Thanks to all who came out to check out NEice’s presentation on building, flying and filming with our radio controlled helicopter fleet! We had a great time.
Here’s a few photos from the event by photographer Joel Dashnaw.
[nggallery id=40]By Courtney Ley
Did the recent warm up get you down? Did you think about rock climbing? Did you… actually rock climb? Once I get in my first ice of the season, there’s no turning back! And no small rise in temperature is going to stop this alpine train!
All aboard!
It was high noon on Mt. Lafayette’s Escadrille route by the time I finished the long approach. The sun was baking everything, including me!, but the ice was still hanging in! It’s a beautiful alpine route that leads directly to the summit.
An excellent mini-guide to the high routes on Mt. Lafayette and Mt. Lincoln can be found here:
Enjoy the ride and these photos!
[nggallery id=38]Photographs by Courtney Ley
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
September 25, 2013
New Paltz, N.Y. — Ground has broken in the Gunks!
The American Alpine Club and Mohonk Preserve are proud to announce that construction is underway at the Samuel F. Pryor III Shawangunk Gateway Campground. The long-anticipated and much-needed campground will be a major addition to the Shawangunk Mountains region’s lodging facilities.
The 50-acre campground will include approximately 50 campsites within walking distance to the Trapps and Near Trapps, which have hundreds of rock climbs. Located along Route 299, the campground is also just a short walk from the Mohonk Preserve Visitor Center.
The American Alpine Club, in cooperation with Mohonk Preserve, will manage the campground. Campground amenities will include an outdoor central gathering and cooking area, bathhouse facilities, and indoor space for visitors to gather during rainy weather. The anticipated date of completion is spring 2014.
“The AAC is dedicated to providing affordable lodging for climbers at world-renowned climbing destinations in need of such facilities,” said AAC Executive Director Phil Powers. “Climbers know the Gunks as one of the most storied and popular climbing areas in the country. This campground will give our community a great place to stay, and to gather, all while providing a cleaner and lower impact camping option just minutes from climbing.”
The American Alpine Club manages three other major lodging facilities for climbers: the Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch in Wyoming, the Hueco Rock Ranch in Texas, and the New River Gorge Campground in West Virginia.
Contacts:
Erik Lambert
Information & Marketing Director
The American Alpine Club
elambert@americanalpineclub.org
(303) 951-4572
Gretchen Reed
Director of Marketing & Communications
Mohonk Preserve
glreed@mohonkpreserve.org
(845) 255-0919, ext. 1243
– To search for new species of insects and reptiles that will link this fragile and vital mountain to the evolution of East Africa’s wildlife
– To build a conservation plan with the local community and a team of Mozambique-based conservationists that will ensure a thriving future for one of the world’s most precious biodiversity hotspots.
The Lost Mountain Project is pushing the bounds of science, adventure, & conservation on the 2,000′ cliff face of Mozambique’s 2nd highest mountain. This great project blends it all and is spearheaded by two local climbers Majka Burhardt and Sarah Garlick.
La Pomme d”Or – Fred Maltais
Every winter, skilled climbers take on the Pomme d’Or, a spectacular and perilous rock face along Rivière Malbaie. For permission to climb this ice wall in the park, you’ll need an access permit. Refer to Reservation Terms and Conditions for all the details.
Climbers must be in excellent physical condition and totally independent, since the ice wall is about 30 km from the closest telephone and off the park’s network of roads and trails. Under good weather conditions, it takes a full day of snowshoeing or off-trail skiing to reach the site.
If you are independent, climbing the Pomme d’Or requires a minimum stay of 3 days in the park.
We strongly recommend bringing a satellite telephone or a SPOT-type emergency message device. There is no emergency telephone on the site in the winter and the cell phone network does not serve the park’s territory.
http://www.sepaq.com/pq/hgo/index.dot?language_id=1
La Pommed D’or is located approximately 2.5 hours east of Quebect City. The nearest decent sized town is Malbaie, Quebec. You enter the Parc de Haute Gorges I believe and drive as far as they will allow, before you begin your ski approach.
It is mandatory to hold an Access Permit to climb the Pomme d’Or. To get one, you must apply in writing by filling out the appropriate form.
