Mt. Kineo – Moosehead Lake, Rockwood, ME

FRA Clint Cummins & John Imbrie, 12.29.77

Grade: WI 5+

Height: 350′

Directions: Rockwood, ME is on Rte. 6/15. From the South take I-95 to Rte. 201N to Rte. 150N to Rte.6/15N; from the East take Rte. 2 to 201N to 150N to Rte. 6/15N; from the North take Que. Rte. 23S which becomes 201S to 6/15S. The climb is approximately 1.25 miles across the lake. If the ice is thick enough you can drive to the climb

Season: Similar in nature to the ice at Lake Willoughby, this route is big ice and needs a prolonged cold spell to form well. Mainline stands on the Southern ledge of Mt. Kineo. It’s exposure to the sun is 100%; the climb’s condition varies accordingly. We have been told by locals that the climb forms every year.

Route Description: Very straightforward – the pillar, clearly visable from town, practically begins on the frozen lake. Climb the column and belay in alcoves on either side on shaded screws and perhaps the odd knifeblade in the rotten limestone.

Gear: Full column ice rack; a few knifeblades.

Descent: Hike uphill and slightly East to the hiking trail. Follow the trail around the East side of Mt. Kineo down to the Lake or Descend on through the woods on the left with 1 rap.

Accommodations:

Anti M’s in Greenville offers a great Breakfast with home made bread.

photo by Buckwheat