News & Information 01/24/10

SmuggsIceBash

The 4th annual Smuggs Ice Bash, the local ice climbing festival at the foot of Smugglers Notch VT. Is This Weekend January 29-31, 2010.  More…

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The Bossman

Bayard Russell & Matt McCormick were crushing it in the “Dacks” during Mountainfest establishing “The Bossman” M9

Mountainfest Report

The 14th annual Adirondack International Mountainfest was held on January 15-17, 2010. This year’s event featured a slide show by blind adventurer Erik Weihenmayer and world-class alpinist Steve House. See the Report..

Beyond The Mountain

Beyond the Mountain by Steve House describes what it takes to be one of the world’s best high-altitude mountain climbers.  More…

Ghost River Seasonal Access Secured

After four years of lobbying and negotiations the Climbers Access Society of Alberta (CASA) won a seasonal permit from the Alberta Government for access into the North Ghost.  More…

New Petzl Tools

If you could change the Nomic, what would do? That’s easy; add a hammer and a spike. Well Petzl is working on this and the proto types are here.  More…

NorthFace – The Movie

Based on a true story, NORTH FACE is a gripping adventure drama about a competition to climb the most dangerous rock face in the Alps. More…

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Mountainfest Report 2010

Mountainfest 2010The 14th annual Adirondack International Mountainfest was held on January 15-17, 2010.

This year’s event featured a slide show by blind adventurer Erik Weihenmayer and world-class alpinist Steve House.  Steve is traveling the Northeast promoting his new book “Beyond The Mountain”. Steve said “this is my first and last book, I put everything I have into it” I look forward to reading it.

The Guest athletes  Steve House, Jim Shimberg and local guides Chuck Boyd, Emilie Drinkwater, Jeremy Haas, Carl Heilman, Matt Horner, Chad Kennedy, Colin Loher, Don Mellor and Jim Pitarresi  and Lori Crowingshield lead instructional clinics on ice climbing, mountaineering, snowshoeing and avalanche awareness . The weather was perfect and the participants enjoyed learning to ice climb and push the limits.

True to Mountainfest tradition of establishing new climbs, Matt McCormick and Bayard Russell opened up “Bossman” (M9-230′) on the High Falls Crag in Williminton Notch. This section of cliff had repelled many of the best climbers recently, including Steve House. More on this exceptional climb…

Many thanks to The Mountaineer,  Rock and River and everyone involved for all your hard work that make this festival a great success. Over the last 14 years the festival has raised more than $70,000 for the school, fire department and other local community causes. Thank  you

Enjoy these photos from the Mountainfest

Photos by  Jim Pitarresi & Doug Millen
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Mountaineer Storerock and river logo

The Bossman

The Bossman

Bayard Russell & Matt McCormick

were crushing it in the “Dacks” during Mountainfest

True to Mountainfest tradition of establishing new climbs, Matt McCormick and Bayard Russell opened up “The Bossman” (M9) on the High Falls Crag in Wilmington Notch. This section of cliff had repelled some of the best ice climbers in North America recently, including Maxime Turgeon, LP Menard and Steve House.

“The Bossman (M9, 3 pitches) follows a single, continuous crack for 230 feet. The first pitch climbs technical, steep terrain on turf shots and thin pick torques. Pitch 2 contains the crux, an extremely reachy move with chickenscratch for feet. The last, short pitch corkscrews behind a minor icicle then “worms out” onto the ice” – Matt McCormick

“I whined a little bit starting the first pitch, on unbonded thin ice, but pounded a specter hook in some turf and muckled up onto a ledge anyway” – Bayard Russell

See Alpinist.com for more on this climb and Bayards blog Cathedral Style

More on Matt and Bayard – Astro Turff / The Painted Wall Icicle / Strippers

Smuggs Ice Bash 2010

The 4th annual Smuggs Ice Bash. A local ice climbing festival at the foot of Smuggler Notch VT.

Big news? Alpinist magazine has made Jeffersonville its new home and is helping with sponsorship of the Ice Bash this year.

Come Join the Bash!

# Socialize at the Brewski on Friday the 29th, 6pm

# Demos, clinics & slide show on Saturday the  30th

# Demos and clinics on Sunday the 31st

Northern Revival

Matt McCormick will present “Northern Revival” at the Brewski, Saturday Jan 30th – 6:00pm, a multi-media look at the next generation of Vermont climbs and climbers, including ice, rock, and mixed – all local. Free, AND, it coincides with the Ice Bash raffle, arguably the most booty filled, cheapest raffle in the festival circuit (proceeds go directly to Crag-VT, our local Access Fund partner – Bolton Quarry, Upper West Bolton, etc.) – Bert Severin

Ice Bash Going Green!