Once your itinerary is ready, you understand the associated risks and you consider yourself ready to assume them, you must fill out the Backcountry Access Permit Application form. Each member of the group must individually fill out the form. However, all applications for the same expedition must be sent in one mailing to the administrative office of the Parc national des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie.
Each application is analysed to make sure that the expedition respects instructions related to the mission of the national parks and that it will take place in the targeted sector. If your application is in order and the reception capacity has not been reached, a confirmation will be sent.
Allow for a 7-days waiting period from the time we receive your Pomme d’Or Access Permit Application. The cost is $10 /pers./night (maximum 8 nights), in addition to the park entry fee. These fees must be paid in full by credit card or cheque prior to your stay.
If you wish to modify the stay dates or replace members of your team, you must do so at least 72 hours prior to arrival by directly contacting the administrative office of the park concerned.
If you want to cancel your stay, you must do so at least 72 hours prior to arrival by directly contacting the administrative office of the park concerned. No refunds will be granted for a cancellation made less than 72 hours prior to arrival.
Before submitting an application for authorization to climb the Pomme d’Or, you must be aware that help is far away and that your safety is your responsibility. Adequate preparation is required. First ask yourself if you have the skills, abilities and fitness level to undertake this kind of expedition. Climbing the Pomme d’Or involves certain risks, and it’s important to know what they are so you can prepare for them and be ready to react appropriately.
We invite you to consult our tip sheets about activities and stays offered by Société des établissements de plein air du Québec (Sépaq). The Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l’escalade can help you plan your stay and your activities safely. Don’t hesitate to contact them.
No patrols are made at this time of year in this part of the territory. Emergency services are far away and access to the Pomme d’Or is particularly difficult. For incidents requiring immediate care or evacuation, wait time can be very long (sometimes several days). The isolation of this sector means that there is no cell phone service. A first aid kit and knowledge of how to apply first aid in remote areas are essential in emergency situations.
Costs related to search and rescue operations are solely the responsibility of the recipient. We strongly recommend checking whether or not your insurance company covers these costs. Otherwise, some private companies, such as Airmédic, offer the possibility of benefiting from such services by becoming a member of their organization.
No verifications will be made as to your return. It is your responsibility to give someone you trust a copy of your itinerary, making sure to indicate the date and times of your return and instructing the person to contact emergency services (911) in the event of your absence.
Minimizing our impact on the natural environment is a duty. The behavior you adopt during your stay at the park must constantly be guided by the desire to preserve the integrity of nature and our surroundings so that other climbers can fully enjoy the same privilege.
Parcs Québec considers the application of Leave no trace principles as the reference for behaviours in the national parks.
For safety reasons, it is recommended to go in groups of a minimum of 3 people. To minimize disturbance and impacts on the natural environment.
It is prohibited to make fires in the back country. Bring a camp stove for cooking.
– Source: PARCS QUÉBEC / PARC NATIONAL DES HAUTES-GORGES-DE-LA-RIVIÈRE-MALBAIE
* Click to enlarge
Below are the rankings of some popular climbing web sites. Now remember smaller is better. I left out the big guns, climbing, Rock and Ice, exct. as they are in a different league. But this will give you a feel of where we stand among our peers.
| Web Site | World Wide Rank |
| Mountain Project.com | 107135 |
| Super Topo.com | 181398 |
| Alpinist.com | 377495 |
| American Alpine Club.com | 958094 |
| NEice.com | 1466486 |
| Alpine Club of Canada.ca | 1614223 |
| Will Gadd.com | 1737577 |
| Gripped.com | 1841200 |
| Climberism.com | 1922600 |
| Metro Rock.com | 1924640 |
| Ouray Ice Park.com | 2150202 |
| Gunks.com | 2958114 |
| Gravsports Ice.com | 3184387 |
| Gravsports.com | 4978549 |
| New England Bouldering.com | 5029044 |
| NEclimbs.com | 6136644 |
| Escalade Quebec.com | 6506015 |
* Figures are from Alexa.com 1/4/2013
One month (Dec. 4, 2012 – Jan. 4, 2013)
Unique Visitors: 27,765
Page Views: 484,117
Online Photos of Ice Climbing: over 10,000
Value of items sold in the Classified: $55,206
Visits to the site this year increased by 100.12%
The Forum has over 65,000 Posts made by 4,757 Members
Type ice climbing in Google and we always come up on the first page, today we were #4
~ Doug Millen
Meet our newest team members..King Kong (right) and WooKong.
