December 15, 2010

Photo of the Week

Twin Towers Poko

Miron on Twin Towers, Poke-O-Moonshine, Adirondacks NY 12/11/10, Photo grzegorz

AAC Grant Deadlines Fast Approaching

The American Alpine Club awards more than $50,000 every year for projects ranging from worldwide exploration to local conservation. The application deadline for two of the AAC’s more prominent grants, the Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award and McNeill-Nott Award, is January 1, 2011. Deadlines for other AAC grants are quickly approaching.   More…..

Petzl Lighting Survey

To create and produce an innovative product we must first understand the needs and wants of our customers during their various sports and activities.
The following link is a Lighting Market Survey created by Petzl France that will be disseminated and used as they develop future lighting products, packaging, marketing, etc.. It is important that these results cover as wide a range of customers as possible, therefore we need your help to complete this survey.

http://www.sphinxonline.net/petzl_market/LIGHTING_SURVEY/index.htm?sphinxaspxid

Full Scottish Conditions

Whitney-Gilman Ridge 12/10/10

Eugene Kwan on a cold but fun day.  The approach was burly! – Kevin

WG first pitch

Kevin Mahoney
Mahoney Alpine Adventures www.mahoneyalpineadventures.com

WG pitch 2

Petzl T-Rated ICE & DRY Picks

In any developing sport, the high end of the equipment spectrum is constantly changing. This is the case in the growing sport of ice climbing.

Today’s difficult mixed routes require a delicate touch, and a thin pick is a clear advantage. It enters the ice with greater ease, causes less fracturing, and helps ensure that each swing results in a solid placement. Petzl recognizes this and offers the highest performance picks for its top-level axes, the new 2010 Quark, Nomic, Ergo. Even with their radically tapered tips all of the picks on these Petzl tools are given a “T” rating according to EN 13089, the European standard for ice tools. This is true for both the “ICE” and “DRY” picks which are both only 3 mm wide at the tip. Originally the “T” and “B” designations stood for tools that were robust enough to pass the respective tests for “Technical” and the less demanding “Basic” ice axe use. Despite this you may find B rated picks on some manufacturers technical tools.

In order to receive a “T” rating, an ice axe pick must pass two tests: (1) a pick strength test – sometimes called a “bend test”, and (2) a fatigue test. In the strength test, the pick is clamped in a vise, a force is applied to it, and the amount of permanent pick deformation is measured. If this deformation exceeds the threshold, the pick receives a “B” rating; otherwise, it is rated “T”. In the fatigue test, the pick is clamped in a vise and a cyclic force is applied to both sides of the pick for a total of 50,000 load cycles, during which the pick must not break.

In years past Petzl had B-rated Cascade picks, these were used on the previous generation of waterfall tools (i.e., old Quark & Nomic Cascade Picks). All of these picks passed the “T” fatigue test, and in many cases they also passed the “T” strength test as well, but not always. To insure consistent quality and ratings Petzl labeled them “B”. It is important to remember that these B-rated picks on Petzl’s older tools still passed the “T” fatigue test with flying colors.

The picks on Petzl’s new Quark, Nomic, Ergo all pass “T” ratings which is quite remarkable! It is very rare to hear of someone breaking one of Petzl’s picks, they may bend in extreme circumstances but they rarely if ever break. “Charlet Steel” is indeed really incredible material. We are convinced that the excellent performance gained with a thinner pick is beneficial to all climbers and all types of ascents. It is very difficult with current technology to produce a 3 mm T-rated pick, that is why you may see some rather thick picks on some manufacturers T-rated tools, or perhaps even the use of B-rated picks on their technical tools. The picks on Petzl’s tools will allow users, novice and expert alike, to get to the top with fewer swings, better hooking, and less ice in the face.

U19 ICE ICE pick for Quark, Nomic, Ergo

U19 DRY DRY pick for Quark, Nomic, Ergo

Petzl – www.petzl.com

Source: Dave Karl Sky Ambitions, LLC



AAC Grant Deadline 1/1/11

AAC Grant Deadlines Fast Approaching

The American Alpine Club awards more than $50,000 every year for projects ranging from worldwide exploration to local conservation. The application deadline for two of the AAC’s more prominent grants, the Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award and McNeill-Nott Award, is January 1, 2011. Deadlines for other AAC grants are quickly approaching.

