Toprope spot in the dacks?

Discussion in 'New York - North' started by alpinistmaestro, Jan 8, 2017.

  1. I will only be in town for one day during the icefest, and was looking for an easy topropeable place. Any input for MLK weekend?
  2. Nol

    Nol Member

    Pitchoff Left, Right or Quarry walls. Usually busy but room to accommodate and they're all close together. Pitchoff Right is usually the busiest
  3. I can walk around for the topropes? Also, should I bring a static to extend? Or is there ample stuff up close to the edge?
  4. Mike R

    Mike R Well-Known Member

    A static rope is quite helpful, esp. for Pitchoff Quarry. Another good TR spot, almost sure to be less busy that the Pitchoff walls, is Lock Ness. It's a 15 min uphill hike to get there. Easy walk around (right end) and a good variety of lines to try. It's probably not as suitable for first-timers as Pitchoff however.
  5. Nol

    Nol Member

    You'll most definitely need a static rope to set up topropes if not leading, and you can walk to the top, pretty obvious. At least that's how it is at Pitchoff Right and the Pitchoff Quarry. I haven't been to Pitchoff Left
  6. Thanks. So Pitchoff Right is the best bet it sounds like/Quarry. Thanks so much. Any ice spots in the Southern Dacks, near Arietta?
  7. Mike R

    Mike R Well-Known Member

    Blue Lines 2 just came out. It covers a lot of ice areas not in the earlier version of the guidebook. I don't know what's in there re. So. ADK ice though; here's your excuse to pick up a copy.
    TRAVIS likes this.
  8. Nol

    Nol Member

    I have BL2. Quite good. There are climbing spots near Arietta, but not much selection in terms of toproping by the sounds of it (at least accessible by walking around). Starbuck Mountain near Indian Lake is probably the closest option, info can be found on Mountain Project and in BL2. Doesn't come across as a destination though, but it is toproping ice after all so... As the crowds will attest, the Pitchoff crags are the home of toproping ice in the Adirondacks.

    TRAVIS Member

    Just got my copy in the mail from The Mountaineer. Great guide book. Very knowledgeable staff. Give them a call, get some beta and buy a copy.
  10. Mike R

    Mike R Well-Known Member

    Arietta is not at all far from Little Cat Head Mt. While it's a tiny ice crag as ice crags go, it is in BL2. Hint - it's the very last entry. PM me for more info and an opportunity to check it out later this month.
  11. eddy alcaraz

    eddy alcaraz Old Timey Ice Climber

    Echo Cliffs is very close to Arietta. BL1 says there are 3 ice routes there. All put up by Tad Welch, who is one of the greats. I have never ice climbed there but I have rock climbed the cliff. The cliff is easily toproped just hike higher up the trail to the cliff tops. In the summer its just a short drive from the campground. Winter is gonna take a bit more effort.
  12. Nol

    Nol Member

    Not sure how accurate that might be for these specific ice climbs. The cliff is disjointed and somewhat wide and complex with a few multipitch rock routes, so I can assume not all of the terrain can be toproped. Some of the lines are also longer than the 100' IIRC.
  13. eddy alcaraz

    eddy alcaraz Old Timey Ice Climber

    Some parts of the cliff are TR friendly, others not. But its worth a try, there really isn't anything near Arietta besides that cliff to climb. All those other places are not anywhere near Arietta. If anyone knows somewhere else I'd love to know.
  14. Nol

    Nol Member

    Hmm, good to know.

    Anyone know good shaded north-facing TR crags? I was thinking Lock Ness, not sure if there are any others
  15. Tom DuBois

    Tom DuBois Well-Known Member

    The lines are somewhat short and not that dramatic, but the ice at "lower Lock Ness" is pretty reliable and relatively easy to set up for TR. Very short walk in from the road.
  16. Jim Lawyer

    Jim Lawyer New Member

    > Any ice spots in the Southern Dacks, near Arietta?

    Regarding Echo, the main cliff with the "ice" routes is not a TR destination. It's difficult to access the top, the lines wander, and they are mostly rock. (Tad's routes are almost always like this.) There is very little ice here.

    There is almost no ice in the Arietta corridor that I've found -- no ice at Otter Lake, Lost T, Green Lake, Statebrook, Lost Hunter, Good Luck, or Pinnacle. You may have some luck at McMartin (there are 2 really good routes here), but these are quite hard, condition dependent, and it's not a toprope spot either.

    Echo isn't far from West Canada Cliff (as the crow flies). Lots of ice here...if you can stomach the approach. :) It's most definitely not a toprope spot.

    You're better off at Starbuck Right or Crane Mountain.
  17. eddy alcaraz

    eddy alcaraz Old Timey Ice Climber

    Hey Jim. Me and my climbing partner David took your advice and went up to Starbuck Mountain. Some kind soul had broken trail earlier and we followed his tracks to Starbuck Right. Twenty yards from the base the tracks stopped and turned around. Soon found out why. Right side has little to no ice. Huffed it over to Starbuck center, same thing, barely enough ice to make a decent cocktail. Moved over to the left side. Luckily we found some ice, though it was nothing like the pictures in Mountain Project. Maybe 30 feet of grade 2-3 delaminated and hollow chandelier ice . What the hell, set up a TR and gave it a rip. Nothing to write home about. But it was ice, and we climbed it. Next time I'll scope it out with binoculars from the road.

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