New Bolted rappel route on the Black Dike

Discussion in 'General Discussions' started by neiceadmin, Dec 14, 2017.

  1. neiceadmin

    neiceadmin Doug Millen Staff Member

    This news has been blowing up on Facebook. How do you feel?

    Patrick Cooke
    The rap line was installed by George Adams after 15 years of thinking about it, and 3 years of serious thought about the line and its need. George isn't on FB but told me I should feel free to use his name in this post, so I'll try to address some of the thoughts raised above:

    The intended purposes for the rap line are:
    1. avoid people rapping on top of parties since more and more people were rapping the line itself (Including one of our elderstatesmen above rapping on the person who was going up to put in the rap line that afternoon)
    2. to enable parties to do multiple routes on Cannon (again w/o rapping on top of someone on the Dike).
    3. Facilitate rescues given the insane numbers up there already (I've been up 5 times this winter, mid-week and weekends, and have seen 4 or more other parties 4 of those times)

    I've rapped the new line probably 4 times now and it's well-placed and helps alleviate that clusterfuck. That being said, I think walking off to end the day is the way to go. If you're only doing one route, walk it off... I think those of us who either guide or who are really active w/in the community can work to get that message out.

    The rap line requires 2 ropes. It is set up for 60s, but if anyone is climbing on 50s, they reach with room to spare as well.

    This is not meant to be a mere convenience thing. The rap will enable parties to link routes, but requires thinking and watching your ropes.

    The Dike has become so popular, and to be honest there are so many more stronger parties going up there and linking stuff up that I think it's a solid addition.
  2. hbennett

    hbennett New Member

    Hey all, I'm not on the ol facebook soooo not sure what the community's saying over there but I'm not into this at all. I haven't been on that thing in a few years due to the cluster fudge its become imop this will,only make it fudgier.
  3. pcooke

    pcooke Member

    Just so we're all clear/on the same page. The rap line is not on the Dike itself and is completely independent. In fact, the anchors are 100' or so to the right of the Dike and in a position to prevent people from dropping ice on parties coming up the Dike. You cannot use any of the anchors to climb the Dike.
  4. neiceadmin

    neiceadmin Doug Millen Staff Member

    Build it and they will come. They will also have a different experience. This is one of The Northeast's great alpine climbs.
    It doesn't seem like much now, but it is the slow cumulative effect that we have to watch out for. We just don't have anymore wilderness areas. Let's respect and protect what we have and not give way to make it easier and more convenient. If anything, we should be making things harder to get to and use, working with our finite resources to the fullest for a rich experience, for generations to come.
    davenass likes this.
  5. Jacon

    Jacon Active Member

    I hope it gets chopped immediately.

    Anyone have any idea what "It is set up for 60s, but if anyone is climbing on 50s, they reach with room to spare as well." means? Sounds like it's set up for 50s...
  6. pcooke

    pcooke Member

    It means that the line was set using 60s to ensure people didn't get hosed if they didn't have 70s.

    50s will mean you're down-climbing some of the initial slab at the base.

    Probably a moot point now
  7. davenass

    davenass New Member

  8. Slink

    Slink New Member

    I don’t think chopping it does anybody any favors. It seems the Dike has become a circus. People rap down the route with no regards to people trying to climb it. At least the anchor is off to the side and not on the route. Last time I was up there we waited over 4 hour for a party to climb the last two pitches then they rapped we ended up rapping in the dark as the trail wasn’t broken out.
  9. pcooke

    pcooke Member

    The bolts were chopped yesterday.
    Jacon likes this.
  10. Jacon

    Jacon Active Member

    Any more details?

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