I designed and built the WooKong to be light and simple so we can bring it where we like to go, UP! The King Kong is the heavy lifter and ready for anything.
I was inspired by the Mammut video celebrating 150 years. http://vimeo.com/50029357 The use of RC helicopters for photography quickly became my newest addiction.
I want to show the ice climbing in the Northeast the same way, from a perspective we are not use to. I look forward to flying all winter to bring you the most spectacular images and movies I can capture.
We will be at the MountainFest Jan. 18-21, 2013 in the Adirondack’s for the grand unavailing of our efforts. Hope to see you there.
Doug Millen
PS…I want to send special thanks to team member Courtney Ley for all her help and enthusiasm. This project would not be the same without her.
To The Many Friends of Harvard Cabin,
Seasons Greetings!
The cabin is open for another season.
The cabin has been a busy place this Fall. Beginning in August with a small gathering brought together by Ted Carman, HMC President 1962-1963 and prime mover in the construction of Harvard Cabin, the club began to address a few routine maintenance related issues with the cabin in hopes of keeping it operational for another 50 years! In addition to regular maintenance, the club is also going through several stages of planning, permitting, and fund-raising for some larger maintenance needs along with some major improvements and safety upgrades. Of course, all changes will be subtle as to not disturb the look, feel, and operation of the Harvard Cabin we all know and love.
Renovations…
Having taken much longer then expected this Fall, the renovation of the Caretaker’s Den has kept caretakers from the past and present along with many club members and other volunteers busy for much of the Fall. Situated above the cabin entrance, many of you know the den was a cold, damp and dormant area that had been deteriorating over the last several years. Work began in Mid-August with the demolition of the existing framing, flooring, and insulation (think 30 years of mouse infestation!). Of course, all unusable debris had to find its way downhill and new materials uphill. I lost count of how many trips up the Tux Trail I personally made this Fall, never mind the countless trip made by other volunteers. Whatever the number, Future caretaker’s are in for a real treat thanks to the effort of so many!
After the demo-work was done, the supporting infrastructure was cleaned, disinfected, sanded, and sealed.. The existing fiberglass insulation was replaced with rigid foam insulation which helped with the elimination of rodent friendly gaps and cracks. We even added a new double-pane window to the loft! There is still a little work to be done before the project is complete, but it would suffice to say that we’re hopeful that we’ll be able to keep the warm air in and the rodents out! Click Herefor some more photos of work being done at the cabin over the last few months!
Once again, It is a great privilege to to be serving as Harvard Cabin Caretaker again this season! Thanks to HMC for having me back for yet another season! I’m looking forward to seeing many of you back at the cabin again this year. We’re setting-up better then we did last year, weather-wise. I am happy to see the persistent signs of the coming winter on the rock pile. Folks have really been getting after the early season ice over the last few weeks. Personally, I’ve been so busy with renovations, I haven’t made it past the cabin yet this season! Surely, that will change in the coming days.
Staying at the cabin…
Finally, I’d like to remind everyone that the Harvard Cabin is a public-use cabin operated by the Harvard Mountaineering Club on a first-come, first-serve basis. Everyone wishing to stay at the cabin must register at Pinkham Notch before heading uphill. The Harvard Cabin Register can be found at the Trail Information Desk at the Visitor Center during business hours and downstairs in the pack-up room after hours. The cabin sleeps 16 people per night. There is also room for 16 additional campers outside at the Harvard Tent Sites. Rates are $15.00 per person, per night inside, $10 per person, per night outside. US Currency Only. Be sure to read ALL instructions when signing-in so that you arrive prepared and able to fully enjoy your time at the cabin!
If you have any questions you can e-mail dbradley@college.harvard.edu or speak to a Trail Information Specialist at Pinkham Notch Visitor Center.
Let’s hope for a safe and snowy season! I look forward to seeing you soon!
Rich Palatino
Harvard Cabin Caretaker
Rich@powder-hound.com
NOTE – Harvard Cabin is not affiliated with the Appalachian Mountain Club. Harvard Cabin is maintained by Harvard Mountaineering Club for use by the general public. The cabin is operated under a special-use permit granted by the USDA Forest Service. Cabin space and tent-sites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis between December 1st and April 1st each year. Specific instructions for staying at the cabin can be found online at http://www.
