series with Cathedral Mountain Guides teaching women of all abilities ice climbing and mountaineering skills. She is a grassroots athlete for Outdoor Research and a member of Mountain Rescue Service.

Majka Burhardt is an author, professional climber, filmmaker, and the founder/director at Additive Adventure. She is an ambassador/athlete for Patagonia, Osprey Packs, Positive Tracks, Petzl, Scarpa, and Julbo and an American Mountain Guides Association Certified Rock Guide.

Find Majka at www.majkaburhardt.com and follow her at https://instagram.com/majkaburhardt/ and https://www.facebook.com/majkaburhardtofficial

 

Frankensteins South Face

Frankenstein South-Face

Some of the main climbs on the South Face and the New “Odin’s Tiers” – Jan. 11, 2015

Conditions are everything in ice climbing and they happened this past week on the South Face of Frankenstein Cliff. This extended cold spell and cloudy skies have brought in some great ice climbing on the South Face. On Saturday we climbed the rare visitor “Cocaine” in “Fat” conditions and had a grand view of Peter Doucette putting up his new climb “Odin’s Tiers”  NEI 6 – 25 meters, to the right of  “The Wrath of the Valkyrie”. The conditions could not have been better and it was a very busy place with as many as 14 climbers in sight at one time. Everyone wanted to take advantage of these conditions. The lighting, climbing, conditions and scenery were fantastic and I was lucky to be part of it. I felt like a kid in a candy store with my camera. I took as many photos as I could while waiting, belaying and dodging ice from above ;-).  Below are a few of the best photos. Enjoy!

Doug Millen

Click photos to enlarge


Odin’s Tiers

Frankenstein Cliff, South Face, Crawford Notch NH

FA: Peter Doucette with Majka Burhardt

Saturday January 10, 2015
Peter-New-Line

 

“Odin’s Tiers”  NEI6, and 25 meters long was protected with 2 tri-cams (brown and red), ice screws and a couple of slung icicles.  Most of the attachment points were shaded by small roofs or curtains of hanging ice so that was helpful. Like all the routes in the amphitheater it’s super sensitive to sun.

Odens Tier topo

Climb Topo – Peter Doucette

“It was fairly pumpy and technical with a lot of creative rests leaning against curtains and or locking legs behind them” – Peter Doucette

“Back in the NH swing of things” – Majka Burhardt

 

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Peter-New-Line-top

 


The Wrath of the Valkyrie

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Will styling on “The Wrath”


Cocaine

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Steve Larson enjoying a fat “Cocaine”.


An Aerial View

The South Face of Frankenstein Cliff, Crawford Notch NH – January 11, 2015

 

Flight by ARDU – Flying and  filming by Doug Millen

More on the South Face


Source: Facebook, Doug Millen & Peter Doucette – Mountain Sense Guides