Mixed Climbing in the Green Chasm

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Silas Rossi about to get into the business. “Look at that CRACK! It overhangs, has few feet, and the hooking is in obvious. The top few feet were glazed with ice, making it extra hard. It felt like full on M8 on top rope; harder while trying to fiddle in gear.” – Erik Eisele + Click to Enlarge

Mount Webster, Crawford Notch NH

Looking up The Green Chasem

Looking up The Green Chasem

“The line runs right up the obvious overhanging face, although it isn’t the diagonaling crack. On the right side of the face is a straight-up-and-down crack. The ice at the start is obscured as well. The corner above is the obvious finish” – Erik Eisele

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Silas on the ice

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Source: Erik Eisele, facebook, NEClimbs – Photos by Erik Eisele. Silas Rossi of Alpine Logic climbing

Northeast climbers win Piolet d’Or!

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Piolet d'Or winners 2012

Piolets d’Or 2012

The 2012 recipients are:  Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson (USA) for their ascent of Saser Kangri II (7,518m), India.

The first ascent by experienced U.S. climbers, Freddie Wilkinson, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson of 7518 meter Saser Kangri II in India garnered the trio a 2012 Piolet d’Or Award.

The summit is the second highest previously unclimbed mountain in the world. Their climb, “The Old Breed”, WI4 M3, 1700m, is a great example of committing lightweight alpine-style climbing at high altitude. They gained the summit by ascending the steep 1,700 metre south-west face over four days of climbing, utilizing three bivouacs. According to Alpinist magazine, “Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine style in the history of mountaineering.”

The trio used special lightweight ice hammocks designed by Richey to create flat bivi sites on the route.

Way to go guys!!!!

for more about their ascent: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11x/n…d-highest-peak

Also see: https://www.facebook.com/thepioletsdor  / http://www.pioletsdor.com/

~rockytop

Photo / Source: https://www.facebook.com/thepioletsdor

 

Cover Photo – 3.20.12

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Cilley-Barber – Katahdin, Maine

Derby leading the crux pitch of C-B

Derby leading the crux pitch of  the “Cilley-Barber” IV NEI 4.  South Basin, Katahdin, Maine.  3-12-12

Photo by AOC

Joe Szot – GONE!

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 Adirondack Climbing Legend Dies

Joe Szot at Mountainfest 2012

The Rollie Master, Joe Szot

Joe Szot, 51, died of a heart attack while rock climbing in the Shawangunks Mountains of NY,  March 14, 2012

Joe was climbing a route and started feeling poorly.  He asked to be lowered. Once on the ground he stopped breathing. His partner called 911 and preformed CPR till help arrived. They could not save him.

Joe Szot was bigger than life and a fixture in the Adirondack climbing community. He will be missed by many and Keene Valley will never be the same. Our best to his family, friends and all that knew him. Please respect their privacy during this difficult time.

More details as they become available.

– Doug Millen

Feature photo: New Years fire works at the “Bivy”. To you Joe!  RIP

 

Dropline – March 12, 2012

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Frankenstein Cliff, Crawford Notch NH

Rob-Point on Dropline

With the Notch dropping below, Rob Point heads up the super exposed “Dropline” NEI 5.

 

Photo by Klimbermac 

Astro Turf

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Astro Turf (IV M9, WI 4+ R)

Lake Willoughby Vermont

FA: Matt McCormick and Josh Hurst

Josh Hurst at the roof of “Astro Turf” – Photo by Matt McCormic – +click to enlarge

On Saturday Jan 7, 2005, Josh Hurst and I climbed a new route in the central section of Mt. Pisgah. “Astro Turf” start as for Aurora about 150’ right of Super-Nova in the right facing ice/turf gully on the left side of the Star man buttress. The first 2 pitches follow Aurora.

1. Climb the 40’ right facing ice/turf gully to the big snow ledge and belay below the left facing turf and rock corner capped by a chockstone.

2. M5 – Dry tool into and up the left facing groove past one fixed pin and tunnel under the chockstone capping the groove. Belay immediately after the chockstone at the fixed nut/pin anchor.

3. M6/WI 4+R – Standing on the chockstone, dry tool left until established on the ice. There is a fixed angle and nut that can be found at the stance at the end of the traverse. The pin is reachable after stepping up immediately after the traverse. This pin may be covered in ice depending on the conditions but can be dug out against the main black wall. Once across the traverse, climb 80-90 degree thin ice for a 30-40 ft run out on to thicker ice. Climb thicker ice to the top of the ice smear and belay

4. M9 – Dry tool up into the shallow groove past 2 bolts and small cam placements. At the end of the groove, reach up and clip the bolt in the 6’ roof then pull strenuously out the roof past 2 more bolts and up the 90 degree thin ice to the ledge above.

5-6. WI 5 – Climb the center of three flows to the top as for (Starman?).

Standard rack needed plus ice screws.

Topo map of the climb

– Matt McCormick

Road Trip – Newfoundland Ice 2012

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Mike Wejchert climbing in Newfoundland

Michael Wejchert leading out of the belay ledge on a WI5 pitch of an 800-foot route in Gros Morne Park, Newfoundland. Windy and snowing hard – Alden Pellett (click to enlarge)

Newfoundland Ice

by Michael Wejchert

“Walt Nichol, man of few understandable words, slows the snowmobile to a stop about twenty feet form my battered Toyota Corolla and I jump out. For the third time in as many days, Alden Pellett, Ryan Stefiuk and I thank Walt and step out of his cedar sleigh. We’ve all agreed before we’ve hit the beer store: the past three days of climbing in Newfoundland have been the best consecutive days in the mountains we’ve ever had…..”

Read the whole report on his blog,  Farnorthclimbing.blogspot.com

 “Michael Wejchert put together an awesome trip report about our little Newfoundland adventure last month. It can be found at his blog Far North. Expect big things from this youngster.” – Ryan Stefiuk

See more on their trip at Ryans website Bigfoot Mountain Guides with a post titled – The west Coast

NEice Cover Shot 2-14-12

Feature Photo: With the sea rocking below, Michael Wejchert finds his way to the bottom of the route in Cox Cove, Newfoundland. Photo by Ryan Stefiuk

Source: NEice photo post, Alden Pellett, Michael Wejchert & Ryan Stefiuk

The Bingo Pillar

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by Chris Alstrin

-The Bingo Pillar is a rarely formed WI 6 pillar of ice located in Hyalite Canyon, MT.Craig Pope during the 2011 Bozeman Ice Festival solos the delicate ice. During his climb Craig shares his feelings on soloing and why he enjoys climbing.

 

Source: Vimeo, chris Alstrin

 

Cathedral’s Last Gasp, or not!

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Cathedral Ledge NH

Sunday March 4, 2012

The winter is waning and the lower elevation climbs have their days numbered but Erick Eisele and Peter Doucette are still getting after it on Cathedral Ledge NH. 

Click photos to enlarge

Peter Doucette, Super Goofer

Peter Doucette finishing up “Super Goofer” Cathedral Ledge, NH

 

Peter Doucette, Barber Wall, Cathedral Ledge NH

Peter Doucette Climbing the thinly iced “Double V” The Barber Wall, Cathedral Ledge NH

Double V — much harder as an ice climb, especially if it’s falling as you are trying to climb it – Erik Eisele

Peter Doucette, Barber Wall 2, Cathedral Ledge NH

Peter Doucette Climbing the thinly iced “Double V” The Barber Wall, Cathedral Ledge NH

Feature photo – Erik Eisele on “The Big Flush” Cathedral Ledge NH – photo by Peter Doucette,  Mountain Sense Guides

Source: Erik Eisele, Facebook