Smuggs Tips for 2/3 fun

Discussion in 'Vermont' started by rbirk, Feb 10, 2016.


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  1. rbirk

    rbirk Member

    I will be in Vermont coming weekend and not familiar with Smuggs or nearby areas. Any ideas/tips/recommendations for fun gullies or other routes in the 2 and 3 range? Especially if it would be in by Friday :) I lead up to 3/3+.
  2. nightclimber

    nightclimber Member

    Jeff slide, the work out wall you can lead or walk around and set up a tr. i think on the other end of the notch is the driving force area and terror-tory, grand confusion, and some other routes. My best suggestions is to see if you can find a copy of "The Locals Guide to Smuggler's Notch Ice"... I am not sure if it is still in print, but has a lot of stuff not in and more detailed approach info than the Wilcox/Lewis guide guide book
  3. Larryk

    Larryk Active Member

    Climbed both Grand Confusion and ENT Gully the other day. Both are currently in and protectable. Assuming you're coming in from the Jeffersonville side, areas like the Workout Wall and Jeff's are also in, but tend to get crowded on the weekend so you would need to get to those spots early. I have not been to areas like Driving Force, etc., so I can't comment on their conditions. As of Monday, areas that faced west (e.g. Blue Room, Dave's, Watership Down, etc.) were not in; however, I don't know if they rebounded since Monday.

    This weekend will be very cold in the Notch so the ice will be brittle.

    Unfortunately, the Wilcox/Lewis guide is not longer in print and copies are hard to come by at the current time.

    If you have any other questions, let me know.
  4. nightclimber

    nightclimber Member

    Last edited: Feb 12, 2016
  5. Flashpump

    Flashpump Member

    I can confirm this...I went into IME at x-mas time and bought two copies. They had boxes of them to sell as they have just reprinted a batch.
  6. Larryk

    Larryk Active Member

    Thanks guys. That's great news. I thought it was out of print. I need to get another copy because mine is pretty beat up.

    Update: Just ordered a copy so they are still available from IME.
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2016

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