Lake Willoughby 01-13-17

Discussion in 'Vermont' started by Adventure Spirit Guides, Jan 13, 2017.

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  1. Adventure Spirit Guides

    Adventure Spirit Guides Adventure Spirit Rock+Ice+Alpine Experiences Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    Willoughby Ice Conditions Report: Tablets all look great (and steep!). Crazy is not in up top. Zephyr is out. Glass has two excellent second pitch variations. Twenty looks like the cliff vomited--big dirt smudge down the whole thing, but looks climbable pretty much the whole way on the left. Everything left of Twenty looks out--though maybe you could hook your way onto the hanging curtain of Promenade. Spied the Mindbender area from the road and it looked like things would go--though maybe not to the tippy top. The one bit of potential bad news is that the cliff is strangely and incredibly dry. We showed up and the temps had just dropped below freezing and there was still very little moving water. I was expecting a "three glove day" and my one pair stayed just fine all day long.
     

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  2. Eshaw

    Eshaw Member

    Thanks for the report! Thought I would add: climbed the last gentleman on 1/14. Everything was great (we traversed in from the promenade) except for the crux pitch (in very challenging condition). Top pitches were excellent though.
     
  3. Adventure Spirit Guides

    Adventure Spirit Guides Adventure Spirit Rock+Ice+Alpine Experiences Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    Solid work Eshaw--good to see you in the process of getting after it! May check it out on Tuesday.
     
  4. Adventure Spirit Guides

    Adventure Spirit Guides Adventure Spirit Rock+Ice+Alpine Experiences Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    What'd you place for rock pro?
     
  5. Eshaw

    Eshaw Member

    A red camp lot about 20 feet off the belay and a pink tricam in a pocket about twenty feet after that. Rock travers was quite casual except for about two moves in the middle that protected well with the tricam. Let me know how it goes!
     
  6. Eshaw

    Eshaw Member

    That's camalot not camp lot (auto correct...)
     
  7. Adventure Spirit Guides

    Adventure Spirit Guides Adventure Spirit Rock+Ice+Alpine Experiences Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    Thanks for the info. But we did end up instead going to climb Fafnir, which was fantastic!--Sunny but bonded (and not falling), warm, still, and excellent climbing. Maybe I'll get to the Gent next week. Enjoy your own climbing!
     
  8. Stas

    Stas New Member

    https://www.facebook.com/stas.beskin/posts/10155508932948492

    Last weekend's update from the mindbender area. Everything is in. Challenging though. Plug and chug has a ice pipe finishing a couple of meters before the top. Take a good care not to fall into. The ice cave in the middle of the mindbender is a gooood fun and gives you a couple of wi6/6+ options to exit from. Call of the wild is not there
     

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    Last edited: Jan 25, 2017
    bendito likes this.
  9. rocknice2

    rocknice2 Member

    your link doesn't work
     
  10. Frank Robertson

    Frank Robertson New Member

    Wow - thanks / looks amazing!
     
    bendito likes this.
  11. Jacon

    Jacon Active Member

    Nice shots!
     

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