Too Warm? Beware!

Dangerous Liaisons

Warm spells can create freeze-thaw cycles that are the stuff of new route dreams. But, as NEIce member RAH found last week, underestimating how much warmth is too much could have been fatal.

Now your see it, now your don't!

Now you see it, now you don't!

For the whole story, see RAH’s post:

https://www.neice.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=56833#Post56833

Another close call last winter at Willoughby for NEice member dpowers.  A huge water release: https://www.neice.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6941

December 7, 2010

Winter! Here it comes…

Mike Garity on an icy Pinnacle Gully, Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH - Alan Cattabriga

Mike Garity topping out on Pinnacle Gully, Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH 12-05-10 - Alan Cattabriga

After the last thaw, most of the good climbing has been up high. That is about to change. After torrential rains last week the cold is back with  a vengeance. A temperature of -4 is forecast for Lake Willoughby VT Thursday night. Look for perfect ice making conditions over the next week.

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It's Back!

The Ice has Returned to the usual Early Season Locations

After a week +  of warm weather, which took it’s toll on what little ice we had, the cold temps have returned! Climbable ice was found in the Adirondacks & Northern New Hampshire over the weekend.

Rowdy Dowdy on the thin start of 'Screw and Climbaxe'. A few worthless stubby screws halfway up. Half a dozen parties climbing the two routes that were 'in'. - rockytop

Rowdy Dowdy on the thin start of 'Screw and Climbaxe'. A few worthless stubby screws halfway up. Half a dozen parties climbing the two routes that were 'in'. - 11/21/10 North Face of Pitchoff, Adirondacks NY - Rockytop

Right on Schedule!

The Black Dike – Cannon Cliff, Franconia Notch NH

November 3, 2010
Michael Wejchert leading pitch 3 of the "Black Dike" - Photo by Ryan Stefiuk

Michael Wejchert leading pitch 3 of the “Black Dike” – Photo by Ryan Stefiuk

It looks like the 2010-2011 ice season is right on schedule!

“Great conditions were found on the right exit today. Plenty of ice up there. The sun was cooking Fafnir and Quartet, which both have some ice on them.” – Ryan Stefiuk  – Big Foot Mountain Guides

The Black Dike (WI 4-5), Franconia notch NH is usually the first high quality ice climb to come in and it usually happens this first week of November. We are off to a great start…lets hope it continues!

See more photos…

-Doug Millen

 

YES!

Let the “Games” begin!

Damnation Gully – Huntington Ravine, Mt Washington NH

Sunday October 10, 2010

AlfonzoEarlyIce1

Alfonzo finds some early ice on Damnation Gully, Huntington Ravine 10/10/10 – Doug Millen

 

While others were climbing warm rock at Rumney, or having their Sunday coffee, Alfonzo, the alpine junkie was in his element climbing some early season ice. We found more ice than expected, and it was well bonded, but by mid morning the sun was starting to take it’s toll. Looks like a great start to the season. Look for more photos in the gallery .

Doug Millen

The Ice Season is Off and Running!

Eugene Kwan follows on Hassig's Direct variation of The Black Dike on Cannon Cliff. (Photo by Kevin Mahoney)

Eugene Kwan follows on Hassig’s Direct variation of The Black Dike on Cannon Cliff. (Photo by Kevin Mahoney, IFMGA/UIAGM Guide, Mahoney Alpine Adventures)

Finally, colder temperatures have arrived, albeit a bit colder than most of us would have liked to start with but ice has formed all over the Northeast now. Many of the classic lines are in and the season is solidly underway! Even the often elusive “Called on Account of Rains”, WI5+, at Lake Willoughby has formed and been climbed already!

Millen Machine and Alfonzo are up in Baxter State Park this week testing themselves and the new climbing regulations. We’re looking forward to a fantastic trip report and great photos as always from the duo!

Enjoy, send hard, be safe and stay warm!


The Black Dike, Finally!

Franconia Notch, NH  12/08/09

The Black Dike - erik Eisele- RAS 12-8-09Erik Eisele leading the 2nd pitch of the Black Dike in lean conditions –  December 8th, 2009
Photo by RAS

In normal years the Black Dike usually is fat by now. The first Ascents usually happen in the first week of November. Jim Shimburg has climbed it in early October. This is as late a start as I can remember….Doug

Condition Report 12/8/09

Eguide  – Franconia Notch, NH

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Season off to a slow start!

But, if you want to climb ice, you can find it!

Al-Tucks11-9-09-Cover

11/8/09 – Alfonzo taking advantage of the beautiful day and of the frozen moss – Off the Boott Spur, Tuckerman Ravine, Mt. Washington NH
Photo by Doug Millen (c) 2009

See more photos

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09/10 Ice Season Under Way!

Pinnacle Gully, Mt. Washington NH

pinnacle-gully-10/15/09Broken Spectre approaches the second belay on Pinnacle Gully, Mt. Washington NH. 10/15/09. The route had to cross the open river at that point to continue.

More Photos

Photo by Alden Pellett – Vermont Daily News.com