Standard Route, Hitchcock Gully and Shoestring

Discussion in 'New Hampshire' started by Felipe, Jan 4, 2016.

  1. Felipe

    Felipe New Member

    Dec 31st - Standard Route in Frankenstein Cliff, - Warm weather (39F) was melting the ice underneath and detaching it from the rock.
    The first 2 pitches were good-ish ice, with a piton/bolt belay and a Tree belay.
    The third pitch I tried to verge left in easier W2-looking ice, but the ice was so thin and detached that it gave away under my weight as I stepped on it, so I immediately downclimbed and I climbed the right side gully in a mixed M3-ish chimney with no ice whatsoever. Belay from a tree and walk off.

    Jan 1st - Hitchcock Gully Mt Willard - Cold weather brought some good ice.
    The fist pitch had some good ice and we had an ice belay.
    Second pitch went through the gully in very thin ice with a hard-ish drytooling section (M3-M4 maybe ?), protected with a cam, and two tree branches.
    The two last pitches in the upper Gully was really really good. The ice was thick and frozen in place. No running water.

    Jan 2nd - Shoestring - Cold weather but not too much ice
    We hiked to the base and soloed the first half of the route. Other parties soloed the whole route. The ice was mostly good with no running water but at some points it was scarce, it had too many rocks and snow, but it was easy, so it didn't bother...

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