Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival 2012

February 3rd – 5th 2012

The Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival is one of the premier climbing events in the country. Join us as we celebrate the adventure, the fun, and the camaraderie of ice climbing and winter mountaineering, here in one of the finest waterfall ice climbing destinations in North America. This year we are also offering an AIARE Level I Avalanche Course.

IMCS Ice Fest home page

International Mountain Climbing School

The Ice Fest Blog

Sign up Today! 603-356-7064
We are now taking reservations for all Ice Fest 2012 courses and clinics.

10% discount for College Students!
You must mention you are a college student at the time of registration and you must bring your valid college ID to the ice fest.


Course Descriptions

Friday Clinics and Climbs

Saturday Clinics and Climbs

Sunday Clinics and Climbs

Registration and Cancellation Information

Be Sure to Visit all of our great sponsors

Why Climb with us at Ice Fest?

  • You’ll learn from the absolute best
  • You’ll meet lots of other climbers and maybe a future climbing partner
  • There are courses for all abilities
  • Jaw dropping videos
  • A slide show and talk by the one and only Will Gadd
  • A very cool indoor dry-tooling competition
  • Free Gear Demos!
  • Free Food
  • It’s Fun

Friday evening will feature A multi-Media show with Will Gadd and our dry-tooling competition at the Cranmore Fitness Center climbing wall along with a raffle. On Saturday night we’ll have some awesome videos, you’ll have a chance to try dry tooling on the Cranmore Wall and even try the competition course.

This years guest guides will include: Kevin Mahoney, Mark Synnott, Freddie Wilkison, Emilie Drinkwater, Bayard Russell, Matt McCormick, Ben Gilmore, Majka Burhardt, Nick Yardley, Janet Bergman, Jim Shimberg, Andrea Charest and Silas Rossi.

And, of course, the awesome IMCS Guides; Brad White, Dave Kelly, Zeb Jakub, Craig Taylor, Elliot Gaddy, Sam Bendroth, Maury McKinney, Chris Magnus, Craig John, Pat Ferland, Matt Shove, Erik Eisele, Frank Carus, Paul Cormier, Paul McCoy

Since its inception 19 years ago this event has been eagerly anticipated by ice climbers in the Eastern United States and is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. It is intended to be a celebration of ice climbing and winter mountaineering and the people that make it a part of their lives. It continues to provide a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technicalclinics and privately guided climbs. The Mt. Washington Valley is one of the finest waterfall ice climbing destinations in North America. Each year we offer a variety of skills-based clinics and exciting slide shows with featured climbers and guides from the New England area and around the world.

Thanks to our title sponsor Outdoor Research

Sign up Today! 603-356-7064

International Mountain Climbing School (IMCS) phone: 603-356-7064

email: guides@ime-usa.com

Source: Ice Fest Blog, NEice.com, IME

 


Seams Thin

New mixed climb at Trollville

“Seams Thin” – M6

Location: Trollville (Duck’s Head), Jackson NH

FA: Peter Doucette & Erik Eisele

Date: January 2012

Seams Thin

Gear: No bolts but five pins. And the rack is pretty specific — doubles on small cams, offset nuts and a number four Camalot.

Descent: Rappel the route.

“Kind of a sad season thus far, but we’re making things happen” – Erik

 

Photos by Erik Eisele  –  Peter Doucette climbing.

Source: Erik Eisele, Facebook, Mountain Sense Guides

 

Smuggs Ice Bash 2012

2012 Alpinist/Smuggs Ice Bash

The 6th annual Smuggs Ice Bash – the local’s ice climbing festival at the foot of Smuggler’s Notch. We are working out the details of this year’s Bash, be prepared for some great clinics, a wicked slide show, and the Petzl drytooling comp at Petra Cliffs on Friday night!!**Clinic registration and information hereThe main venue this year will be at the Smuggler’s Notch Inn, right in the village of Jeffersonville. There are rooms available upstairs, a great pub downstairs, and all the vendors in the middle. Mention the Ice Bash for a room discount. For more lodging options, click here. There is always free winter camping in Smuggler’s Notch for the thrifty.
Kick off Ice Bash at Petra Cliffs in Burlington on Friday, January 27th – 6pm: Competition begins – watch the area’s best climbers battle it out to a winner take all finish.  $5 spectator fee, food & beverages provided.  Competitors – $250 cash prize, for both men’s and women’s categories.  Limited entry – email your intent to compete with a short climbing resume toinfo@sunriseadventuresports.com

 

Bert Severin
Sunrise Mountain Guides
www.sunriseadventuresports.com

“Head to VT on January 27th for the  – WOW, Sterling Rope & La Sportiva are giving up $250 to the top men’s and women’s climber at the indoor drytooling comp Friday night at Petra Cliffs, Burlington VT!”

