The Black Dike
Cannon Cliff, Franconia Notch NH
The most coveted early season ice climb in the Northeast!
Year after year “The Dike” delivers for enthusiastic Ice Climbers, and the aspiring Alpinists. Typically in the early season, it’s a race to get the coveted first ascent. This usually happens somewhere between mid-October and mid-November. In bad years, not until early December. Early season ascents can be hazardous with poor protection, delaminated ice, and falling rock. Later in the winter climbers battle cold temperatures, spindrift, thin ice, and even avalanche hazards. Some days it’s a pleasant climb, and easily managed by your average team. On other days, very experienced climbers have all they can do to get up the climb. Unfortunately with its rich history, great climbing, and relatively easy approach, the crowds have been a problem. Early starts on Friday, Saturday and Sunday usually put you among a group of climbers all gunning for the climb. Climbing under others on the route is not recommended. Weekdays or 2nd shift is your better option. Be prepared, have fun, and never underestimate “The Black Dike”.
More information can be found in “An Ice Climbers Guide to Northern New England” by S. Peter Lewis and Rick Wilcox.
Also, see The Hazards of Early Season Ice Climbing
Enjoy the articles below, they offer some great photos and information for this spectacular climb.
Articles
The Black Dike 10-26-18
An October ascent of the Black Dike 10-26-18
“The Dike”, She GO! 10-26-16
The Black Dike Cannon Cliff, Franconia State Park NH October 26, 2016 Peter Doucette and Keith Sidle found just enough winter on Cannon cliff today to climb “The Black Dike”. They found thin, wet and bonded ice with just enough gear to get up the climb. Peter always seems to be in the right place, at […]
Burhardt and Siegel Start off the Ice Season with Impressive Ascent
The Black Dike October 19, 2015 The first ascent of the Black Dike on Cannon Cliff each year has always been the herald of the new ice season. This year, it came early and swift! Yesterday morning, Majka Burhardt and Alexa Siegel worked their way up the route in lean and mean conditions, providing high-quality early […]
The Black Dike, Early Season by Erik Eisele
It begins each year with the first frost. Around the time the calendar flips to October, I find myself sneaking glances at the high peaks forecast and pulling out my screamers. Rock season is still in full swing, but I start calling a few ice partners to sort out schedules. Three days, we tell each […]
Right on Schedule!
The Black Dike Cannon Cliff, Franconia Notch NH November 3, 2010 It looks like the 2010-2011 ice season is right on schedule! “Great conditions were found on the right exit today. Plenty of ice up there. The sun was cooking Fafnir and Quartet, which both have some ice on them.” – Ryan Stefiuk – Big Foot […]
The Black Dike, Finally!
Canon Cliff, Franconia Notch, NH December 08, 2009 Erik Eisele leading the 2nd pitch of the Black Dike in lean conditions – December 8th, 2009. Photo by RAS In normal years the Black Dike usually is fat by now. The first Ascents usually happen in the first week of November. Jim Shimburg has climbed […]
Photos of The Black Dike
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