When most climbers think of the climbing in Franconia Notch, one route immediately comes to the forefront of thought and discussion. This route has earned the reputation, colorful descriptions and epics that it has induced. In 1971 the trumpets were blown signaling the call to arms on this shadow shrouded line before it’s first ascent in December of the same year. Declared as one of the last unclimbed plumbs on the East Coast by the ice master himself, Yvon Chouinard, the reputation had started. “A black, filthy, horrendous icicle, 600′ high, unclimbed.” To this day, it is still touted as the “measuring stick” of the aspiring climber. The route is the Black Dike and everyone knows of it. The Dike is surely one of the most aesthetic routes in the Northeast. This climb has developed another purpose for many, that of herald to the on coming ice climbing season. Cannon Cliff is in easy view and dominates the notch. When the ice adorns the cliff’s streaked gray walls high above the notch, it is something truly inspiring and something to behold.
The Ghost & One Drop of Water
Even the most seasoned climber will feel the awe when rounding a corner on the highway. Then right before your eyes appears the line of Omega in full.
Omega
A ribbon colored in a hue of burnt yellow to orange, running from top to bottom. This route will surly get anyone excited regardless if you are aiming to climb it or not. However, besides Cannon Cliff and the well known Flume Gorge, there are other areas that tend to be over looked. Meanwhile, across the notch up high, lay alpine gems, and they come in early.
Sunset, Mt. Lincoln
Guarding the East Side of the notch lay a venerable mountain ridge over 400 million years old. The arctic alpine zone along the Franconia Ridge, though not as vast as the Presidential Range, has a unique feeling when one climbing there. A lost emotion is awakened by this place, brimmed with wonderful and wild remoteness. Getting to the routes can be scrappy affairs, visible slides with their huge iced slabs and choked corners, though easy by pure grade, are backcountry climbs and demand respect and commitment. The wondering that has been instilled in us as we have looked from the comfort of the car far below, can only be realized by way of plunging over deeply forested ridges, eskers and up trail-less drainages.
Franconia Notch
In Franconia Notch, the game is on right from the moment one leaves the car. It does not matter if your destination is to the East or West side. The talus of Cannon, though short can be epic. And the deep climbs on Lincoln & Lafayette are committing. Packed trails are followed for only a short distance.
Woodman / Dorcey, Mt. Lincoln
Deep snow on the approach, even for the well prepared can be an exhausting affair. But this is part of the flavor found on these peaks. Getting too the climb, then topping out on the summit is a physical crux and one not to be taken lightly. One other fact that is quite unique to the northeast, these climbs end at the summit of the peaks they are on.
Mt. Lincoln, Serpentine, Throat & Mullet (L to R)
Taking the early season plunge into both Lafayette and Lincoln will be a rewarding alpine experience. In November of this year while Huntington was getting hit by sunny, cloudless days, the Mullet Route on Lincoln with it’s NW aspect was alpine perfection.
The Serpentine Line
Lincoln’s Throat
Every year I am lucky enough to experience these mountains with their thought provoking climbing challenges. Clear feelings of awe and purpose are rediscover time after time. Moving through the higher ground of scrub fir and spruce, the journey to and attaining the clean, pristine summits, takes some of the weight of the world away. The approach to the climbing on Mt. Lafayette is longer and much more of an endeavor than those on Mt. Lincoln. If the weather is not so savory, this location is only for those totally ready to throw down the gauntlet and take the plunge. Suffice is it to say, both mountains require the spirit of adventure.
Across the road from Profile Lake, on the broad flank of Lafayette two excellent climbing areas reside. The steep Ace of Spades with its satellite routes nearby offer difficult climbing after a steep hillside is ascended.
Ace of Spades
A short distance to the South is the old landslide scar of the Big Slide, home of many interesting options. The first landslide to start the creation of this was about 1915. Several others followed with the last being in 1959. In the center of this slide is Short Stack. This route, followed to the slides top is long and much better than it may appear from the road. Within the slide there are hidden creases that carve into the mountain and run upward over very long distances. Before they fill with snow, these slices, headwalls and open slabs provide fun climbing. The seldom seen views that end with the climbing, high on Lafayette, will thrill the mind and stir the soul.
