“The ice swell was ON at Poko-Moonshine cliff this season, the winter of 2010- 2011. My friends Matt Horner, Matt McCormick, and Bayard Russell pioneered an amazing new mixed line just right of the Jeff Lowe test-piece, Gorillas in the Mist. Only one pitch remained to finish Endangered Species to the top of the cliff… and Kevin Mahoney was psyched…” – Freddie Wilkinson
On Friday January, 14. Bayard Russell, Matt Horner and I climbed a line on the “Big Wall” section of Poko-Moonshine in the Adirondacks. The line paralleled the legendary Jeff Lowe route Gorillas in the Mist which hasn’t seen a 3rd ascent since Alex Lowe and Randy Rackliff repeated it the day after the FA in 1997.
We called this new variant Endangered Species WI5+R M6+
Poko-O-Moonshine – Adirondacks, NY
Adirondack Mountainfest 2011
Story Up-Date 1/20/11 from Bayard Russell
True to Mountainfest tradition of establishing new climbs, Bayard Russell, Matt Horner & Matt McCormick established – “Endangered Species” M6+ NEI5+ R. The climb is just to the right of Jeff Lowes legendary line “Gorillas in the Mist”.
“It’s so cool that, after all these years, the Northeast continues to generate some of the most exciting winter climbing in the country” – Dougald MacDonald
We were treated with photos and a video of the ascent Sunday night at Matt McCormick’s slide show. A very impressive climb by some very motivated and committed climbers. Well done. See the video..
Many attempts over the years have been made on this section of cliff . Lack of good ice has always blocked the way. Back in 2008, Matt Horner tried the climb in an after-work ascent where he ended up lowering off his tools in the dark, that was the best anchor he could build in the thin, candled ice (see photo).
See Fifty favorite climbs: the ultimate North American tick list By Mark Kroese for information on Gorillas in the Mist
The Big Wall section of Poke-O. The thin strip of ice is the new route “Endangered Species”. Photo by Jim Lawyer
More on the NEice Forum
Source: Matt McCormick, Matt Horner, Bayard Russell, NEice Forum, Facebook & Climbing.com
Story Up-Date 1/20/11
“There are a couple of things that we did do, and a couple of things that we didn’t do; here’s the deal” – Bayard Russell