Discussion in 'Gear Talk / Reviews' started by nightclimber, Nov 20, 2015.

  1. nightclimber

    nightclimber Member

    I will be in the market for a set of new ice climbing ropes. I am a fan of Mammut. I have used Mammut single and half ropes for more than ten years and have never been disappointed with them in any way. I am looking for some reviews/feedback about other ropes. Dry treatment, overall durability, general handling, weight are all important considerations. Please let me know what you is the best and worst brands out there and why!
  2. Max Forbes

    Max Forbes Member

    I work retail. I sell climbing gear every day so I feel like I'm pretty in tune with what's on the market. In my opinion Mammut is really leading the pack when it comes to technical dry ropes. Their dry treatment is second to none. They re-invited the concept of dry ropes, and their stuff works. The Twilight 7.5's are an awesome skinny ice line that would perform all season long. For a more universal rope, the Serenity 8.7 is another great choice, but it lacks the weight savings of the twilight. Its main advantage is the ability to use it as a single line. Its mostly designed as a workhorse alpine rope for big mountain climbing, and for NE, isn't exactly necessary. You'd be better off with skinny light doubles and a nice skinny single like the revelation 9.2 when you need just one cord.

    I'd don't have a great reason to advise that you stay away from mammut cords. That being said, I have a pair of the Petzl Paso ropes (7.7) which I like a lot. Great colors, great handling and very light. I picked them up because I got a great deal on them. I'm very happy with them so far, but can't comment on the durability. One thing that bugs me about skinny cords is the need for a special device when belaying two seconds. I've been using the Edelrid micro jul with good success so far. Other non-mammut ropes include the Edelrid fly catcher, the lightest doubles on the market, which I have heard good things about. Beal makes the iceline 8.1, which is another exceptional rope from what I hear. Workhorse doubles that would excel in NE. For even more weight savings the Beal gully 7.3 would be a decent choice, but likly lacks durability. I would really consider sticking to mammut, petzl and beal when it comes to ice specific ropes.
  3. Tacoma

    Tacoma New Member

    I just this season retired a pair of Mammut Genesis ropes. Not for damage of any kind, but I've climbed on them since '10, I believe.
    I used them mostly for ice most every weekend, and some rock too. Awesome cords, really good feel and very durable.
    I purchased a pr of BW Serenity ropes, primarily on BW's reputation, product reviews and they were on sale. Have yet to uncoil them, but first thought is they seem light enough.
    I hope they hold up as well as the Genesis ropes did.
  4. pcooke

    pcooke Member

    I climbed on the Mammut Genesis for years... great ropes with awesome dry treatment and great durability. They were great for ice and rock. I'm currently climbing on Sterling Duetto 8.4s. They feel way skinnier than the 8.5 Genesis did, and tend to kink a bit more. The dry treatment on them has been good, and I use them for ice and rock. One thing to watch out for with the skinny doubles is that the super skinny lines are great for ice, but are much more fragile than thicker ropes when you use them on rock, ESPECIALLY if you have 2 followers and they're just tied into one line.

    I also tend to climb on a skinny single when I don't need to worry about long raps. I used the Sterling Nano 9.2s and loved them for this application (Frankenstein, Willard, the Dike when it's in nice fat conditions and you know you'll walk off). This year I'll be trying out the Beal Joker for this kind of climbing.
  5. cold&scared

    cold&scared New Member

    I had 2 Mammut ropes a while back that were quite a bit shorter then the 'same length' Petzl and Sterling. It's worth keeping an eye on that, although with doubles or twins it probally doesn't really matter. Really light ropes do snag more often then a heavier rope.
  6. Flashpump

    Flashpump Member

    Genesis here complaints. I have to admit that some new skinny ropes are tempting for those long days with long approaches because of the weight saving. But me getting slimmer is cheaper :D
  7. Flashpump, I know the feeling. I've been hitting the gym since early October. The skinny ropes can be scary for some of us. Check out the Beal Opera 8.5. It's the lightest single rope around. For the hit or miss and most likely wet conditions thus far this season Beal's Golden Dry treatment exceeds UIAA water repellent standards. Certified for single, half and twin systems.

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