For more details see the links below

Source:  Smuggsicebash.com / NEice.com/forum

Beyond The Mountain

by Steve House
beyond the mountain - Steve Houe

Alpinist editor-in-chief Michael Kennedy, calls Steve House’s new book “. . . a rare and profoundly personal glimpse of the drive, dedication and focus behind today’s light-and-fast ascents.”

Steve said “this is my first and last book, I put everything I have into it.”  I look forward to reading it.

Steve is currently supporting the release of his first book with a tour of the North East. Look for him next at the White Mountain Ice Fest, North Conway NH – February 5, 6 & 7 2010

Buy it Now!

The NorthFace Movie

Based on a true story, NORTH FACE is a gripping adventure drama about a competition to climb the most dangerous rock face in the Alps. In 1936, Nazi propaganda urges German Alpinists to conquer the unclimbed north face of the Swiss massif, the Eiger, bringing two reluctant climbers, Toni Kurz (BENNO FÜRMANN) and Andi Hinterstoisser (FLORIAN LUKAS), to begin their daring ascent and attempt to scale the infamous rock face, often called the Murder Wall.

Opening in Theaters in the US on January 29, 2010. Released by Music Box Films.

Ghost River Seasonal Access Secured

Alberta Canada / January 18, 2010

After four years of lobbying and negotiations the Climbers Access Society of Alberta (CASA) won a seasonal permit from the Alberta Government for access into the North Ghost.

There are two elements to the access permit.

First, the permit grants access to climbers right now.  As of Jan 15, climbers have interim access to the staging area in front of The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (GBU). Please note that for a short time we won’t have vehicle access to cross the river to the Valley of the Birds. The second part of the permit is that CASA has been given permission to build a track from GBU to the Malamute Valley, including a bridge and staging areas.  Once the construction work is done climbers will be able to drive across the river in front of GBU to access Valley of the Birds and other climbs to the south.

CASA is now at work arranging the construction of the track.  We will announce the dates for construction soon, because it will impede access for that weekend.  Similarly, once the construction is completed, we’ll announce the details of access including UTM coordinates of the staging areas and a GPS track log of the route.

In the meantime, we ask climbers to respect the current access restrictions (i.e. do not drive further than GBU).  The permit and our continued access is conditional on our communities’ compliance, and it is expected that Alberta’s Sustainable Resource Development will be monitoring the work we are doing in the Ghost.

The seasonal access is valid until March 31, 2010.  After that date the closure point will revert back to Crossing 38.

If you have any questions feel free to contact CASA directly at: chair@climbersaccess.ab.ca.

Source: Climbersaccess.ab.ca

New Petzl Tools

If you could change the Nomic, what would do? That’s easy; add a hammer and a spike. Well Petzl is working on this and the proto types are here.

See photos at Escalade Quebec / Forum

“The tools we are seeing at the show now and out climbing (Ueli Steck and the Petzl web page) are still prototypes. Close but still protos. I found it interesting the even Steck hadn’t seen or used the new tools till just last week.” – Dane

“All the new tools are now taking the older style Nomic picks. But now they are cut to take hammer and adze (the coldthistle hammer and adze are lighter fwiw). All the picks are now T rated as well and with a 3 year guarantee!” – Dane

Source: CascadeClimbers.com / forum

“Check them out and start drooling”  – pcooke

“The thing that attracts me the most, is the Nomic with the hammer…Now you have to carry a third tool for hammering stuff when you climb with those….if they manage to put a spike as well, those tools will see more usage on the mountains…” – farmax

Source: NEice.com / forum

The forum threads:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/935212/gonew/1/OR_show_neat_shit_thread#UNREAD

https://www.neice.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=51302#Post51302

Photo of the Week 1/22/10

Jason-Hurwitz-Advocate-RAS-1-21-10aJason Hurwitz leads the Advocate in the Black Chasm, Catskills, NY
Photo byRyan Stefiuk

See more Catskills action on his web site – Big Foot Mountain Guides

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Tents Needed for Haiti Relief

Mark Richey, a past president of the AAC, is helping to organize a collection drive for tents and sleeping bags to send to Haiti to aid the hundreds of thousands (perhaps millions) of people left homeless by the recent earthquake. “Used tents, as long as they are functional, and sleeping bags are fine, and of course new tents and sleeping bags from any of our outdoor industry friends would be ideal,” Richey said. “Since the climate is hot, lightweight sleeping bags are preferable and larger, camping-style tents would be best, but anything will be used.”

Time is of the essence, so equipment should be sent no later than Friday, January 22, to:

Mark Richey Woodworking
40 Parker Street
Newburyport, MA  01950-4056

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