Some AAC grants specifically target climbers under the age of 25, fund research in alpine areas, and promote conservation projects in mountain regions throughout the world. Althea Rogers, Mountain Fellowship and McNeil-Nott grant recipient, has praised the AAC and what its grants offer: “I do not know of any other organization which so directly encourages its members to explore and challenge themselves.”

“There’s no doubt that the grants have enabled some of the best American alpine climbs in modern history,” said Kelly Cordes, Senior Editor of The American Alpine Journal. He added that such a feat was “especially impressive, considering that only one of the grants is specifically targeted to those attempting cutting-edge climbs.”

The AAC would like to support your trip, no matter its focus: trad climbing, big-wall rock climbing, alpinism, conservation, or scientific research. For application resources, deadlines, and further information about AAC grants, visitamericanalpineclub.org/grants.

About The American Alpine Club
The American Alpine Club provides knowledge and inspiration, conservation and advocacy, and logistical support for the climbing community. The Club publishes the world’s most sought after annual climbing publication, the American Alpine Journal, cares for the world’s leading mountaineering library and offers annual climbing, conservation, and research grants to budding adventurers. Learn about additional programs and become a member at americanalpineclub.org. Join the AAC’s online community at facebook.com/americanalpineclub.

Right on Schedule!

The Black Dike

Cannon Cliff, Franconia Notch NH

November 3, 2010

Michael Wejchert leading pitch 3 of the "Black Dike" - Photo by Ryan Stefiuk

Michael Wejchert leading pitch 3 of the “Black Dike” – Photo by Ryan Stefiuk

It looks like the 2010-2011 ice season is right on schedule!

“Great conditions were found on the right exit today. Plenty of ice up there. The sun was cooking Fafnir and Quartet, which both have some ice on them.” – Ryan Stefiuk  – Big Foot Mountain Guides

The Black Dike (WI 4-5), Franconia notch NH is usually the first high-quality ice climb to come in and it usually happens this first week of November. We are off to a great start…lets hope it continues!

 

 

Erik Weihenmayer Climbs Moose's Tooth

Jay Abbey and Erik Weihenmayer heading up Ham & Eggs Couloir on the Moose's Tooth in Alaska. Photo by Ian Osteyee.

Erik Weihenmayer, left, and Jay Abbey, right, heading up Ham & Eggs Couloir on the Moose's Tooth in Alaska. Photo by Ian Osteyee.

 

On The Moose’s Tooth

By Ian Osteyee, Adirondack Mountain Guides.

At the time Erik Weihenmayer had floated the idea of going to Alaska’s Ruth Glacier to climb the routes “Ham and Eggs” and “Shaken not Stirred” on the Moose’s Tooth, we had just barely finished climbing “.5 Gully” on Ben Nevis in Scotland. We still had a few climbing days left and already he was thinking about the next trip. That’s Erik though; he is really motivated to climb, more than many climbers I know.

So a few days later Erik and I, joined by Jay Abbey, flew up to Anchorage. Weather reports didn‘t look good but we already had the time set aside and the tickets had been purchased…..

Read more

NEice Stickers

NEiceStickerFinal2002
We have a new batch of NEice stickers. If you would like one, send a stamped self addressed envelope to the address below.

Doug Millen
NEice.com
48 Woodward Ave.
Gloucester MA 01930

Spring Fund Drive

Well the ice is waning and so are the funds that keep NEice going.

Remember, the server fees continue even during the summer when visitors and advertisers are gone.  And if you have sold something in the classified section, make a donation, if you can. This service is provided to NEice members free of charge.

Donate today!

$25.00 / Season is the standard donation. More is greatly appreciated

1. You can click the donation logo below to make a payment using PayPal. PayPal is secure and easy to use system for online payments.

2. You can also send a check payable to NEice.com to the address below

NEice.com
48 Woodward Ave.
Gloucester MA 01930

Thanks for your support

Doug Millen

Photo of the Week 2/25/10

Matt McCormick on the first ascent of "Hydropower", M9-, Wi5 in the Black Chasm, Catskills, NY.

Matt McCormick on the first ascent of "Hydropower", M9, Wi5- in the Black Chasm, Catskills, NY. Photo by Ryan Stefiuk

StandardLineNews & Information

Hydropower M9 WI5-

Erik Weihenmayer Climbs Ben Nevis

Home Made Tools

Hydrophobia at “The Lake”

Mahoosic Notch, Maine – eguide