La Pomme d’or (The Golden Apple)
330m V, WI5+
FA: Kurt Winkler and Jim Tierney – March 1980
From https://www.sepaq.com/pq/hgo/index.dot?language_id=1
“Every winter, skilled climbers take on the Pomme d’Or, a spectacular and perilous rock face along Rivière Malbaie. For permission to climb this ice wall in the park, you’ll need an access permit. Refer to Reservation Terms and Conditions for all the details.
Climbers must be in excellent physical condition and totally independent since the ice wall is about 30 km from the closest telephone and off the park’s network of roads and trails. Under good weather conditions, it takes a full day of snowshoeing or off-trail skiing to reach the site.
If you are independent, climbing the Pomme d’Or requires a minimum stay of 3 days in the park.
- Day 1: 30 km of snowshoeing or off-trail skiing to get to the foot of the cliff;
- Day 2: climb the ice wall and return to base camp;
- Day 3: 30 km of snowshoeing or off-trail skiing to return to your car.
We strongly recommend bringing a satellite telephone or a SPOT-type emergency message device. There is no emergency telephone on the site in the winter and the cell phone network does not serve the park’s territory.
Before heading off on an adventure like this, see the Your Security section and the ice climbing safety guide.
Period: depending on ice conditions
Description
I do not know how this climb has managed to stay off of MP for so long. I was shocked to not find it here. La Pomme D’or is THE classic long ice route in La Malbaie, Quebec. Many hardmen have cut their teeth on this beautiful climb. From multi day adventures to day long solos, this climb gets traffic and deserving so. This climb is a classic in every sense of the word.
The route can range from 4+ to 5+ depending on your line of attack. The opening pitches are in the easy 4 range until about 1/3 the way up. They things get steeper. On the upper 1/3 you can choose to move either right or left and select from vertical pillars to lower angle ice In my experience the far left was easiest with the right being harder.
Location
Around 31 km on the road from the first park gate.
As of winter 2010-2011, you could drive past the outer gates and into the park itself on minimally maintained road to the inner gate. This shortens the approach significantly. In the past you could hire a snowmobile to shuttle you the rest of the way. This is currently illegal but still practised by some. For the human powered approach begin a 8 mile or so gently rolling ski approach along the un-plowed road. Pass a damn and then you can begin skiing on the river itself. You will pass many climbs in route but La Pomme will be noticeable off in the distance on your left.
On the river below the climb you can look up to scout your approach up the talus, and snowfield. There are alternative starts but the main route goes up a tight corner at the top of couloir that cannot really be seen from below.
Many parties camp below the route upstream a short ways in the woods. Also across the river on the road side there is a small designated camping site with a picnic table as well.
Protection
The route goes with screws alone. Bring enough to build all your anchors off of screws as well as protect each pitch. Later in the season you will usually find a nice line of V-threads leading the way down. Trust them at your own risk!
La Pomme d’Or
Every winter, skilled climbers take on the Pomme d’Or, a spectacular and perilous rock face along Rivière Malbaie. For permission to climb this ice wall in the park, you’ll need an access permit. Refer to Reservation Terms and Conditions for all the details.
Climbers must be in excellent physical condition and totally independent, since the ice wall is about 30 km from the closest telephone and off the park’s network of roads and trails. Under good weather conditions, it takes a full day of snowshoeing or off-trail skiing to reach the site.
If you are independent, climbing the Pomme d’Or requires a minimum stay of 3 days in the park.
Day 1: 30 km of snowshoeing or off-trail skiing to get to the foot of the cliff;
Day 2: climb the ice wall and return to base camp;
Day 3: 30 km of snowshoeing or off-trail skiing to return to your car.
We strongly recommend bringing a satellite telephone or a SPOT-type emergency message device. There is no emergency telephone on the site in the winter and the cell phone network does not serve the park’s territory.
http://www.sepaq.com/pq/hgo/index.dot?language_id=1
Location
La Pommed D’or is located approximately 2.5 hours east of Quebect City. The nearest decent sized town is Malbaie, Quebec. You enter the Parc de Haute Gorges I believe and drive as far as they will allow, before you begin your ski approach.