High in the Short Stack Area
The Flume and Echo Crag are justifiably popular. They are close to the road and have almost every type of climbing one can desire. The Flume Gorge, deep, narrow and filled to the brim with ice. It’s unique setting coupled with accessible mellow to extreme lines help create a place that has no peers. At the utmost north end of the notch is Echo Crag. Here one will find a fantastic spot for leading, for both new and experienced climbers. The long cliff system has chimneys, corners faces and mixed lines. And also protection options ranging from screws, bolts and passive gear.
The Echo Crag is the northern start of the complex Hounds Hump Ridge. This area has many routes along its western side. Further south up the Hump, near the Eaglet is the home of the Garcia-Vega. A rare to form route, but when climbable, it’s a beauty. The 180′ of climbing is well worth the hike up and right up there with other climbs of the same nature. Also there is a wide chimney to the right on the same wall that is quite hard. I did what I thought had to have been a first ascent of this gash in the early ’90’s. Only to find out later, two very rad guys did it two decades before. With the gear of that time, it must have been savage. Hats off gents for the route, Fire & Ice.
There are still many more climbs and areas worth exploring. My point was not to name them all, just a few and bring to light the mystery and beauty of the Notch.
I recommend Secrets of the Notch by Mr. Franconia himself, John Sykes. I’m unsure if this book can still be found, but have heard a new book is coming. Maybe it is out or perhaps I just dreamt it.
Cheers and enjoy the Notch.
~Alfonzo
Words & photos,
Alan Cattabriga
Concord NH
Condition Report – October 13, 2012
Mt Katahdin, Baxter State Park, Maine
Alfonzo enjoying great early season ice on “Piggy-Wiggy”, Katahdin, ME 10-13-2012
And we were!
Alfonzo made reservations at the Roaring Brook campsite over a month ago knowing it is hard to get campsites over consecutive days this time of year. We were planning to rock climb, but with the forecast calling for cold weather, the ice tools were packed along with the rock gear. You never know when you might need your ice tools.
We arrived Friday night to light snow showers. Rock climbing still seemed possible to some with the forecast . Our friends Mike & Cassy packed for the Armadillo. Alfonzo and I packed for ice. We had a good feeling about the conditions leading up to Saturday. And with the forecast calling for low teens at 4000′ overnight we committed to ice climbing and packed light to move fast.
We were greeted with clear sky’s and temps in the 20’s Saturday morning. As we walked up the trail, the ground became more frozen and signs of solid ice were everywhere…our pace quickened for we knew climbable ice would be found.
As we walked into the Chimney pond area, the grandness of the South Basin with a winter look welcomed us. There was ice everywhere. Better than we expected and better than last years trip in early December. And the Cilley-Barber was in! All the planets had aligned. With pure luck we had impeccable timing, creating the perfect early season situation.
After checking in with Mark the ranger at chimney pond we headed UP! We chose the biggest moderate line we could see. This was the start of the “Chauvin-Cole” route up to “Piggy-Wiggy” and then to the ridge. The gift of early season ice was given again, for in the winter most of this climb would be a snow slog. We had water ice, tail to tip.
We climbed about 1500 ft of good and sometimes challenging water ice on a spectacular day. This was the best early season ice I have ever climbed. We were so lucky!
Many thanks to Baxter State Park, a great park with excellent hospitality. And special thanks to Ranger Rob and Mark for being so excited about early season ice climbing.
~ Doug Millen
[ngg_images source=”galleries” container_ids=”77″ sortorder=”795,800,797,798,799,801″ display_type=”photocrati-nextgen_basic_thumbnails” override_thumbnail_settings=”0″ thumbnail_width=”240″ thumbnail_height=”160″ thumbnail_crop=”1″ images_per_page=”20″ number_of_columns=”0″ ajax_pagination=”0″ show_all_in_lightbox=”0″ use_imagebrowser_effect=”0″ show_slideshow_link=”0″ slideshow_link_text=”[Show slideshow]” order_by=”sortorder” order_direction=”ASC” returns=”included” maximum_entity_count=”500″]Photos by Doug Millen & Alan Cattabriga
Your ice climbing connection for New England, the Northeast and Beyond!