“Guest guide and slide show by Freddie Wilkinson – Karakoram Frontiers: A season of first ascents in the Himalayas’ last refuge. Images/videos/storytelling by Freddie Wilkinson. Jeffersonville Tavern, Saturday 1/28. Freddie will also MC the comp at Petra Cliffs in Burlington on Friday night!

Conditions are good and getting better in the Notch. Look for NEice at the trail head and get some hot soup! – Doug

Diary of an NEice Junkie…

How much time do you spend on NEice?  Are you an addict?  Do you come home from a day of climbing and immediately check to see what else people were doing?  Do you have a regular schedule?  Or do you just check it out whenever the time seems right?  These were some questions I was asking myself, so I figured I’d actually keep track:

 

Confession* by Patrick Cooke
 
 

I put this together in the week leading up to MLK Weekend.  It only covers the weekdays, but you get the picture!

 

Monday:

7:00-7:45  Breakfast, Mindless drivel on TV – Checking photos and boards… what got done over the weekend?

12-1:15 Grading…. Sanity Break (photos, conditions)!  How did I manage 4+ hours without checking NEice?

12:45-1:10  Touch base w/ a friend about his experience on Repentance on Sunday

1:45-2:00  Students completing a reading for class, might as well check the boards while they catch up (nothing earth shattering, but hey, Poko is building)

2:15-2:20  Check N. Conway weather for weekend while students start next reading assignment

Looking Good!

3:00-5:00  Catch up on Grading/Planning that I ignored so I could go climbing this weekend… resist urge to check NEice compulsively

5:05  Give in and check boards

7:40  Waiting for Dinner to finish heating in the oven, don’t want to continue to tackle the work to-do list…. hitting the forums (someone lost a hat on Shoestring Saturday…)

8:00  Email partners to figure our who can get out over the weekend.

9:10  Wife and friend discussing God and religion…  ice climbing seems like a better way to spend a Sunday morning than other activities.  Might as well see what people are posting on the forums.

Tuesday:

7:15  A little NEice for breakfast… nice little review of Julbo glasses by Alfonzo.

9:50  Advisees don’t screw up enough… no real issues to address with them, anything new happening on the boards? (not really)

10:37  Students reading a section for a discussion… killing time looking at photopost

3:13  Feel compelled to see what’s happening on NEice… starting to think I may have a problem…

4:25  Apparently “Franks” and “Willo” are cool now, but not with everyone.

4:45-7:20  Long stream of emails with friends to figure out plans for upcoming weekend.

7:29  Grading, the curse of all teachers… sadly, nothing really exciting to report on the board or photopost  : (

9:00  Watching the Bruins game  since I can’t bring myself to do more work tonight… adding to discussion of tethers for leashless tools.  Only checked NEice 7 times today…

Wednesday:

8:20  Check the boards and see this:  Smike’s latest bag of lies

Does anyone even understand this?

 

1:25  It’s been 5 hours… gotta get my fix!  It seems the rediscovery of tethering leashless tools is the topic du jour.

7:30  There really isn’t all that much going on right now on the boards… someone needs to go check out conditions and post up!

8:00  On phone, wife and friend watching trashy TV… sadly nothing really new happening on the boards.  This may actually be the fewest number of times I’ve been on the site all winter… obviously I need to remedy this!

Thursday:

7:20  With the weekend coming, it’s time to start paying more attention to the conditions posts.

4:25  Sadly, this is actually a noteworthy accomplishment… 9 hours without NEice.  Maybe I’m not as addicted as I thought I was.  Apparently both Rock and Ice and Climbing are running some pieces on Catskills Ice/Mixed.  Both with shots, and at least one of the articles, from NEice contributors!

 

Rock and Ice Issue 200

6:40  Killing time before I need to go proctor studyhall…  This project is not nearly as interesting as I thought it would be… post up people!!!!!

8:47  Taking a well-deserved break from lesson planning/busting freshmen who are on facebook instead of working…   It’s kind of mind-blowing what topics will be popular:  Leashing leashless tools just reached 40 posts.

9:48  Can’t….. Stay….. Away…..

10:53  Can I go to bed yet? Damn dorm duty! Oohhhh, new photos on the photopost

Friday:

7:15  Literally nothing new on the boards… I really thought this would be a more exciting post!

1:12  Done teaching, time to drive North… one quick check of things!

5:05  Settled in up in NH, things are picking up on the boards…

6:16  The consensus on the board is it’s going to be COLD this weekend, and green wool hunter’s pants are “in”!

