Gloves for leading

Discussion in 'General Discussions' started by Brettinnj, Feb 15, 2017.

  1. Brettinnj

    Brettinnj Member

    Does anyone have a recommendation for a waterproof glove to lead in? I just sent back a pair of OR project gloves. The glove wasn't bad but the thumb sucked.
  2. Jeremy Cote

    Jeremy Cote Member

    I'm glad I'm not the only one that is having problems with the OR gloves.

    I tried on the project gloves at ice fest and the thumb was totally cut wrong. It was way too short and would have pumped out your hand in minutes trying to use it for ice climbing.

    This isn't just specific to this glove either. All of this season's gloves are fucked up now in the thumb. I have an older pair of Luminary gloves that I love and which fit great. I purchased this season's model to use as my second pair on climbs and the thumb was so ridiculously small I sent them back.

    The woman at the OR table said that they had changed factories or something like that. Whatever happened they totally butchered the fit of their gloves.
  3. wewidlund

    wewidlund Active Member

    Black Diamond Terminators. I've worked in them down to zero F with no problems.
  4. Dave Schultz

    Dave Schultz Member

    OR Alibi II (I have three pairs) (looks like a lot of availability on
    Rab M14 (I have two pairs) (looks like a lot of availability on
    OR Contact for colder wx (not on, still available elsewhere on the internet)
  5. Tom DuBois

    Tom DuBois Well-Known Member

    I'm wearing Dakine snowboard gloves. All the "climbing specific" brand gloves seem to have something wrong with them:
    >fingers too long an narrow - so cold, and fumbly;
    >not warm enough for me (with Raynaud's);
    >Stupid slippery leather on palms and fingers.

    Dakine gloves fit, have the right amount off insulation, and have a good, grippy synthetic on the palms and fingers.
  6. joseph_the_red

    joseph_the_red Climber, medic, dog dad

    I lead in BD torque gloves if it is very warm or ‘dry’

    Otherwise, it’s marmot exum guide gloves. They’re so warm!
  7. tkempney

    tkempney New Member

    I recommend the CAMP Gecko Hot gloves and for a warmer lead glove, the RAB Baltoro work great for me!
  8. Murphy

    Murphy Member

    love my BD Punishers
    pappy likes this.
  9. Rockytop

    Rockytop Well-Known Member Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    My go to is the BD Arc glove. I bring two pair. For warmer temps, 30F-35F, I grab the Camp Geko Lights, and for leading steep ice in colder temps I use the Mammut Guide Work Gloves or the new Geko Ice.
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2017
  10. Derby

    Derby Member

    I got some gloves at the Ouray climbing shop last winter, they are Marmot ( I think XT, forgot the exact name) gloves that have the most dexterity and grip of any glove I have owned in some 30 + years. Not waterproof though and not good in really cold temps. Incredibly sticky palms and fingers
  11. Chris5536

    Chris5536 New Member

    I’ve given up on WP gloves for leading.
    Favorite non WP:
    Rab Alpine (older red ones. New ones feel weird)
    OR lodestar
    OR contact if it’s cold and route is easy
  12. eddy alcaraz

    eddy alcaraz Old Timey Ice Climber

    Ok don't laugh! I like Kinco work gloves model 1938KVA. You have to snow seal them as they are leather. They look ugly but they really work great at even below zero temps.They have these molded pvc knuckle protectors on the fingers and wrists. Which is a godsend if you have ever smacked your knuckles while ice climbing. I was turned on to these gloves by a fellow ice climber who swore by them. Best climbing glove I ever had. Also the price is great, just bought a new pair for $22.99.
  13. eddy alcaraz

    eddy alcaraz Old Timey Ice Climber

  14. FrostyFarts

    FrostyFarts New Member

    I have several different OR and BD ice climbing gloves, always looking for the one. I generally feel the OR gloves have superior materials. The finger length for both is roughly the same but I have found that the OR gloves tend to run more narrow in the palm, sometimes making the glove too tight when wrapped around the tool. For me the result is that the OR gloves then to be universally colder than the BDs. Your hand my vary.

    When perusing my quiver of gloves to decide what to pack for the next days climb I like to consider the forecasted temps, potential for dripping water and.... toss that all aside and just pack two pairs of punishers and something warm for the hike.
  15. Coati

    Coati Member

    Just had horrible experience with ORs again (Extraverts) -- too much material in the thumb and ends of fingers. I have the original alibis and they are great for warmer climbing.

    Otherwise, I had much success and am a huge fan of my BD gloves. I moved away from Enforcers for anything but the coldest belays. I just had success climbing with the punishers in -5 degree temps. Hands down these are my favorites so far. Prior to this it was the BD samurai glove. BD does a nice job of not using too much material in the finger tip to keep dexterity there.

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