Administrative Guidelines and Obtaining a Backcountry Access Permit
It is mandatory to hold an Access Permit to climb the Pomme d’Or. To get one, you must apply in writing by filling out the appropriate form.
Applying for a Pomme d’Or Access Permit for Stays of More Than One Day
Once your itinerary is ready, you understand the associated risks and you consider yourself ready to assume them, you must fill out the Backcountry Access Permit Application form. Each member of the group must individually fill out the form. However, all applications for the same expedition must be sent in one mailing to the administrative office of the Parc national des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie.
Each application is analysed to make sure that the expedition respects instructions related to the mission of the national parks and that it will take place in the targeted sector. If your application is in order and the reception capacity has not been reached, a confirmation will be sent.
Allow for a 7-days waiting period from the time we receive your Pomme d’Or Access Permit Application. The cost is $10 /pers./night (maximum 8 nights), in addition to the park entry fee. These fees must be paid in full by credit card or cheque prior to your stay.
Pomme d’Or Access Permit Application for Stays of More Than One Day
Modifications
If you wish to modify the stay dates or replace members of your team, you must do so at least 72 hours prior to arrival by directly contacting the administrative office of the park concerned.
Cancellation
If you want to cancel your stay, you must do so at least 72 hours prior to arrival by directly contacting the administrative office of the park concerned. No refunds will be granted for a cancellation made less than 72 hours prior to arrival.
Contact Information for the Administrative Office
Parc national des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie
Your Safety, Your Responsibility
Before submitting an application for authorization to climb the Pomme d’Or, you must be aware that help is far away and that your safety is your responsibility. Adequate preparation is required. First ask yourself if you have the skills, abilities and fitness level to undertake this kind of expedition. Climbing the Pomme d’Or involves certain risks, and it’s important to know what they are so you can prepare for them and be ready to react appropriately.
We invite you to consult our tip sheets about activities and stays offered by Société des établissements de plein air du Québec (Sépaq). The Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l’escalade can help you plan your stay and your activities safely. Don’t hesitate to contact them.
No patrols are made at this time of year in this part of the territory. Emergency services are far away and access to the Pomme d’Or is particularly difficult. For incidents requiring immediate care or evacuation, wait time can be very long (sometimes several days). The isolation of this sector means that there is no cell phone service. A first aid kit and knowledge of how to apply first aid in remote areas are essential in emergency situations.
Costs related to search and rescue operations are solely the responsibility of the recipient. We strongly recommend checking whether or not your insurance company covers these costs. Otherwise, some private companies, such as Airmédic, offer the possibility of benefiting from such services by becoming a member of their organization.
No verifications will be made as to your return. It is your responsibility to give someone you trust a copy of your itinerary, making sure to indicate the date and times of your return and instructing the person to contact emergency services (911) in the event of your absence.
In Harmony with Nature
Minimizing our impact on the natural environment is a duty. The behavior you adopt during your stay at the park must constantly be guided by the desire to preserve the integrity of nature and our surroundings so that other climbers can fully enjoy the same privilege.
Parcs Québec considers the application of Leave no trace principles as the reference for behaviours in the national parks.
Number of People in the Group
For safety reasons, it is recommended to go in groups of a minimum of 3 people. To minimize disturbance and impacts on the natural environment.
Campfires
It is prohibited to make fires in the back country. Bring a camp stove for cooking.
– Source: PARCS QUÉBEC / PARC NATIONAL DES HAUTES-GORGES-DE-LA-RIVIÈRE-MALBAIE
https://www.sepaq.com/pq/hgo/annexes/escalade-de-glace.dot
The park is open year-round. To better plan your activities, please note our business hours and services. In the winter, from December 1 to April 30, the park remains open for backcountry skiing and snowshoeing. However, you must park your vehicle at Auberge Le Relais des Hautes-Gorges, and from there, walk, ski or snowshoe 17 km to get to the park. The park entry fee must be paid at the self-registration post. Please note that no services are available during this period.
