New to VT

Discussion in 'General Discussions' started by Oakcy, Jan 7, 2016.

  1. Oakcy

    Oakcy New Member

    I just moved here this summer so I am having my first experience with Smuggs. I got the New England Ice Book and have looked over MTN proj. Ive soloed jeff slide, done easy gully, and grand confusion. Now I'm a little confused about the areas just to the right of Jeff slide. The first amphitheater moving climbers right has some short 4ish flows is this Notch north bc it doesnt look mixed? Or is Notch north the short wall directly across from the P1 belay on Jeff? Then the next gully moving right is North slide 1 and the next gully down from that with a right rising ramp is North slide 2?

    Is there a guide out there for just Smuggs?

  2. Tfarr

    Tfarr Petra Cliffs Guide Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    There was a guide available years ago just for Smuggs and a couple of the other small cliffs popular for Ice Climbing (Bear Notch and Bristol). The guide was Local's Guide to Smugglers' Notch Ice by Pat Viljanen. Out of print for several years now. There have been whispers in the community about updating and bringing back a Smuggs specific Guide Book of some kind. Would you buy one?

    Notch North is above Jeff's following the same drainage (for the most part) continuing up Jeff's slide. Go several hundred feet up the gully (WI2-ish) after climbing the route then you'll see another faint drainage on the right with the rock walls above with typically orange colored ice on it. Route are (Happy Birthday, The Rustinator, Golden Shower, etc.)

    The routes climbers right of the base of Jeff's are known more as the North Gullies and there are several of them. If you continue hiking along that elevation further you'll get to what most folks refer to as the North Amphitheater. It's got enough space for 2-3 independent lines typically and on the right side of the base is a large flat block that you could stash a bunch of packs at. Used as an alternative to the Workout Wall area for Top-rope College Programs and Guide days mostly when the Workout Wall is packed or it's brutally cold and we wanna be in the sun.

    Hope this helps. If not let me know and I'll dig up some photo's for you. If you've got more questions about Smuggs let me know. And welcome to Vermont.

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