Smuggs 1/13/2018

Discussion in 'Vermont' started by Broken Spectre, Jan 13, 2018.


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  1. 60 degrees on Friday and 10 degrees today in the notch made for some interesting conditions. The high flow routes were getting hammered with water pouring down, while some routes that are typically thin have a decent amount of ice. So we were simultaneously getting soaked and freezing up at the same time. Adam Sherman and I spotted what appeared to be something new up in Cass' gully and went for it. Not sure if someone has sent this rig before but on the right wall of Cass' we did a line at about WI4-4+ M4 R 100' that we are calling "Stormin' The Cassle". A short steep overhanging ice section with a small amount of mixed climbing and some nice turf shots. Check out the pics in the photo gallery.
    D.B.Anderson likes this.
  2. Ragnarock had a ton of fresh ice on it and should be good to go by early this week, and suprisingly Dominatrix is making a solid appearance!
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  3. D.B.Anderson

    D.B.Anderson New Member

    Nice work!
  4. Larryk

    Larryk Active Member

    Does anybody have an update about conditions in Smuggs? Any information will be appreciated.
  5. wintersmind

    wintersmind Member

    Yes Larryk-- we did Hidden Gully over the top into Easy Gully yesterday. Conditions are variable but there are many options. The upper amphitheater of Hidden is crazy fat. Stuff in Easy is a little weird. The Dominatrix/Black Sunshine area is in Tim Burtonesque condition and got climbed by the Petra Cliffs crew today. Grand Illusion does not look especially protectable, Grand Confusion looks like the upper bulge collapsed though probably still climbable. Blind Fate area looks good. South Wall looks pretty good, though Doug's upper pillar barely touched down and oddly the right side of Dave's above the huge middle ledge looks bare. Playground pillar collapsed.
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  6. Larryk

    Larryk Active Member

    Thanks for the update Wintermind. I hiked up into Smuggs from Jeffersonville today. Most of the observations that follow are from the road, so keep that in mind. For the most part, a good percent of the climbs looked rather anemic for this time of year. I did hike up to Grand Confusion and it was running with water and not the normal amount of ice. I also hiked up part way to Easy Gully and, from what I could see, Grand Illusion was extremely thin. In the Elephant's Head area, Origin and Watershed Down had limited ice and it looked like no ice on the bottom section of Elephant's Head Gully, Ragnarock looked doable, especially if you took the center start.
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  7. Rockytop

    Rockytop Well-Known Member Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    Lots to do in the Notch right now. usual stuff is in good shape. Dominatrix is FAT! Poster Child looks good. Ragnarock Direct is in good shape with some cool looking wind-blown icicles on P1. The Prow left of Watership Down looks like it would go. The upper part of Cloak & Dagger got done via the ramp approach from the base of Ragna Direct. Parties were on Blind Fate, Hidden Gully, and Dominatrix, and I'm sure other stuff. I'm sure there's plenty more to do on the South Face as well!

    Shawn Bunnell sending the crux top pitch of Cloak & Dagger.
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2018
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  8. I confer with Rockytop! We sent Dominatrix yesterday. It was awesome if a bit scary on the fragile ice formations. ragna direct looks good. Awesome send on Cloak! Good conditions!
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