Smuggs 1-14-16

Discussion in 'Vermont' started by wintersmind, Jan 14, 2016.


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  1. wintersmind

    wintersmind Member

    If you are concerned about conditions in Smuggs following last Sunday's rain/warmup event, as I was, you will be happy to hear that things have generally maintained or improved. In particular, everything at Driving Force was definitely fatter than a week ago.

    Some delicate features do appear to have taken a hit, for example the top pillar on Doug's looks questionable. Also the ice was still a bit touchy here and there from the drastic temp variations and rainwater.

    A caveat to this report is that we just went to Driving Force, so didn't see things further up. But I'd guess higher elevation stuff fared even better.
    rockrock513 likes this.
  2. ccohenj

    ccohenj New Member

    Any idea how it's looking after the most recent thaw this week? Will the ice survive through to the weekend?
  3. Tfarr

    Tfarr Petra Cliffs Guide Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    Ice will survive through the weekend, especially with the expected cold returning Thursday night. Folks were out climbing on Ragnarock and Intelligence Bypass on Sunday. Routes on the South Wall saw lots of warmth and sun but I expect will rebound quickly with the forecast. Give it a day or two for the ice to set up again and adjust to the colder temps and re-bond. Expect a funky top layer of ice/snice on just about everything that receives any sun.
  4. Larryk

    Larryk Active Member

    My brother, nephew and I took our tools for a walk up Smuggs today, Friday, 2/5. We really wanted to swing our tools and climb any ice that looked reasonable. Below are few of our observations, for what it is worth.

    From the road:

    Workout Wall - A waterfall for the most part.
    Jefferson Slide - Maybe?
    Intelligence - Not in.
    Watership Down - Maybe, although thin at the start.
    Raganarock - Not in.
    Blind Fate - Bottom missing, top pillar unknown.
    Blue Ice Bulge - Maybe?
    Grand Confusion - Sections missing.
    Grand Illusion - not in.

    We also hiked up to the following Climbs:

    ENT Gully - Not in.
    Blue Room - Not in.
    Dave's - From what we could see, the bottom is not in.
    Doug's - Not in.

    I have no idea if, and when, climbs will rebound. I'll leave that up to your own experience and knowledge of the area. Everything up close, for the most part, was a waterfall and not even close to being safe to climb.

    I'm curious to hear other climbers' opinions and observations. Maybe conditions will change over the next week if temperatures stay below freezing most of the day and night?

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