10:07  After an hour of kicking ass and taking names in MarioKart with my brothers I checked the boards and wished I hadn’t.

 

Well, there we have it, we’ll have to leave the weekend edition for another day!

 

*Like any experiment, observation affects results…  Let’s just say, this actually makes me look less addicted then I think I am!

 

 

 

 

Ice Vikings

Climbing Icebergs in Newfoundland

by Don Wargowsky

A team of 6 non-pro climbers travels to Newfoundland to climb icebergs in the Atlantic Ocean.

Source: Vimeo, Creater(NEice Forum)

This video is entered in the Fort William Mountain Festival Film Competition

Québec Ice Trip 2007

Comments:

“Goddamn, that was good!” – Mike R

“Wow didn’t expect that. High production quality of routes in the Northeast. The China Shop segment was cool.” – Smike

“The best video I have seen on Northeast ice climbing. Great to see climbs and people I know in such a well done video.” – Doug

Source: Petzl, Dailymotion

Harvard Cabin Report – 01.17.12

Greetings Climbers and Mountaineers,

Happy New Year! It’s been a while since I’ve been able to get my hands on the keyboard for any length of time. Holiday week was quieter then anticipated, New Years Eve was rocking, and the first week of 2012 was unexpectedly jam packed – inside and out – despite the persistent talus!

Snow, Snow, Snow – Finally!!!

So far this season, an extra value point should be added to commitment ratings attached to climbable ice routes in New England! Thankfully, (hopefully) getting to the cabin and into Huntington Ravine will be a wee bit easier after our first major winter storm system of the season is done gifting us with much needed snow! It’s been dumping all day…..it would seem that winter has FINALLY arrived! Here in the White Mountains anyway. As with most of the country, I’m sure you are still dealing with persistent warm temps and rain! It seems you now have an opportunity to escape to a bit of winter! Come on up!

As much fun as it was skiing the 6+ inches of low-density, super dry, east coast POW, as I headed down the Sherburne Ski Trail this afternoon, this storm is going to be hard-pressed to provide the snow-totals we could really use. The water-bars on the Sherb are far from full. However, I’m not complaining, it now looks and feels like winter! The turns were soft and velvety and, for now, the trails are pleasantly skinnable. It was surely dumping on the Rock Pile today. Arriving at Pinkham, I was even tempted to throw down some dinero for some lift service this afternoon but was curtailed by “early season” hours of operations at the local ski hill. Oh well, it can only get better from here on out! Keep your fingers crossed!

Reminders and Close Calls

Even before the new snow fell, the extended early season had yielded a few turns here and there. I’ve had a couple of great days skiing in Tuckerman Ravine. Of course, it’s quality over quantity. From lower angle aspects in the bowl to top-bottom runs in Left Gully, powder stashes to frozen debris, it’s all been there. In all honesty, however, there  haven’t been many skiers on the mountain so far this season and for good reason. Mainly, the approach and egress. Furthermore, snow pack conditions have been variable and testy, even before 5-Scale Forecasting began for the season. If you haven’t already, you can read about a few significant early season incidents that have occurred over the last couple of weeks. Definitely worth the read and to serve as a reminder of the dangers that exist in the playground we all know and love! Click Here to read the summaries for incidents so far this season. If we take time now to prepare ourselves mentally, perhaps we can prevent the need for further entries this season.

5 Scale Avalanche Danger Rating in Effect

Speaking of which, if you haven’t heard, the 5-Scale avalanche rating system was implemented for the season on January 5th, 2012. It was a long time coming, but conditions finally warranted to move from General Advisory. We can now expected daily updates on Avalanche Conditions in Tuckerman and Huntington Ravine along with a the other normally forecast areas like Hillman’s Highway and the lower snow fields. But, you already knew this because you visit http://www.MountwashingtonAvalancheCenter.org everyday or are otherwise informed through the variety of Social Media Outlets that the center uses to get the word out! There is no excuse not to know before you go. If you are unfamilar with the system, you can learn more by Clicking Here. and, if crossing paths, be sure to thank the hard-working and super dedicated Snow Rangers we are fortunate to have here in New Hampshire!

Harvard Cabin Trail Sign

Finally, a much needed and very much appreciated sign pointing mountain travelers towards Harvard Cabin, as been posted at the intersection of the Tuckerman Ravine Trail and the Fire Road. Since I’ve been caretaker, and certainly with the delayed opening of the Lion Head Winter Route, many guests have arrived at the cabin via an unintended visit to Hermit Lake. Always a thrill for the Tux Caretaker, especially around midnight on a Friday night. It may be the smallest sign in the White Mountain National Forest, but it sure is appreciated! As I’ve been told all of my life, “Good things come in small packages!”. Once again, Thanks to the Forest Service Snow Rangers for making this happen! I should mention, that until the thick of winter, taking the Tuckerman Ravine Trail to the Fireroad is the preferred and most efficient approach to the cabin. Even with a full winter snowpack, the well-travelled Tuckerman Ravine Trail is the fast and easiest means to getting to and from the cabin, especially at night.

Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest – Febuary 3-5, 2012

As the weekend approaches, details of the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2012 are emerging daily! New guest guides are being announced, more sponsors, and promotions, oh and don’t forget, Harvard Mountaineering Club will be part of the fun this year! So, get signed up for your clinics and get ready to have a blast picking your way trough the valley!!! It is w-IN-ter!

Weekend Update – Winter is here!

Well, it’s about time for me to head back up-hill. I’m happy to have finally had the time for another update. This weekend is looking extra-wintry. While Sunday is looking bluebird, the temps will be frigid and winds fierce and shifting. This is going to make the alpine extra challenging. Included in this challenge will be dynamic snow and avalanche conditions. You should look forward to tomorrows Weekend Update from the Mount Washington Avalanche Center, posted at http://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org.

If we are forced to stay low this weekend, stay postive! The season has already been quite delayed already and, as I tell guests every week, if you are patient this mountain will reward you. This weekend maybe what the mountains needs to finally complete it’s transition to winter, making mountain travel safer and easier. Give The Rock Pile the time it needs and you are sure to enjoy a long and productive season.

Be Safe, Be Conservative, and Be at Harvard Cabin,

Rich Palatino
Harvard Cabin Caretaker
Rich@powder-hound.com

NOTE – Harvard Cabin is not affiliated with the Appalachian Mountain Club. Harvard Cabin is maintained by Harvard Mountaineering Club for use by the general public. The cabin is operated under a special-use permit granted by the USDA Forest Service. Cabin space and tent-sites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis between December 1st and April 1st each year. Specific instructions for staying at the cabin can be found online at

http://www.HarvardMountaineering.org

 

Mountainfest 2012 Wrap-up

The Adirondack Mountainfest 2012,  Keene NY

Mountainfest 2012

Sunday, January 15

Once again, the Adirondack Mountainfest was a great combination of  people, places and the thing we love….. climbing ice.  First of all many thanks go out to the folks and the venue that make this event one that is very special. Also thanks to sponsors, guides and the folks that participate. Without you all this would not happen.

To those that do a ton of work……

Vinny McLelland and the great staff at the Mountaineer.  These folks are  knowledgeable, super friendly and know the conditions and the area like they know their products. Also a special thanks goes out to Nick Gully &  Drew Haas and to all the kids for making the raffles fun. I have to mention the example Drew gave of proper layering at Emilie’s show was nicely done.

Now to the venue,  Rock & River . Thank you to the owner Ed Palen, the staff  and a huge thanks to Jenny, Nancy & Julia.  These awesome ladies provided some of the best meals one could have ever wished for and let Doug and I share their kitchen like we were family. I almost have no words worthy enough for the venue , it’s such an amazing environment.  I will just simply say Rock & River is a beautiful place nestled in the quintessential Adirondack setting.

And lastly the slideshows. For me slideshows are almost always a exercise in staying awake for they are always too long.  However the gods must have heard my thoughts and we all were treated to three wonderful shows loaded with humor and spectacular images.

Thank you to; Zoe Hart, Bayard Russell, Matt McCormick and Emilie Drinkwater. ( that pie chart was the best! )

Images from the Cascade Pass clinics run by Don Mellor, Mark Meschinelli, Matt Horner & Matt McCormick. And the NEice soup delivery.

Word!

~ Alan

More reports on Mountainfest 2012

Day one Report

Day two Report

Look for more  soon:  “Rollies” at the Bivy and a look at the “ice rack” of Adirondack hard man, Joe Szot.

Mountainfest 2012 – Day two report

Some clinics, soup delivery & a few new pieces of gear….

20120115-094729.jpg

The new Cassin  X Dream

20120115-094807.jpg

The Black Diamond Stinger

20120115-094842.jpg

Chapel Pond Canyon clinic

 

Doug making the delivery into the "Canyon"

 

Otis Mountain clinic

 

20120115-094903.jpg

Keese Lane giving some tools a run

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Zoe Hart enjoying a cup of hot soup

 

20120115-095158.jpg

Plenty of hot soup for the climbers on this cold day.

 

Mountainfest 2012 – Day one report

The 16th annual Mountainfest 2012 is under way.

A cold and frosty start.

Breakfast at Rock & River

Matt and Bayard talking about the up coming day of guideing

All the gear you want to demo.

Stay tuned for updates during the Fest.